What does LTZ stand for, on the back of cars and trucks?
It's not an acronym. It is just a letter code designation for that trim level.There used to be a hierarchy on trim levels, with LTZ being the top above LT and LS (usually). Nowadays there are High Country's and Texas Edition and all sorts of other Trims and packages, so LTZ is more or less an upper-mid tier that includes lots of standard features and has lots of available options.LTZ used to be comparable to the Ford Lariat trim. Now Ford has King Ranch, Platinum, and Limited trims, each of which is above Lariat but has it's own unique style, design elements, standard features, and options.
What is the rationale to purchase a BMW or Mercedes when Toyota, Nissan or Honda build vehicles with equivalent technology for 30% less?
This is my opinion so it cannot be wrong. I’ve owned 2 BMWs (99, 06), 2 Honda Accords (81, 97), 1 Nissan (72 Datsun 240Z, from 03 to 18) and other cars, but no Merc or Toyota. I’ve done as much of my own wrenching on them as I could.There is a reason that BMW’s slogan is ‘the ulimate driving machine’. Before I owned a BMW, I drove my friend’s Jetta. I was ready to trade in my Ford Probe. I went and test drove a Jetta - ok, nice. But they had a used BMW on the lot. On a whim I drove it. What Jetta? I didn’t want a Jetta anymore. Yes, the Jetta had the small 4 banger and the BMW was a 540 with a V8 which made it an unrealistic comparison, but I was hooked and bought a (used) 99 BMW 528 (I6) and drove it forever. And, I bought my wife one. Both are the best handling, cornering, stopping and accelerating 4 door sedans I ever sat it. And once you get a taste of it and see that they are designed for driving plus some luxury, you will not be satisfied with anything less. If you are numb to the experience of driving, then save your money and don’t get a BMW. A BMW costs more and is more complex (that’s partly why it performs better), but is generally very reliable - but all cars can have failures. The 97 Honda I had from new was lightly driven by my wife from 97 to 08 with virtually no issues. In the same odometer range the BMW was similar, but parts do cost more.Then, can you rationalize the image you put forth in a BMW/Merc vs. one of the others. That’s a personal thing. You cannot escape that BMW/Merc project a more desirable image. The marketing folks target specific audiences and teach us what each car class is supposed to mean. It’s unavoidable. To me, BMW projects ‘driving enthusiast and willing to pay for it’, MB projects a more sedate (read older - I’m sure some will complain), and wealthly enough to buy it and they always wear socks. Whereas the others say, I have great common sense, I got a good deal and I put my extra dollars into something else.
My check engine light sometimes comes on after 30 or so minutes of driving, and especially right after being refueled, what could this indicate?
Potentially good responses from the others.But let’s try the simple first.The gas cap.Next time you refill the car make sure to screw the cap on until you hear multiple “clicks” from it. Listening for the clicks will ensure the cap is fully tightened. See what happens with your light. If the light stays out, end of story. Make sure the cap is on tight.If your gas cap is original on your ’94 Cav it means it’s 22 years old and they do fail over time. The sealing gasket can rot and leak and the relief valve can fail.A “leaking” gas cap can trigger a Check Engine Light (CEL). What do I mean by leaking? Not fuel but air. There’s a pressure relief valve integral to the cap. The fuel vapor recovery emissions system (aka evaporative emissions) works to draw a small vacuum on the fuel tank and suck fuel vapors into the engine and/or a charcoal canister to burn or neutralize. If the relief valve of the cap leaks and the vacuum cannot be established then the OBDII system will sense that and trigger the CEL. Once the issue (the lack of vacuum) is remedied, the light will go out.If making sure the cap is tight (listening for the clicks) doesn’t fix the issue, get a new cap.If getting a new cap doesn’t fix the issue then you’ll need to dig deeper. There may be some underlying issue causing the problem. If you’re not a car guy and wouldn’t know OBDII from OB-GYN then bring your car into a good reputable independent shop and have them run some diagnostics on it. They should be able to track down the issue and make the repairs .
