Landlord won't change 2 prong outlets to 3 prong?
There are codes for all kinds of things, national, state, and local. Your situation and what you can do about it will depend on what LOCAL codes are. In new construction, ALL contractors are required to meet minimum code standards and that would include grounded three prong outlets. But here is where the gray area comes into the picture. Existing structures do NOT have to meet present codes and are *Grandfathered* TO A CERTAIN EXTENT. If renovations are being done, then those will HAVE to meet present codes and in many cases it will be required to make the entire house meet new code, but not always. That's where the local or town codes come into it. One town may require a kitchen remodel to meet new codes, but not the entire house, while another may require the whole house be brought up to code. Now add in rental properties and things get even more vague. In some places EVERY time a tennant changes, the appartment MUST be painted. Other places do not. Permits ARE required for some things and not for others but there are at least two different types of approvals to make things even more confusing. With a full renovation, the owner may be required to get a *certificate of ocupancy* before a new tannant comes in, and in the case of no renovations having been done between tennant changes, there may be a need for a *certificate of compliance*. Two entirely different things, but both aimed at keeping occupants safe. You best course of action is to first find out from your local building department what is REQUIRED by their local codes for appartment, or rental properties. THEY are the ones that can help you out the most, but they generally not going to even know that one tennent has moved out and another moved in unless someone TELLS them. The landlord that doesn't care about tennant safty certainly isn't going to let them know, so it's up to you to talk with them, explain the situation, and see what they can do for you. In some cases where the landlord is not cooperative, the town may even be able to prevent them from renting an unsafe property. So get to know the building department folks, explain your situation, and see what they can do to help. Al
Is it wrong to have a a surge protector on a GFCI outlet?
These are two different devices which perform different functions in the curcuit. The GFCI is a device that opens the circuit when the current to ground exceeds 4 milli amps so it protects when there is a fault that allows the electricity to flow to ground rather than through the "neutral". The surge protector is a device that will prevent high voltage events like a "spike" from getting to your equipment (such as a computer). The surge suppressor detects higher than normal voltage incidents and electronically re-routes them to the return wire. They have a voltage clamping rating and an energy let through rating that tell the buyer how effective they are.
1953 Home With All 2-Prong Outlets - Complete Re-Wire, or is GFCI Sufficient?
Sounds like you got your head on straight, so keep going and learning. For the best approach, get a couple of pro assessments & bids, so everything from that service panel to the circuits in the house gets a look. On your own, might consider "circuit mapping", to determine exactly what's on each circuit. You don't flat out say it, but are there any fuses in the panel? About how many breakers? (The 100 amp device is likely for the whole place, and that would be a bit small, too.) Having the whole thing done is expensive, but you don't need to do it, or have it done, all at once. Many will start with a good breaker panel, say 200 amps capacity, then stop. Or keep going for the kitchen circuits, where you need it everyday, plus dedicated runs to major electric appliances (range, electric water heater, dryer, A/C), then stop, doing other upgrades later on. GFCI's are some improvement, but that money is better spent on the actual system. Having a house full of GFCI's would be frustrating anyway, as they will sometimes trip for reasons other than ground faults. Sure, pop one in near each sink, and they can stay there. Learn more about GFCI's in terms of "line" vs. "load" side installs, as one in a run can protect any further outlets further out (load side). Etc. EDIT: Got some good company here after starting off by myself! I won't assume the existing wiring is safe, either in wire gauge or in physical condition, particularly in the condition of its insulation. Seen too many instances of cracked insulation, exposing copper. Or cloth-wrapped wire w/o color coding. Then the possibility that somebody, over the last half-century, has messed with or messed up in a repair or remodel and left a surprise or two. Overall, I do think that the electrical system in a home, like the roof, plumbing, and HVAC is important enough to get it right (or very important so very right), and worth it in terms of modern living demands, safety, and equity value. Sure, with a good idea as to what's needed, might make a lower offer than the asking price, in effect shifting a chunk of the cost to the seller. Unless that's already in play in a modest asking price.
GFCI Outlet with two black and two white wires?
I recently purchased an older home and wanted to install GFCI outlets in the kitchen. When I opened up the outlet, there were four wires (two black and two white) in addition to the ground. I watched a few videos online about installing GFCI outlets, but they only gave guidance about doing it when there's one black, one white and the ground. Currently, the two-prong outlets have all four wires attached - the two black wrapped around screws on one side and the two white wrapped around screws on the other side. What do I do with these "extra" black and white wires on the GFCI outlets? Attach them somehow or tie them off? Thanks in advance.
A Question About Using Multiple GFCI Outlets?
Hello! I want to know if it will work to have every outlet in my house be a GFCI outlet. The outlets will be all by their little old selves, NOT connected in a series to other GFCI's, but with a ground wire from the GFCI to the box for each individual outlet. This is for a residential home, and it will be performed by myself. This home has already been built and completed 50 years ago, and tearing walls out and fishing wires is not possible. I have been able to find GFCI's new from 2003 at the hardware store for $8 and got some. All the outlets in the room I will be working in so far are two prong Bakelite outlets in a metal box with a grounding screw, but the ground screw is not currently in use. These outlets have the capability to become 3 prong outlets (everything you buy nowadays has 3 pronged plugs anyways), and if I'm going to the trouble to make them 3 prong outlets, why not go the extra length and make them all GFCI's? My Bakelite outlet faceplates are getting tired and worn as well, and the GFCI's come with free faceplates as well, so why not? I have not seen any clear answers saying you can't do this, other than contractors wanting to save a buck on their job, or people that hate GFCI's fighting with the people that use GFCI's. The room I am working in has 14 AWG wire and is on a 15 amp breaker switch, (which is most likely overloaded as pretty much the entire upstairs is on it - but that's another job and story for a licensed electrician). So, in summary: a GFCI in every outlet, which is grounded to the metal box the outlet is installed in and is not connected to any other GFCI's and is all by itself and individually grounded on each outlet should be okay to do, right?