Correct tire pressure for 99 buick century?
The engineers and designers at General Motors determined the best tire pressure setting for your '99 Century would be 30 PSI. http://bit.ly/1M3NFjA Sure, you can go a couple of pounds over if you wish, but anything beyond that would unnecessarily make your ride more harsh and prematurely wear your tires.
Serpentine Belt Size for 2000 Buick Century NO AC?
Unless the clutch is locked up, the compressor can be bad or locked up and it won't affect the belt at all. The clutch is what engages to turn the compressor, if the clutch isn't engaged it free wheels, just like a plain old idler pulley does. There's no additional drag if the clutch isn't engaged, it would be the same as if you took off the compressor and installed the blank pulley. Just unplug the connector to the clutch, that way no one can accidentally power up the clutch. As for a shorter belt, a/c was standard equipment on the Century,from the best of my memory. There is no non a/c belt per say. If you want to do this, just take the belt off the a/c compressor, pinch the belt together at the closest pulley. Mark the belt at the pinch spots. Take the belt off and measure the length from mark to mark. That will give you a ball park length for what you need.
98 Buick Lesabre evaporator coil?
Unless you are taking it out and replacing it, there is no reason to access it. There is nothing serviceable. But anyways, it under your dashboard, in the same ductwork as your heater core. Get to it through the glove box, or underneath, taking off the lower ductwork.
I have a 91 buick century and my ac compressor is very bad. The pulley is wabblling and it has even made?
Those cars were never offered without AC I will save you the time looking. Also are you positive the ac clutch is the problem as the harmonic balance aka the crank pulley on this model is nototious for problems. If is the ac easiest way to get a belt that will fit is cut the old belt wrap it around all accessories and mark the length then subtract aboubt 1.5 inch to accomodate for tensioner slack. MAKE SURE all other belt routing wont change direction of movement for water pump power steerin alternator.
Every time I turn on the AC, my engine dies. Why is this?
Cars are complex so not easily diagnosed on line. I can offer an idea or two.AC puts an additional, heavy load on the engine.. Nature of the beast.SoEither your Engine is running badly, barely producing power to sustain itself.The additional load is breaking the camals back - so to speakOr your AC is overcharged with gas imparting a burden / power demand on the engine beyond its design parameters. NOTE. Modern cars have AC gas pressure sensors that will stop this problem before it occurs.Once again, too many variables to give a straight definitive answer.
Labor time on removing 1998 buick 3.8 engine?
8.6 hrs. But that does not include time to swap brackets and components like alt, PS pump, A/C etc.
How do I work my 1996 Buick Riviera's Air Conditioner?
I know this sounds silly, but there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the actual parts to the air conditioner under the hood, the heat works, and I can turn the tempurture down to 60 degrees F. and it will be warm, but not cold like the air should be. It's like turning down the heater. There is no button anywhere (trust me I've had other people look too). Is there some kind of trick to getting the air on in this car? Once again it's a 1996 Buick Riviera. I have checked the freon and the guage has stayed at an okay level for weeks, It just won't get cool.
I have a 1998 Buick Regal, and my air conditioner is not cold. the vent being on is colder.?
Don't add refrigerant. The reason more heat comes in thru the vents with AC on is because condensation is happening in the evaporator instead of in the condenser. This is abnormal and could be caused by two very different things: 1) Insufficient condenser cooling. This can be due to voltage not getting to the condenser fan, it's broken, or there's a great deal of debris blocking air flow thru the condenser. Confirm the condenser is being properly cooled at all times. Tell-tale pressure readings here would be very high high-side pressure (300+ psi) and normal low side pressure. If AC temp goes down when the car goes fast this is probably the issue. In an O-tube system like yours, condenser overheating is very hard on a compressor and adding refrigerant makes it even worse. 2) There is too much refrigerant in the system, such that the condenser can't condense it all, sending some thru the O-tube to be condensed in the evaporator and putting extra load on the compressor intake it the form of heat and liquid refrigerant. It's hard to tell this with just pressure readings, but look for high pressure on both sides (270+ high, 60+ low). The best thing to be sure is to evacuate and charge it back up with the proper amount. You will regret taking the advice of random people on the internet telling you to just add refrigerant, or reading the "A/C Pro" can that advertises anyone can be an "A/C Pro". Overcharging a system is a quick way to burn out a compressor. In an orifice tube system, low refrigerant can sometimes cause the evaporator core to freeze over and eventually divert vent air past the frozen core, never to make the air feel hotter when you activate A/C. Edit: Simply selecting between A/C and vent does not necessarily move any blend doors in those GM cars.
Does the a/c diode fuse need power?
A diode only allows current to flow in one direction. So if it is a power circuit, then it would need to have power. Professionals use wiring diagrams. Without a wiring diagram, you will probably cause more problems than you fix. What about your a/c is not working?