Car died while driving. Slight engine stalls on automatic 2001 Saturn SC1. Now fails to start. What is my issue?
I have a 2001 Saturn SC1 that has had a fair amount of work done to it. (I am planning on salvaging the car in a couple months but until I buy a new one I need it to get me to and from work.) Anyhow, check engine light came on about a week and a half ago. Codes 0404 (EGR valve) and 1599 (Engine stall) came up. Car has been having issues getting it to start on cold days, usually have to press the gas a bit to get it to turn on and stay on. But last 4-5 days starting just fine. Engine started stalling a bit while driving for the last 4-5 days also. It is an automatic. After work last night, it started fine. Stopped at 2 stop signs fine When I hit a red light it stalled and then failed to start again. The car doesn t turn over at all. It doesn t make the click noise signaling dead battery. It just tries once and then fails, and does that every time. So recap: battery isn t the issue. Doesn t continuously turn over like a bad alternator. I already know I need the replace the EGR valve. But the dying while driving, not starting again thing? Idk if it s the spark plugs, the starter, etc. This issue hasn t happened to me yet in my 10 years of owning the car. Rebuilt starter put in about 3 years ago.
Rumbling feeling/noise from under car at high speeds... Why?
if it sounds like it's "under" the car, might be universal joints in the driveshaft ( if it's rear wheel drive ), if not rear drive, then I don't know what it could be. Does the sound make a whump-whump sound, or just a rumbling noise. Usually joints only make a sound with a high-low pitch, but not always. A rumbling noise could be rear axle bearings, they kinda "roar" and rumble constantly when they go bad. I assume this is a high-mileage car? One way to check the universal joints is to be at a standstill, and shift from Drive to Reverse. If you hear a "clang" or clunk sound, then you know it's a joint going bad. You should hear no noise when shifting between Forward and Reverse normally, any metallic noise means there's looseness somewhere under there in a driveline component. Good luck! - The AMC Gremlin Guy -
My car makes a grinding noise when i stop like grinding metal and it chugs when i brake what is it?
its a plymouth gran fury 1985 model, everything else runs pretty good its a gas guzzler and i have to keep my foot on the gas alot because the idle is so low and i can seem to get it high enough but other then that itr makes this faint metal grinding noise like spinning metal when i start to brake and if i brake hard enough it will chug, is there anything i can look for to know what it is, i am broke so i cant afford to get it fixed but i dont want the brakes to go out while i am driving and me be unable to stop,(is that possible i saw it in a movie where she was driving and the brakes went out and she just kept going until she was killed)
What could cause a clicking noise when braking only at low speeds?
I agree with Something. It most likely is your CV-joints. look under the car for what looks like crinkled rubber on the axles. If the rubber material is torn, you have found your problem.
Every time I back up my Mazda3, I hear high pitch squeal. Is this excessive brake dust like my dealer says?
The semi-metallic pads today are just as hard or harder than the steel rotors that are installed on your car. More than likely what has occured over time is the pads have polished the surface of the brake rotors to a mirror finish. This excessively smooth finish will cause a high pitched squeal. If you have good brake pad left, resurfacing the rotors will solve the problem, and give the brakes a textured finish to stop on. Brake dust will not cause a squeal. Have the rotors checked for thickness and resurfaced. If it is still under factory warranty, the factory will pay to resurface the rotors, but will not pay for brake pads over 12 month or 12,000 miles as it is a wear and maintenance item. If you are dealing with a factory dealer, find another one, because they are giving you the shaft. Look in your owners manual and call Mazda North America customer support and complain about the dealer. More info at http://www.mazdausa.com
Why is the car making whistling noise when stepped on gas?
Here is what that FLUNKY did to your car. When installed the new pads, he slipped up between the new pads and the rotor, a small piece of metal chip, like a STAR LOCK WASHER. This will distroy your rotors and pads, and back you go for another enormious bill. That mechanic new what he was doing, and SEARs is notorious for the kind of ""GET-EM BACK IN QUICK SERVICE. Listen to me ,...take that bimmer to your bmw dealer, tell him what you did, and what you think they did in retiurn, and ask for there help, and to return to you all the filings they get out of the pad/rotor assembly. Once you get the material do to your DMV, and tell them what has happened and they wuill take you by the HAND back to SEARs, and get all your money back, and file sanctions on SEARS, like you never has seen in your life. Don't let them get AWAY with this. You were WRONGED, and the know it. So now its time for the good guys to give right back to them. GOOD LUCK!!!
Why is my car making a clicking noise?
Heating and Air ConditioningA car's climate control systems include components that can can produce a clicking noise if they fail or require service. One of these components, the heater plenum, contains devices called blend doors that control the mix of cool air to warm air as the user switches the controls from one climate setting to another. These blend doors run on an electric actuator that can produce clicking noises when it fails. The air conditioner compressor may also make a soft clicking noise if its refrigerant supply has run low.Belts, Joints and SupportsMany of the support systems on a car can cause a clicking noise if they malfunction or wear out. Struts and shock absorbers include hydraulic dampening valves that will click or rattle if they lose their internal oil pressure. Worn CV (constant velocity) joints on the front axle can also make clicking or popping noises, Damaged CV joints make a pronounced clicking noise when accelerating or making sharp turns. Additionally, a loose serpentine belt can cause a clicking sound. Replacing the belt's tensioner can alleviate the problem.ElectricalLow voltage from the car's battery can lead to rapid clicking or ticking noises when the driver tries to start the car. As a battery ages it may lose its ability to deliver a consistent 12 volts of electricity to the starter. In this case, when the driver turns the ignition key, the starter turns itself on and off rapidly, resulting in a rapid succession of clicking sounds. The driver may have to replace either the battery or the alternator that supplies electrical charges to the battery.In short there are many reasons it could be doing that .Today's cars have complex systems with many components, many of which can cause a clicking, tapping or rattling noise when they start to fail. Drivers experiencing this unusual sound may have to let a mechanic examine the ignition, climate control, electrical, exhaust or other systems to track down the cause of the problem. Some clicking noises signal a simple replacement part, while others may warn of imminent engine failure.However I don't think anyone will be able to help you here without knowing a bit more information. Please tell us the vehicle in question . Make model year ? Also when does this clicking noise take place? Thank you and Good luck.
My blazer makes noise when it turns right?
Well nobody has mentioned the most obvious yet...so here it goes. If it is only one or two loud pops (how i interperted what you said) then it is either a broken strut spring or a binding spring. Check for signs of wear on the plates on either side of the spring. This is especially common if it sits outside alot and gets rusty. What can happen is as the steering knuckle turns it grabs the spring and turns it with everything. (it is supposed to stay stationary while the column inside rotates). As the spring twists the potential energy in the spring increases until it overcomes the catch that was dragging the spring with the strut as it turned. When it lets go it will make a pop - sometimes up to three. if its a continual grinding or poping noise its your cv joints - provided you have 4wd / front wheel drive. Ball joints rarely "pop" or make any noise. As they wear the suspension gets very sloppy and can lead to noise but none originating at the ball joint. That pop is caused by the spring binding.