1/2 hp craftsman garage door opener troubleshooting?
yep. it's the gears. if you don't want to wait, many door companies stock the replacement set. we make lots of money replacing those gears. god bless sears lol. one little hint: you don't have to replace all the gears. just the big one that is stripped. leave the smaller gear on the motor shaft alone. it doesn't wear out like the bigger flat one. for the bigger flat one, you can just remove the assembly from the top. 3 (5/16") screws, remove a tiny gear at the bottom of the shaft, and it slides right up and out. try to mark the chain where it sat on the sprocket, use a paer clip or small wire) so you won't have too much trouble resetting your travel limits. if the unit is more than 5 yrs old, i would actually recommend repairing it rather than replacing. i'm seeing alot of shoddy work and weak electronics in the latest openers from them. (you just can't sell the cheapest opener on the market without cutting corners somewhere) and remember to use the lube supplied with the kit or you might regret it :)
Is my garage door opener motor shot?
Recently I put my garage door opener in a desk drawer and my daughter found it and started playing with it. The problem is that I had the door locked so the door didn't actually go up - but I think it did put a strain on the motor. It is a genie chain drive opener that is mounted just above the garage door to a 2x4 block that cracked under the stress of her playing with the remote. Now when I open the door I have to help it up and when I lower it I can see the chain drive guide flex due to the cracked mounting block. My question is - once I replace the cracked block will that relieve the stress or is my motor shot for good? PS - It's a rental house so I really don't want to have to replace the door opener, but if I have to I have to.
What if my garage door opener makes a humming noise but doesn't open or close?
I have a "Sears" Craftsman 1/3 horsepower garage door opener, and after a while it has been doing this. It makes a humming noise, but doesn' t open or close when I press the button on the wall. The sensors are alligned correctly and I took the cover off of it, but I don't know what could possibly be wrong with it. Can it be the motor? Please help.
Garage Door Will Not Move, Motor Just Hums?
It appears the trolley is trying to go beyond the point where it should connect to the door arm/manual handle when I try to close it. I've tried adjusting the limits, but that doesn't work. I've also pulled the chain off, let the sprocket rotate to what should be the closed position, then replace the chain and try to open the door. However, the chain still seems to want to only go in one direction after I put it back on. Hmmm! It's a Lift-Master, Model 985 1/3 HP and is 10 years old.
I have an Sears garage door opener model #41A3066.?
If the chain does not move at all look for a worn out drive gear inside the powerhead. Be sure to unplug the opener before removing the case. If it is the gear replace the whole driveshaft, not just the two gears. Not a difficult job for the mechanically inclined. Replacing the shaft and gears is actually easier than the gears alone.
Sears Garage Door Opener only hums?
If there is no stop bolt in the track the trolley might have jammed against the powerhead. In that case fixing it is even more fun than the bolt thingy. (which is there to prevent the trolley from jamming against the powerhead) If it is against the powerhead instead of the bolt first unplug the opener Get a friend to help you. Try pulling on the disconnect. If it will not disconnect get your friend to catch the door as you give the red cord a real good jerk. When you do this if it disconnects the light bulb will blow and the door might get enough momentum to crash down if not caught. Then try the opener. If it still hums unplug the thing and remove the metal case. If everything looks OK(no plastic shavings) you must turn the motor shaft between the motor and the worm gear with a small pliers ot 6" waterpump wrench. Which way cannot recall but you need to move the trolley away from the case. If it works great but if it rejams something else is wrong. Like Chris said circuit board or maybe a limit problem. If the trolley is not jammed against either one of these you might have a bad capacitor or RPM sensor but these are long shots. Please email me what you find, I never get feedback and it helps.
Why does my Garage door opener hum twice then stop?
if the motor just hums and is not trying to turn sounds like the carriage assembly my be jambed against the stop bolt in the rail which is about 4" in front of the light cover. if the opener is a sears or liftmaster they are notorious for doing this. the limit fingers get dirty and the opener has to travel further to push harder on the fingers to make contact to shut the opener off. next thing happens is it travels so far that the carriage assembly jambs against the stop bolt in the rail. the only way to fix this is unplug you opener, remove cover on opener, on the motor end is about 3/4" piece of the motor shaft sticking out, turn it to run the carriage assembly down about 6". take an amery board (finger nail file) and clean up the limit fingers. make sure they are close to touching. plug opener back in and try it. you may also want to check your motor starter capacitor. it's what give the motor the surge of power to get moving. it's the round cylinder looking thing about 2" in diameter and 3-4" long.
My garage door opener is making a clicking noise, not responding when I push the button to open it. HELP!!?
Something is seriously wrong with your door and it should be looked at by a professional. A common misconception about garage door operators are that they carry the weight of your door, when in all actuality your springs are what carry ALL the weight of your door. It may not look like they are broken, but your springs may have lost some tension. When your door is calibrated correctly you should be able to open and close your door manually using only two fingers. Your door should also stop and balance half way opened. To re-engage your door you pull the red rope back toward the motor operator so that the carriage is parallel to the floor. (The moveable black piece that is connected to the red rope) Then run your motor operator. It should re-engage. However, I do not recommending reconnecting your motor operator until your door is serviced, otherwise you run the risk of causing more unnessicary damage. The reson your motor operator is clicking could be a couple of reasons: First check your infra-red eyes at the bottom of your door. They are the black boxes that are usually located approximatly 6-8 inches from the ground mounted on the wall next to the track. (Sometimes connected to the track) Each should have a light, it is ok if they are different colors. Each light should be on and solid. If one is flashing slightly adjust your eyes so that both lights are on and solid. Also check to make sure the wires are securely connected to the back and that there are no cobwebs or dusted that have collected around the lenses. If your inra-red eyes appear to be in good condition your operator maybe engaged to your door. The operator maybe clicking because the door is too heavy to open. When your door is too heavy, it sends a signal to the operator that it is hitting something, and automatically stops, causing the lights on the operator to flash, or for you to hear a clicking noise. Most door companys do offer free estimates when they are in the area, and I highly recommend you take advantage of this service! Good luck, and I hope this helps!
Furnace makes humming noise, but doesn't heat the house?
Looks like people are missing the point you already confirmed that the Fan operates for sure in the ON position. Is there proper fuel supply coming into residence ? Gas or Oil heat ? If gas furnace, the exhaust blower (a secondary small blower fan that pushes the exhaust to outside venting) may have gone bad. If this does not engage during the furnace's start up (each time) there will be no fire = no heat = the furnace will not continue into the normal heating cycle. If you do choose to 'test run' your AC and it's below 50 degrees Farenheit (outside) I would not run it more than 10 minutes. If gas furnace, have a properly trained tech check the gas line pressures at the meter, and before and after the metering device in the furnace. Likewise, if oil furnace, these need to be properly maintained to have correct oil pressure, a clean nozzle and other things. Hope that helps !
Bad Carriage on Garage Door Opener?
I have an old Genie screw drive garage door opener that recently quit working. It will go down okay, but will make a grinding sound when trying to go up. It won't go up at all, but if I unlatch it and manually open it to the top and re-latch it, it will go down without any problems. Is this a problem with the carriage going bad, or is the entire unit shot? A replacement carriage is only $20, but I don't want to buy it if it isn't going to help. Thanks.