Where is the light relay box on a 2010 Dodge Caravan?
That’s probably not the issue. You likely have a loose connection for the lightbulb inside the rear light cluster. Use an electronics contact cleaner, lightly pry up the contacts with a screwdriver, or simply tighten it.My 2005 Caravan light failed because I had water inside the light cluster. Because of that, the contacts got corroded slightly and it intermittently exhibits the same behavior and the problem is not with the device that activates those lights.The easiest way to test this would be to remove both rear light clusters and swap them.I looked at the relay diagram for your car, and I don’t think relays control turn signals in that model year.General InfoThe Ram truck has been designed and developed using standard incandescent lights. These lights are controlled by a computerized module called the “Central Body Controller” (CBC). This module controls the left front, right front, left rear and right rear lighting independently. The CBC utilizes “smart” technology that has the ability to monitor the current (amperage) on some of the lighting outputs. These monitored outputs include the headlamps, turn lamps, stop lamps and reverse lamps. The module is able to detect both electrical short and open circuit conditions. In the case of the turn lamp circuits, if the module detects too low of current then the module will assume an open circuit condition (burned out bulb) and the blinker will flash at a double flash rate.Source: http://www.rambodybuilder.com/20...Relays are used for very high amperage circuits like headlamps, starter, and fuel pump. Recently manufactured vehicles now use computer modules instead of individual relays for turn signals. This is true for Dodge Caravan since at least 1999. My 2005 Caravan uses a body control module and so does your 2010.Here’s a wiring diagram for your car, by the way. It’s valid for 2008–2016 with some minor differences. http://s3cf792cad773e861.jimcont...
Brake light and abs light came on at the same time on my dodge ram 1500 4 door truck?
If it has 4 wheel ABS the red brake lamp (which is normally reserved for the parking brake) will come on by default with the yellow ABS lamp whenever the ABS module detects a problem, so it's normal to see both lights at the same time. All it means is the ABS Module has detected a fault in the system. When this happens the module will light the warning lamps and inhibit ABS operation but your service brakes wont be affected. You need to have it scanned by a shop with proper diagnostic equipment, there will be a code that points you in the direction of the problem. Usually you will find a bad wheel bearing or speed sensor but there are allot of other possibilities. If you want to check the basics yourself you can jack up the front wheels and check for play in the front wheel bearings. Check the speed sensor wiring from the hubs up to the fender wells for chaffing or breakage and check the wiring to the sensor on the rear differential, that one gets caught by brush or snow and damaged pretty regularly. Other than that you will need a scan to get to the problem. Best of Luck!
My brake lights don't work, but my tail lights do. What should I do?
Check the brake light fuse in fuse box that could be blown, and also check to see if the brake light switch is bad, it should be located under the dash and the plunger of the switch should be touching the brake pedal arm. Also check, if they are on the same bulb, that the combination brake light, and taillight bulbs are in working order, or if separate bulbs, that the brake light bulbs are not blown out.If all of those components are in working order, and the brake lights still do not operate, then all of the wiring from the fuse box to the brake light switch, to the brake lights and to the bulb sockets will need to be checked for broken wires, and loose, or corroded connections at any of the above mentioned components.
Automatic headlights won't turn off?
I have a 1999 Chevy Malibu with automatic headlights that come on by themselves when it gets dark, even if the headlight knob is turned to the off position. That's okay, except I want to go to one of those Christmas light shows in a city park and they ask you to go through with only parking lights on. I checked the owners manual and all it told me was how to idle with parking lights - you have to have the parking brake set. I can't figure out any way to drive through that light show without my headlights. Can anyone help me?
Is it normal for dashboard lights to be on when ignition is off?
On some cars the lights stay on for like 30 seconds after the ignition is off. But if they are on all the time even when the light switch is fully off, something is wrong, that is NOT normal.That happens sometimes due to somebody wiring some accessory to the nearest hot wire, which might be the dash lights wire. That’s fine unless there is another source of power to the device, and that feeds back up the dash lights wire.The old Audi’s had this bug— if you held the high-beams flash switch, that would feed power back into the accessory circuit, even when the key was out. They considered that a “feature” not a “bug”, as it let you close the sunroof without the key.Anyway, if someone has done some wiring lately, that’s probably the problem. Has someone added a security system, a radio, an amplifier, or something else electrical? That’s probably it.If nothing has been messed with lately, then it’s likely that there is a short in the module that controls the lights. In the olden days the lights had a regular plain old switch, those very rarely failed. Today they use transistors to do the switching and they do sometimes fail, usually shorting out. They can be helped along toward shorting out if someone accidentally shorts out the cigar-lighter power outlet, with like a bad charger cord.
Why do my hazard lights work, but not my turn signals?
Hazard lights and turn signals use the same bulb, so it is not the bulb, the lamp, or the cables to them. Turn signals only work when the ignition is on; hazard lights work whether the ignition is on or not. The two systems have separate power supplies, so they have separate fuses. You may have a blown fuse.Different vehicles use different circuits, and it is not possible to accurately diagnose the fault with the small amount of information provided. You need a circuit diagram and a voltmeter, and a continuity tester. First locate and test the turn signal fuse. Do you have voltage to and from the turn signal switch?The hazard light switch is not a simple on/off switch. In the “on” position, a fused battery feed connects to left and right turn signal. In the “off” position, the left turn switch wire is connected to the left turn lamp and the right turn switch wire is connected to the right turn lamp, so there are 3 inputs and 2 outputs.The fault could be a fuse, turn signal switch, hazard switch, flasher unit, or a broken wire or connection.
What causes a car to lose power while driving?
In modern cars with engine management systems, it is the system itself that reduces power if it detects a problem with the engine. A warning light will come and and the engine will go into 'limp home' mode, where speed it usually limited to 80km/h or lower. Any number of things can cause this, but usually it relates to loss of something important, like a coolant leak, or low oil pressure. Sometimes it can also be a false positive due to a fault in the management system itself.All internal combustion engines require three things to work; compression, fuel and ignition. Degradation of any one of theses will result in lower engine performance.Loss of compression can result from engine wear, common in engines with several hundred thousand kilometers on the clock. Engine efficiency is lost because gasses can escape past the piston rings. Mechanical failure such as a blown head gasket can cause a similar loss.Blockages or degradation of the fuel supply, such as a worn fuel pump will cause loss of power for obvious reasons.Ignition faults stem from things such as a cracked distributor head, worn spark plugs, worn ignition coil or faulty spark plug leads. They generally result in some cylinders not igniting the fuel/air mix, thus reducing the power.Loss of lubricant or coolant will cause the engine to overheat and then seize. In this case, loss of power is 100%.Worn bearings in the engine will usually not reduce power much, they will keep working, making more and more noise, and then fail catastrophically, causing the engine to seize.It is also possible for timing chains to slip, adjustment screws to loosen in the carburetor, exhaust manifolds to develop leaks , and other minor mechanical faults to occur that will reduce engine power. This can happen suddenly or gradually over time.
ABS won't give error code [Dodge Ram Van, RWAL]?
if the module will not flash codes and the light is on it means the module is not awake. you need to check the powers and grounds at the module. be sure to check the fuses in the inside fuse panel. if powers and grounds are ok, replace teh module.
My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?
First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,