What does CC or litre mean when describing the power of an engine?
The term CC represents the unit “Cubic Centimeter” of Volume. And in case of Engines it is used to represent the Volume of the Internal Combustion Engine Cylinders.The CC can also be represented in Liters, as shown below1000cc = 1000 cm³ = 1 Liter = 1.0L.The above section is the answer in case you are technically aware of what is an Engine Cylinder. If not, please read on.There are many types of Engines used for myriad applications in today’s world. The most common are the Automotive & Marine Internal Combustion Engines which operate on Fossil Fuels (mostly).In these Engines the fuel is burnt in a controlled explosion to generate Mechanical Energy. The controlled explosion happens inside a cavity within the Engine called an “Engine Cylinder.” Based on the type of the Engine & the application the number of Cylinders in the Engine may be just 1 or even as high as 12.Within, these “Engine Cylinders” are the “Engine pistons” that move up and down to create the & maintain the optimum pressure & other conditions needed for the controlled explosion of the fuel in the Engine.For easier understanding of the piston movement just imagine the movement of the plunger (piston) inside a Medical Syringe for an Injection.Every up & down stroke of an “Engine piston” within a cylinder covers a volume lesser that the size of the Cylinder’s Total Volume and is called the “Swept Volume.” Swept Volume simply represents the total Fuel i.e “Air+Fossil Fuel Mixture”Hence, the CC i.e Cubic Centimeters is the quantity of the Total Swept Volume of any Engine.Total Swept Volume, CC = No of Cylinders X Swept Volume of One Cylinder, cc.Now, the importance of this CC is that it represents the Capacity of the Engine. As “CC” is nothing but the amount of Fuel i.e “Air+Fossil Fuel” that can be compressed in one stroke of the piston. More the amount of Fuel that can be compressed, more the power that the Engine can generate.P.S : Sorry for the long post. I believe that “If I can’t explain it to a 6 yr old, I don’t know it myself”. Hence, the detailed post.
How many years can you expect a mazda in normal condition with 45,000 miles to last?
Mazda is not the best, most long-lasting brand of vehicles but they are a long, long way from being the worst.There are so many factors that go into the longevity of a vehicle that prediction is a guess at best. Some of the greatest factors are: collision or damage, environment (salt/rust), maintenance, driving style and miles driven.For every car that hits the scrap heap at less than 10,000 miles there are probably 3 that go over 300,000 miles in the US. For simplicity, let's eliminate damage and environment and assume you are a calm, rational driver. That leaves maintenance which every vehicle needs to stay running well and miles which are the reason we use vehicles in the first place.Change your oil and filters at regular intervals (no more than 6,000 for conventional oil and 15,000 for synthetic). Check and replace air filters at manufacturer's recommended intervals. Maintain tire pressures and rotate tires at 5,000 miles. Wash and wax the vehicle regularly to prolong the life of the finish. Tune ups are almost a thing of the past but you will probably need spark plugs and minor adjustments at some point. The timing belt (if your vehicle is so equipped) will require replacement. Transmission services, too. Again, follow the manufacturer's recommendation on those. Brakes should be checked for wear by whoever rotates your tires or during other services by a qualified technician. I'm going to get some negative feedback on this but, never take service advice from the local oil-change shop. Let a real, experienced, trained mechanic determine and provide other services.Follow those very basic steps and you could get over 200,000 miles out of the car. As I said before, there are so many factors that affect the life span but you can always stay ahead of the mean time before failure by following good vehicle ownership policy. The thing that ends the life of a vehicle is the service or repair that costs more than the owner is willing to spend. Even a bad engine or transmission could be replaced if you wanted to spend the money on the repair instead of on a newer vehicle.Cheers.
What would be a good, original first car to buy for a student? I’m looking for something between $10,000-$15,000 that can handle mountainous roads in the winter.
