I have a Jbl amp and it stays in protect mode what is wrong with it?
the amp is bad and needs repair when jbl amps over heat too much or have a bad ground they go into permanent protection. you might want to check with jbl you can get there number on there website it should still be under warranty. if it is new take it back to where you bought it they might not replace it if you installed it yourself but they will give you the info you need. even if it is out of warranty jbl will still repair it just not for free. good luck.
Amp keeps shorting out?
I have an 1800W boss amp and it runs to four speakers and two subs. After a minute or so the amp goes into protect mode, but when just my subwoofer Rca's are plugged in there is no sound. When just the rear speaker Rca's are plugged in they sound great and amp doesn't go into protect, but when just the front Rca's are plugged in they sound bad and make an annoying buzzing and whining noise and the subs play also even though they are hooked up and the amp goes into protect. I know something with the speakers or subs are shorting out because it doesn't go into protect when all RCA plugs are unhooked. Could a speaker wire that's touching the grounded frame cause all of this? Because my front speaker wire wasn't long enough to reach front to back so I E taped two together to double the length and idk if it pulled somewhat apart and is now touching the frame and causing a short. If anyone needs more info let me know.
Why is my amp going into protection?!?
It's one of three things. The amp, the wiring or the speaker (sub). Check there's no strands of wire touching at the sub and at the amp. Check that the sub winding isn't shorting intermittently. If you have a multimeter measure the resistance across the speaker connectors while paging the speaker cone in and out 'gently' the resistance should stay the same. And to check the amp try driving your speakers (if it's a two channel bridged into one for the sub) or borrow a known good sub to trial on ya amp. If its going into protect mode its overloading. Could be an old amp, shorting sub or shorting wiring. Not the power and earth. It's the driven output signal overloading that causes the power circuitry to protect the mosfet transistors from melting down! The main fuse and fuse on the amp provide input protection. If they haven't blown then the amp isn't drawing to much current and therefore blowing its fuse.
Amp going into protection mode when connected to subwoofer?
Try and go through this little fault finder. Hope it helps? Ensure you have a good ground (- Earth). Description of the PROTECT system built into amplifiers........ The diagnostic system will shut down the amplifier, until reset by turning the head unit off, and back on. This state of affairs will be indicated by the front panel PROTECT LED lighting up under the following conditions: 1 - A short circuit on the loudspeaker leads. 2 - An internal amplifier fault that causes a DC offset on the loudspeaker output. Should the amplifier go into protect mode, simply disconnect all RCA and speaker leads, while keeping +12 volt, power ground and remote leads connected. 1. Now turn the amplifier back on, and if the diagnostic LED lights, the amplifier has an internal fault. 2. If not, plug the RCA cables back, and reset the amplifier. If it goes into diagnostic now, the fault lies in the input, either with bad cables or source unit. 3. If the amplifier seems fine with RCA cables plugged in, connect the speakers, one at a time, and if one of the speakers or its wiring is faulty, it will activate the diagnostic system.
What should I do when my amplifier goes into protect mode? I checked all the connections such as the ground, power and speaker cables. When I turn the key to accessories, it makes a popping sound and then the protect light comes on.
Protect mode as the name implies is to protect the speakers from damage due to a problem detected within the amplifier. If nothing exterior to the amp has changed, it is likely that internal components have failed. The most common failure is to the output transistors that comprise the last stage of amplification of the sound. Without knowing the make or model of the amp, I can’t provide any details, but based upon your description, I would suspect that you have a problem with the pre-amp section that is allowing DC current to flow into the output stages. This is detected and is what causes the “pop” you hear. DC current is a bad thing for speakers. Speakers are coils that move because of AC signals (sound) that effect the magnetic field around in the speaker coil (voice coil) which in turn make the cone move and recreate sound. If there is DC current present, the coils heat up and will eventually fail.The “pop” is this DC current that passes through before the protection circuit detects it and shuts down the output section.This unit should be taken to a repair shop. If the pre-amp section is causing the problem, the cost will be minimal as those parts are not expensive. The output transistors can cost anywhere form $8 each to $25 each and are replaced in pairs.Dan (30+ years of electronics repair)
What would cause my AMP to smoke?
