A/c Clutch Not Engaging 1993 Chevy

What is difference between clutch fluid and brake fluid? Can we use same fluid for both (clutch & brake) master cylinder?

Its BRAKE fluid (sorry) and its used for brakes as a hydraulic power transfer medium. When you hit the brake pedal or pull the brake lever the fluid flows through and pushes the brake piston and calipers onto the disc, thus employing braking action.Clutch fluid is actually brake fluid used for engaging cluth via hydraulic action.And yes they are both are the same i.e, brake fluid is used as clutch fluid too. Just differ in the application.

What does it mean if my cars AC only blows cold when pressing the gas pedal, and blows warm when idling?

I’ll second a lot of the prior answers and add a bit.Vacuum leaks can drive you nuts. Could be easy to get to in the engine compartment or hidden way up in the dash. If it’s in the doors up under the dash you’ll usually notice a change in the airflow inside the car.Freon leaks away gradually because it’s a tiny molecule.If you need refrigerant added I would suggest you invest in also changing something called the filter dryer bottle.Freon + moisture = acid in the system and that’s obviously always major trouble. The moisture actually gets through things like the hoses on a molecular level no matter what. That’s why that bottle should be changed every 3–4 years , mostly to get some fresh desiccant in there to get any moisture.After changing the bottle the system has to be pumped down with a vacuum pump for a while to evaporate any other moisture then recharged.This is an odd one but the current 134a freon will drop off in performance if the system is overcharged with too much freon. You don’t often see this. There is a chart of suggested hi and low freon pressures as per outside temp that most don’t bother to use when charging a system.A lot of systems have pressure cut outs for low AC pressure and other things, as already mentioned. Watch the belt clutch on the AC compressor and see if it cuts out at idle. That would usually indicate one of the switches kicking the compressor out for some reason.The heat the AC pulls out of the car gets dumped to the atmosphere by the condenser coils in front of the radiator. This happens much more effectively if you’re moving and air is flowing over the condenser. Ever notice it gets cooler in the rain? Water cools the condenser even better.Possibly combined with…I live in Florida and some auto AC systems just aren’t designed to move enough BTUs to counter the solar gain plus high outside temp through the glass in a hot climate.

Why is my car's air conditioner taking so long to cool?

Refrigerant is one part of a refrigerant cycle. The others are compression, expansion, and radiation. The refrigerant is compressed by a belt driven compressor. It becomes a liquid. Heat is drawn off of it. It’s expanded (throttled) and allowed to turn back into a gas. This chills it. The chilled gas is run by a heat exchanger somewhere in your dash air system. The warmed refrigerant is cycled back, re-compressed, extra heat is radiated off, end the cycle continues.When you start the AC, you’re not just cooling air. You’re also chilling the metal or other materials of the coolant and heat exchanger, which has more thermal mass than the gas or the air going through on opposite sides of the exchanger. In some cars, this will seem more or less instantaneous when you turn on the AC. In other cases, it can take a while.Mechanically speaking, you have topped off the refrigerant, presumably to the correct amount (you can have too much refrigerant as well as too little, so the person doing the top-off should be using a proper set of gauges to make sure there’s the correct amount) The compressor needs to have mechanical drive, so if the belt for the compressor is worn, or loose, this will slow the process. There is usually a clutch in the compressor, so that the pulley on the AC compressor will spin free when you’re not running the AC, reducing engine load. If the clutch is in the process of failing, you may not be getting full (or any) mechanical coupling of the belt drive to the compressor axis for a bit - some clutches may be a bit slippery until some part warms up a bit and the surfaces catch better.If you have a leak, it’d show in keeping needing to add refrigerant. There could also be some sort of blockage / kink in a line that keeps the refrigerant from circulating properly. Depending on the design of the heat exchanger in the dash, it might have common heat-exchanger real estate with the heater, which will normally divert hot coolant through a heat exchanger for when you want warmer air. If there is any issue with if/whether the heater may be all the way off, it may be that the AC is needing some time to chill off the thermal mass of the coolant there.

Why does my car momentarily lose power after shifting gears?

You've asked several questions here...and also given some information that may have an impact on the answers you might get.   You mention that the clutch is about to "go".  If this is the case, it is typically manifested by "clutch slip" which is when you press the accelerator and the engine speeds up, but the car doesn't go any faster..i.e. the clutch is "slipping" against the flywheel/pressure plate without transferring the increased rpm of the engine to the transmission.  If the clutch is indeed slipping, then this phenomenon is most noticeable right after you change gears, because your putting more demands on the engine (i.e. accelerating) and attempting to put more torque from the engine into the transmission (via the clutch) which causes it to slip more than it might in steady-state driving at a constant speed.   If you are experiencing a slipping clutch you most likely need to replace it and afterward the car should accelerate smoothly and there will be a synchronicity between engine speed and car speed.Now, if your clutch is NOT slipping and your experiencing a perceived loss of power after shifting gears, it may just be that the engine rpm are dropping off too far before you reengage the clutch and resume acceleration.  If this is the case, you may be taking too much time between disengaging the clutch (by pressing the clutch pedal) and re-engaging it (by lifting off the clutch pedal)  When shifting gears, the clutch pedal should be pressed and released fairly quickly as part of a smooth, movement synchronized with moving the shift lever from one gear to the next. If you are pausing in the middle of the shift, or taking too long to reengage the clutch, the engine rpm will fall and the engine will be making less power than it was at the higher rpm level it was when you initiated your gear change.  The idea is to keep the engine in a range of rpm that produces enough power to smoothly take up the level of acceleration you're trying to achieve while changing up through the gears.