Bear with me, because this is a strange one. A Ford Flex. Here are Ford's glamor shots:I get around 20MPG with my 2009 Flex, driven it just under 70,000 miles without anything breaking, and I have comfortably pulled a steel trailer with a 1973 Pantera on it. Mine has 4 sunroofs and a fridge/freezer built into an armrest. It also has a 5" tall Samuel L Jackson as Nick Fury as a dashboard mascot, so that could be a factor in its toughness.The Flex's vectoring AWD system is nothing less than incredible on slippy surfaces, to the point where tire chains are recommended against. A Grand Cherokee owner on an owners group forum said that he could safely drive in parking lots and icy roads twice as well in a stock Flex as in his all-options Jeep. The Flex is classy, has 4 doors and a rear hatch, heated seats, a folding 3rd row, great stereo and Lincoln-like ride comfort. As a wagon it is versatile, so there's room for friends and luggage, yet it is also relatively invisible compared to other students' Camaros and Velosters.
Why does the steering wheel lock up while driving?
What Causes the Steering Wheel to Lock Up? | eHow Losing control of your car's steering is a terrifying experience, one that can lead to a crash with horrific consequences. If this happens to you, then you must try to bring your vehicle to a stop at once and determine the cause of steering wheel lock-up before you drive your car again. There are a number of reasons why your car's steering has suddenly locked up including:Key MechanismNot every steering wheel problem occurs when you have the transmission engaged and are heading down the road. Sometimes, drivers report that their steering wheel stays locked even after inserting the key into the ignition. When that happens, the car probably cannot be started let alone driven. More than likely the key assembly has worn out and needs to be replaced. However, before calling your auto mechanic, try to move the wheels to the left and to the right as sometimes the steering column "catches," a problem that can be resolved if you jiggle the wheel.Lock PinGeneral Motors issued a pair of recalls for the C5 Chevrolet Corvette (1997-2004 models) due to problems with locked steering. In addition to being locked while starting, owners complained that in some cases their cars could be driven but with no control of steering. This problem is due to a lock pin that fails to withdraw fully, allowing contact between the pin and lock plate. Visit the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA ) website (see Resources) for information about recalls #04006B and #04006C or call your Chevrolet dealer.ConclusionWhile the three causes mentioned here are among the top reasons why a steering wheel may lock up, there could be other reasons. Contact an auto mechanic for assistance, or if you are handy with repairs, consult a Haynes or Chilton repair manual (or anything similar) for guidance.
What happened when you "floored" a vehicle on a road?
What happened when I floored a friend's Chevrolet Lumina SS…You see in South Africa before the time of Mustangs being right hand drive, we didn't have much muscle cars only the SRT8 and the Lumina SS (which is Australian but still has an American V8).And then my friend had his Lumina with a 5.7 growling V8 (I absolutely love American V8s and the way they sound). Him just like me also loved American vehicles and tuning them.He then proceeds to install -Bigger injectorsRoll cageBucket seats and harnessRGM superchargerUprated fuel pumpCarbon fibre bodykitExtremely wide rear tiresSent it for tuningThe result was that it produced a colossal 650kws (870hp) and was insane. You couldn't floor it without thinking if you had the budget to replace the rear tires…again.Oh well when he finished his mods, he dropped his car off by me because he was going out of the country (oh now you know what's coming). I drove the vehicle before so it was fine, dropped him off at the airport and decided to have some fun.Now let's be reasonable I was only 18 and a half years old and don't have alot of driving experience.I floored it, it was glorious until I decided it would be nice to floor it mid corner…Spun the tires, did a lovely 180 and hit the kerb and went down a ditch…I was terrified for my life….Come out the vehicle and check the damage, I was shaking so bad.Front bumper, carbon fiber splitter, the two left hand side wheels were all damaged.Luckily I owned a business dealing with panelbeating and mechanical work (Yes I was 18 and had my business). Got it towed, took it to the shop, got a used Lumina bumper immediately, painted it, slapped it on, fixed up the rims(which was expensive mind you), didn't realise front radiator and cradle were damaged plus fan, replaced that too.Total cost of damages amounted to around R40 000 (3000$) if I didn't have a business and connections, luckily friends were able to help me and so It costed around R20 000(1500$).I also had to replace the carbon fiber splitter (R9500,800$) which was painful.The upshot was, my friend didn't know. When he came back and saw the car he was thanking me for making it look so good and howcome it looks so perfect. I told him the story and he refused to believe me till he saw the new radiator.He was glad that I didn't get hurt and didn't mind the damage and said the repair improved the looks of the vehicle anyways.And yes we still friends today and drive each others cars.
