I have a chain rubbing against my front derailleur. What should I do?
I have a Schwinn Fastback that uses a triple crankset. When my chain is using the largest rear cog, it rubs against the left side of the front derailleur making for an annoying noise when I pedal. This happens when I'm using the small or middle front chainring. Of course, I don't use large to large simultaneously so there's no cross issue. I'm not having shifting problems, per se, but is there a way to adjust the front derailleur so that my chain doesn't rub against the derailleur when I'm using the largest rear cog?
Can I use a 10 speed front Derailleur with a 9 speed rear Derailleur?
I have a 9 Speed Shimano Tiagra rear Derailleur, 9 speed 105 shifters, 9 speed chain, 9 speed cassette, and a 10 speed Sram Force crankset. I want to start upgrading my components to 10 speed Ultegra but can't do it all at once. I'm having issues with my 9 speed Sora front Derailleur and wanted to buy a 10 speed Ultegra in anticipation of future upgrade plans...question is will it work?? Thanks
Are spacers needed in converting to a 1x drivetrain?
Typical roadies. They're elitist snobs who can't get their minds around any other style of riding but their own. All of the top end mountain bikes are running 1x11 drivetrains for a reason. But you're being treated as though you are stupid for wanting to achieve the same benefits by setting your bike up as a 1x10. You want to bolt your chainring to the tabs that best line up with the middle gears of your cassette, so that you can shift into the biggest cog and the smallest cog without having a severe cross chain condition. You should be able to get chainring bolts the right length for one chainring. Only use spacers if it is necessary to dial in your chainline. Make sure that your chainring is designed for a 1x drivetrain. You don't want to use your current chainrings as the teeth are profiled for front derailleur shifting. You also want to have a clutch type rear derailleur so that you are not constantly dropping your chain during bumpy off road riding. You may find it necessary to use a chain guide of some sort to keep this from happening.
Can a shimano c101 front derailleur be replaced by a shimano deore lx front deraillleur?
Sure, as long as both front derailleurs have the same pull... top pull means the cable approaches the derailleur from the top while bottom pull means the cable approaches from the bottom of the bike. You'll also need to make sure that the LX is suited for the chain width you have. Most C101 derailleurs support 7 or 8 speed chains but will have trouble shifting 9 speeds while LX is usually OK with 8 or 9 speed chains. It is also a good idea to make sure that the derailleur is designed for the size chainrings you have- either standard or compact drive.
Can anyone help me in finding out what the best parts to upgrade a Mongoose xr-250 bicycle are?
The XR250 really isn't intended as an upgradable bike, just as most bikes from WalMart or Target or other stores like that... however... if you REALLY want to proceed, here's the order in which you should go... this is a little long so bear with me: 1) Wheelset. You should consider a fully built set by Shimano or Mavic (about $400/set for a nice set). To complete it, buy a nice 9 speed cassette (about $30 for the gears on the back) even though you won't be able to use them until you get... 2) Rear derailleur, front derailleur, shifters, and chain. Look at Shimano Deore (about $250) or SRAM 7.0 (about $200) components. You can't generally combine Shimano and SRAM, so look for a deal online for a drivetrain group. I think the XR-250 has dual control levers (brake and shifter all in one) but I recommend separate brake lever and shifter. Unfortunately, you might not be able to use this stuff until you get... 3) A crankset. Again, Shimano Deore (about $80) is a good choice, but a crank from FSA is another possibility. Products from Truvativ have been "iffy" but if you like the look, go for it. Chances are that any aftermarket crank that will support a 9 speed chain will outlive your frame. 4) If your frame supports disc brakes, a nice upgrade for you would be to Avid BR5 mechanical discs (about $150). They don't have the stopping power of hydraulics but your frame doesn't support hydraulics, so... 5) We come to the fork. You will have to choose carefully. I strongly recommend enlisting the help of a knowledgable friend or bike shop to determine the correct length and steerer tube size along with working out your needs (figure $200-$300). While you are doing this it is probably a good idea to upgrade the headset (about $40). 6) Finally (with regards to drivetrain and suspension upgrades) think about a rear air shock (about $100). Again, this will take some careful measuring, so make sure to get experienced help on this. Or... you could go to a bike shop and buy a new bike with good components and get a better frame for about 1/2 of what it would cost to upgrade... and not have to buy tools or pay labor charges! Good luck!