Why do my hazard lights work, but not my turn signals?
Hazard lights and turn signals use the same bulb, so it is not the bulb, the lamp, or the cables to them. Turn signals only work when the ignition is on; hazard lights work whether the ignition is on or not. The two systems have separate power supplies, so they have separate fuses. You may have a blown fuse.Different vehicles use different circuits, and it is not possible to accurately diagnose the fault with the small amount of information provided. You need a circuit diagram and a voltmeter, and a continuity tester. First locate and test the turn signal fuse. Do you have voltage to and from the turn signal switch?The hazard light switch is not a simple on/off switch. In the “on” position, a fused battery feed connects to left and right turn signal. In the “off” position, the left turn switch wire is connected to the left turn lamp and the right turn switch wire is connected to the right turn lamp, so there are 3 inputs and 2 outputs.The fault could be a fuse, turn signal switch, hazard switch, flasher unit, or a broken wire or connection.
My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?
First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,
What is overdrive and how should I choose between putting my car in drive or overdrive?
All the answers here are good for describing what overdrive does, but don't really give examples as to when you should use or not use overdrive.Most have said overdrive is good for highway use to reduce the RPM's of the engine and therefore conserving fuel. This is true as that is what it was designed to do.Additionally, overdrive would be safer in slippery situations where ice or wet roads may be a factor as the drive wheels would be much less likely to see a sudden acceleration from loss of grip.However, when do you not want to use overdrive?A good rule of thumb for this situation is to compare it to situations where you would find it beneficial to down shift in a manual transmission.These may include:When you are preparing to switch from a slower moving lane of traffic to a faster lane. Passing. Extended downhill grades, to prevent having to ride the brakes.Extended uphill grades to maintain power Hills when you are having trouble maintaining speed.Curvy roads where engine braking would be beneficial.TowingHopefully this helps.
02 GMC C3500HD with dual gas tanks, having problems with gas gauge and only using one tank. HELP!?
Let me start off by saying that the duel tank system is very complicated to diagnose. What you have is a fuel pump with a fuel level sensor is EACH tank, so which one did your mechanic replace? The primary or secondary fuel pump level sensor. Here's a little on how your system works On dual tank applications, the secondary fuel pump is powered by a secondary fuel pump relay when the fuel level drops below a predetermined value, fuel is transferred from the secondary fuel tank to the primary fuel tank in order to ensure all of the usable fuel is available to the primary fuel pump. The secondary fuel pump relay supply voltage is received from the primary fuel pump relay when the primary fuel pump is energized. The PCM receives the input from both level sensors and calculates an average reading ... Yea it's a little complicated,especially for a local mechanic(with all due respect)that doesn't work on them all the time. What needs to be done is for him to get the shematics for the fuel delivery on your vehicle and check for 5v ref on both B & C terminals at the fuel balance module 12v at terminal A ground at E & D terminals and F is the signal to the IPC.
Why do the dash lights in my car (and the lights for the clock, radio, etc.) dim when I turn on my headlights?
You are right that the dash lighting dims when headlights are on in order to enhance night vision. But every car I’ve driven has had a way to adjust the brightness of the dash lighting, since it varies by personal preference and whether you are using the headlights during the day, at night on a lighted street or on an unlighted road. Until recently most cars had a relay switch that you pulled out about 2 inches to turn on the headlights, and the knob rotated to adjust the dash lighting. Today cars have rocker switches on the dash or a knob to twist on the turn signal. So they have a separate knob or wheel to adjust the dash lighting located somewhere on the dash, often down low and obscurely marked. Look around for it.
If headight is out, is it better to leave on the brights and blind a cop with both lights? Or not blind them, exposing the fact the headlight is out?
I might overlook a car with one headlight traveling down the road, but I usually stop people who are driving with their bright lights on.First, you're not just blinding me, you're blinding everyone else on the road.Second, while you're blinding everyone else on the road, you are giving me a horrible headache.Third, one headlight out is obviously an equipment problem and can eventually get fixed. Driving with your brights on could be an indicator of another problem, such as DUI, which is something I will stop you for.Even if you're driving with your brights on to mask the burned-out bulb, I will usually just give you a warning about it (the first time). If you're doing the same thing a week later, you'll get a citation for it.
Why does my brake light fuse keep blowing out?
If none of your three brake lights is working, it's doubtful that all of the individual bulbs have burned out. It's far more likely you have an electrical system problem. It may sound complicated and expensive, but don't worry. Odds are the electrical system trouble is nothing more than a failed brake light system fuse.Each part of the car's electrical system corresponds to a fuse, which protects it from amperage overload; if one electrical component blows out, the rest of the car doesn't get fried. If the fuse fails, electricity can't reach the lights, which may be in fine working order otherwise.Like all fuses, the brake light system fuse can be found in the power distribution centre, which is under the dashboard or tucked away underneath the hood. Never heard of the power distribution centre? It's just the technical name for a fuse box. Using your car's manual, locate the fuse that correlates to the brake lights.You'll need a connect test light for the next step (you can get one at any auto parts store.) Turn your car's ignition to the "on" position, grab the connect test light and attach it to a ground, like the dash or the body of the car, and gently press the tip of the tester to each of the fuse's two ends. Now, press down lightly on the gas pedal. Does the test light illuminate? If so, the fuse is functional, and the problem most likely is a used-up brake light bulb. If, however, the test light illuminates when the connection is only pressed against one side of the fuse, the fuse is faulty. If the test light fails to light at all, regardless of where it's connected to the fuse, you definitely need to replace the fuse.But wait, you're not done -- once you put in a new fuse, you'll need to test it again. If both lights trigger, the fuse is working and the repair is complete. If the new fuse doesn't work while you have a foot on the pedal, the circuit itself is shorted out. That's a more complicated and expensive fix, which will need to be handled by a professional mechanic.Hope it helps.