Is it possible to drive an electric car on Indian roads?
Your question seems probably intended to get 2–3 clarifications.Yes an electric car can be driven on Indian roads , there’s nothing to prevent you from doing so.The problem which most people are facing is the infrastructure limitation for charging the battery , since the cars being offered at present have a range of only 110 km per charge. In developed markets like USA there are cars like the chevrolet bolt which has a range of over 300 km per charge , Hyundai IONIQ 200 km per charge , TESLA has models which have over 500 km per charge range.Over time cars would get launched with similar range/mileage per charge. The government is working on a policy to arrange battery swapping stations where you could take your car and swap a battery that requires a recharge with a battery which is fully charged. Once such stations crop up there would be a major barrier crossed in a customer’s mind and it would be as simple to get a charged battery as refuelling a petrol/diesel car.An electric car would have less moving parts so a trip to a service station would be at much lower frequencies , in fact TESLA is giving warranties of upto 8,00,000 km and plans to take it to a million mile warranty in the future. This would mean that an electric car could live 4 to 8 times the life of a petrol/diesel car. This will change the dynamics of car purchase completely in the future- Imagine buying a car that may outlast your own lifetime.Presently we do not have any competition in the electric car market , so the warranties are of barely 50,000 km on the battery , this will all change in the future with better infrastructure and more manufacturers coming into the fray.If you are really keen on getting an electric vehicle , I’d suggest you could start with using an electric scooter , check out the price on the link below: PRICE OF ELECTRIC CARS AND ELECTRIC SCOOTERS IN INDIA , the cost of running per km is barely 10 paisa per km as compared to Rs.4 to Rs. 6 for petrol cars , even if you use it for a 500 km a month , you could save Rs.2,000 per month , that’s enough to pay off the EMI of the electric scooter - it really pays for itself !
What auto will continue to function when its odometer exceeds 200,000 miles?
I have owned the following cars, which got close to or exceed 300,000 trouble free miles. None of them died on me, before hitting that milestone. I just traded them in, for something else. All of them worked perfectly when I sold them!1981 Toyota Corolla - my first manual transmission car. Over 315,000 miles1990 Honda Accord - manual transmission. Over 307,000 miles.1992 Lexus ES300 - About 295,000 miles.1999 Toyota Camry V6 Solara - manual transmission - This one developed a strange suspension sound around 90,000 miles. Researched it, found some articles about it, put a little pressure on Toyota. They fixed it, free of charge. The normal cost would have been about $800 out of pocket. About 297,000 miles, before a woman crashed into and totaled it.1999 Lexus ES300-the only one purchased used, with 120,000 miles on it at purchase. Gave it to a relative at 270,000 miles.All systems worked on these vehicles at the time of departure.The only thing I did to these cars, other than standard wear item maintenance, is change the oil religiously every 3,000 miles. Yes, I could have stretched the interval for oil changes to 5,000 miles. But why take a chance, 3K mile oil changes have always worked for me.So the answer to your question is Toyota products and Honda products. Toyota is more reliable though than Honda, because they don’t automatically jump on the new untested engine (tiny turbo 4 cylinder) technology wagon. Honda had some issues with the new Civics (I sold one two months after buying it) and now their are reported issues with some of the CRV’s. But overall, I still think they are good cars to keep a long time.Consumer Reports, rate luxury cars like some Audi’s and some Porsche’s as reliable, too.