How can you glaze air dry clay?
You can’t technically use a “glaze” on any clay except earthen clay you’d then put in a kiln because “glazes” are basically powdered glass that will melt in a kiln leaving behind a glossy finish. Some companies that make clear finishes for crafts, etc, however may use the word “Glaze” in the name of their product but that’s not a technical use of the word.You can put almost any other kind of clear finish on air-dry clays, and all air-dry clays will require sealing whether that’s with a clear permanent liquid finish or a permanent paint. Some clear finishes will be tougher and harder than others though (so more resistant to later scratching, or to moisture which can results in softening and/ or clouding), some will be clearer, etc. Two of the hardest/toughest clear finishes would be polyurethane and epoxy resin. Some of the softest-drying or less-resistant to moisture would be PVA glues including regular Mod Podge, acrylic mediums, “dimensional” glues/finishes, etc; it’s best to use a coat of polyurethane/etc on top of those.For air-dry clays, either water-based or non-water-based finishes would be fine, and all sprays would be fine (though could go on unevenly). Some finishes and sprays shouldn’t be used on *polymer* clays however.
Can I re-bake polymer clay with glaze?
Most glazes are okay to rebake with polymer clay but you'd want to keep the temperature as even as possible, and perhaps not go over 250. There are ways to moderate the temperature around polymer clay while it's curing discussed on this page at my site: http://glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm (click on *Darkening, Scorching*) And the page on Finishes has more on rebaking clay with finish on it, in various places: http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.h... You may have some problems just attaching the new piece to the old one though, aside from any glaze problems. There are various ways to do that though, with various glues and other materials and techniques...check out this page for more on that: http://glassattic.com/polymer/glues-Dilu... (click especially on *Some Bonding Techniques*) Btw, there are reasons why thin areas and projecting bits can break off of polymer clay items. Sometimes it's just insufficient bonding-attachment techniques, sometimes it's the brand/line of polymer clay (original Sculpey the worst, followed by Sculpey III and SuperSculpey...the others are all better--as long as thoroughly baked of course), etc. You can find more about the strength and brittleness issues on the Characteristics of Clays page if you're interested: http://glassattic.com/polymer/Characteristics.htm (click on *Strength--Rigidity, Flexilibity*) HTH, Diane B.
What are the steps to glaze clay?
Usually when glazing clay the steps are: Mix glaze with water to a cream like consistency. If from a jar or bottle only add water if glaze is thicker than that.Make sure pottery to be glazed is clean, no oil or dust. Paint the glaze onto the pottery, avoiding the bottom of the pottery. If you have a large amount of glaze that can go into a bucket or bin you can dip the pottery into it instead of brushing it on. Either way make sure the part that would touch the shelf of the kiln does not have glaze on it.If you insist on glazed bottoms, the pot has to be put on stilts to keep it from fusing with the kiln shelf. Risky and at high temperatures can result in the stilts becoming part of your pot. Before glazing you can put on a layer of wax on the bottom to make it easier to clean, if you don’t have it just really wipe the bottom of the pot clean. I have chipped off pots from kiln shelves. They break, often into sharp shards. After cleaning any surface that will touch the shelf, it is a good idea to also wipe off about a fourth inch up the side in case the glaze runs. Good luck!
Can I use nail polish to glaze my polymer clay?
You can use it but it will yellow over time. Look in your craft store for glossy Mod Podge (red bottle) but this stuff can be finiky. If not cured all the way it gets sticky so the best way to cure it is to hang your peices to dry, and leave them hanging for 48hrs or if it really humid it can take up to a week and it won't survive prolonged contact with water. Another option is to look into your local hardware store for pledge with future floor polish, coat your items then put them back in the oven at 275 farenheit for 10 minutes then dunk them into ice water. The last option I can think of is a spray acrylic finish.(also found at hardware stores) Just spray it over your creations and hang to dry or just spray one side, let dry then spray the other. I hope all this info helps. Any of these options will work (I use Mod Podge) I also apologize for any typos or misspelled words.. I hate phone keyboards Good Luck!!!
Is it possible to bake Sculpey clay with the glaze on?
Most water-based clear finishes are okay to bake at the low temps for polymer clay. Presumably since you'ure making a charm, there clay is thin enough that it won't require too long a bake too which would be helpful. In fact, it's a common technique to "rebake" clay items which have been baked and then coated with a clear water-based finish just to "harden" the finish even more. (Don't use any paint or finish on polymer clay that's petroleum-solvent based since it will eventually eat in to the clay, only water-based or alcohol-based --"air dry" in the case of finishes doesn't necessary mean water-based btw). But some of the water-based "finishes/glazes" are kind of on the borderline between 200-300 F when they'll start bubbling, etc, so you'd want *not* to use the highest curing temps perhaps and watch them while baking. The 3 main "Sculpey" clays are the most likely to darken or scorch of all the brands and lines of polymer clay even at regular curing temps too, so hopefully you wouldn't be using the highest temp anyway. You can read all about the various clear finishes that are often used on polymer clay (and which ones shouldn't be) and "rebaking" as well as how to bake polymer clay in general to avoid possible problems on these two pages of my polymer clay "encyclopedia" site: http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.h... http://glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm HTH, Diane B.
What type of Clay/Glaze should i use to make oven safe ceramic baking dishes?
I know of 3 categories of oven safe casseroles Regular fired ceramics - cone 6 would fit here - can go in an oven but thermal shock can explode start with a cold oven do not shock with cold a cold counter when removing from oven I tied making a tagine it lasted 15 seconds before exploding. Low fire - Still porous - I haven't used much of this I tried sealing a piece with cooking oil that was fired to cone 05 but the piece set off the smoke detector in the kitchen Flam-ware - often cone 10 vitrified clay that can go on a gas flame this has so much iron should not go in the microwave what I made sagged in the kiln I am still learning. Here is a search http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramic-arts... Warning this is potters talking among potters. The disagreements are the discussion. What is still discussed is what potters are saying what they will use for themselves A number of people will only make ovenware for themselves and friends because of the liability.
How do make and glaze heat resistant clay projects out of polymer or other oven-bake clays?
I took a pottery/sculpting class and I loved it. I would like to make glazed, clay projects at home that will withstand heat without the hassle and cost of a kiln. For example, I have an incense burner that I bought and I love the way it works but I hate the way it looks. It holds stick incense in the base and there is a cover with holes in it that allows the smoke to escape. It works really well and contains the ash so that there is no mess. Its just ugly; I bought it because it contains the ash. I would like to make one using the same idea but a different design so It looks better. I don't have access to a kiln, but I do have an oven. Is this possible? If so, how?