Speaker smoking: the speaker cannot handle the power that the amplifier is outputting. In the case of a guitar amplifier, this happens easily because the amplifier could be rated at 25 W and the speaker could also be rated at 25 W, but when you overdrive the amplifier, you’re essentially doubling the output power, so you’re overpowering the speaker causing it to smoke, and then fail.An amplifier can blow (causing smoke) in a number of ways:The output is shorted - this drives as much current as the power supply can output (often > 400A) through the output transistors, causing them to fail. The way a MOSFET fails is different to how a BJT fails, and BJT’s fail 100% of the time with a shorted output, if there are no measures taken by the manufacturer to prevent this (and in those cases, they fail anyway).The biasing circuit could get old, causing an increasing bias current in the output stage, eventually leading to failure. This means that something gets old and causes the amplifier to heat up and fail.The amplifier is operated in extreme heat - this prevents the heatsinks from dissipating enough heat, and the amplifier can easily fail.Valves tend to burn out like light bulbs. They can be quite fragile, so if are bumped just right, can fail at the next turn on.Other than this, there are often component failures where a component isn’t sufficiently spec’d, say for example a 1/4 W resistor operating at 1/4 W all the time, or a 16 V capacitor operating at 16 V all the time. Or a transistor operating at high temperatures all the time. These components will eventually fail, causing smoking of some sort.I’ve encountered an issue which happened on a set of Creative Gigaworks (S750) where the glue used to hold components together became conductive when heated up. This caused a lot of S750’s to fail. However, it was possible to repair the fault.
Ok so i have a 1200 watt sony explode amp that keep's going into protection mode what to do?
This is too little information to come to any conclusion. Could be a number of things, maybe provide us with more information and we can assist.
Do you have a car stereo installation gone wrong story?
I once fitted a stereo to a 1956 Morris Minor belonging to a friend. I knew the chassis was positive earth, so fitted the unit into an insulated plastic console. I fitted rear parcel shelf speakers, ran the wiring under the carpet and hooked the electrical feed up to the ignition switch and battery using correct fuseholders and Lucar connectors.Cassettes played absolutely fine, the system sounded good and all was well in the world. I set the clock to the correct time and tweaked the equaliser settings to my friend’s liking.The next thing she asked me was to tune in several of her favourite radio stations and program them into the memory presets. Radio 1 on button 1, Radio 2 on button 2, Radio 4 on button 4. Presets 3, 6 and 6 were to be allocated to a few local commercial stations as she wasn’t really a classical buff so had no need for Radio 3.Hold up. No antenna!I had a spare manual telescopic antenna but didn’t want to drill the front wing and spoil what was a ‘classic car’, so I temporarily hooked the antenna up just to test the radio. I lashed the antenna base to ground at a convenient point on the metalwork, and then plugged the antenna into the stereo. Bang! Popped fuse.It took me nearly a whole packet of fuses and a lot of head scratching until I twigged that the antenna was ‘grounded’ to the positive chassis and the casing of the radio was connected directly to negative. Plugging in the antenna jack shorted out the supply lines.Problem solved by fitting an isolated screen-mounted dipole antenna behind the rear view mirror.A few years later I was asked to fit a radio for another friend into a similar car of similar vintage. I repeated my previous installation, step for step, wiring the positive feeds to the chassis of the car and running the isolated negative back to the battery. Bang! This time a fuse blew but not before the stereo had produced some smoke.Some non-purist had ‘restored’ the car at some point, but instead of retaining the original positive earth system with dynamo, had fitted a negative earth alternator and repolarised the starter motor. It was now a conventional negative earth vehicle!S***, as they say, happens!
Why does the red protect light comes on my kicker zx 750.1?
If they are 4-ohm DVC and you have them both wired down to 2 ohms, AND you have both sets connected to the amp, your final load is 1-ohm. The Kicker ZX750.1 is not a 1-ohm stable amplifier and is going into protect mode to prevent a catastrophic failure. You need to wire it like this: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wo... Unfortunately this amplifier is not a good match for these subs. It will only put out 375 watts RMS into a 4-ohm load and your subs want 1200 watts. I suggest you buy a 1-ohm stable amplifier that can put out 1200 watts @ 1ohm and then wire them how you have them currently, which should look similar to this: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wo... Heres some amps that will really power those subs well: Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2354... AQ1200D http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26 MTX Audio JackHammer JH1200 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14843_MTX+Audio+JackHammer+JH1200.html Polk Audio PA1200.1 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13580_Polk+Audio+PA1200.1+-PA+1200.1-.html MB Quart Q1.1500D http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_30078_MB+Quart+Q1.1500D.html Good Luck. EDIT: DO NOT BUY a Kicker ZX1000.1. This amp is also not 1-ohm stable, so you will need to wire to 4-ohms. This amp only puts out 500 watts @ 4-ohms... thats less than half what your subs want.