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My Toyota Corolla Got A Clunk When Shift In Reverse

Why does my car jerk slightly when shifting into reverse?

all automatics do this. Regardless of gear the magnitude, the jerk is a function of drivetrain and suspension slop, clutch pressure and condition, clutch engagement setting, transmission fluid properties, idle speed.If the jerk is extreme and changes engine RPM by more than 100RPM, you certainly have a problem. beware, it’s easy to get either ripped off or spend heavily. Start by checking idle speed, then inspecting/changing fluid, then inspecting suspension. then check the transmission and drivetrain for slop, wear, damage, starting at a driveshaft shop.Your low mileage car could suffer from the hands of an abusive and jerky driver, a driver who spent long hours shearing transmission fluid stopped in traffic, or a transmission defect.Without mechanical service, you can reduce the jerk by not stepping on the brake as you change gears, and shifting to neutral every time you must idle for more than 20 seconds.

How do you put a 2004 Toyota Corolla in neutral when the battery is dead?

If your Owner's Manual doesn't tell you where the shift lever override button is to get your automatic out of park and into neutral without turning the car on... Then it'll probably tell you that you need to jumpstart/boost your dead 12v battery (or replace it) to get the car to start so that you can change the gear into neutral.

Why does my car momentarily lose power after shifting gears?

You've asked several questions here...and also given some information that may have an impact on the answers you might get.   You mention that the clutch is about to "go".  If this is the case, it is typically manifested by "clutch slip" which is when you press the accelerator and the engine speeds up, but the car doesn't go any faster..i.e. the clutch is "slipping" against the flywheel/pressure plate without transferring the increased rpm of the engine to the transmission.  If the clutch is indeed slipping, then this phenomenon is most noticeable right after you change gears, because your putting more demands on the engine (i.e. accelerating) and attempting to put more torque from the engine into the transmission (via the clutch) which causes it to slip more than it might in steady-state driving at a constant speed.   If you are experiencing a slipping clutch you most likely need to replace it and afterward the car should accelerate smoothly and there will be a synchronicity between engine speed and car speed.Now, if your clutch is NOT slipping and your experiencing a perceived loss of power after shifting gears, it may just be that the engine rpm are dropping off too far before you reengage the clutch and resume acceleration.  If this is the case, you may be taking too much time between disengaging the clutch (by pressing the clutch pedal) and re-engaging it (by lifting off the clutch pedal)  When shifting gears, the clutch pedal should be pressed and released fairly quickly as part of a smooth, movement synchronized with moving the shift lever from one gear to the next. If you are pausing in the middle of the shift, or taking too long to reengage the clutch, the engine rpm will fall and the engine will be making less power than it was at the higher rpm level it was when you initiated your gear change.  The idea is to keep the engine in a range of rpm that produces enough power to smoothly take up the level of acceleration you're trying to achieve while changing up through the gears.

Why is my car making a clicking noise but not starting?

This is a common problem that can happen to a lot of cars. And there’s 2 main problems that are related to when your car makes a clicking noise but doesn’t start.(1) Faulty starter. The starter helps with igniting the vehicle, so if you’ve ruled out that the battery is fine and the car still doesn’t start and it makes a clicking sound with the lights on, then it’s likely a faulty starter and you’ll need a starter replacement(2) Ignition switch. If you know your battery is working properly, but your car doesn’t turn over on the first few tries, you might have a problem with the ignition switch. You can try to narrow down the cause of your issue by turning on your headlights. This is because your car's battery controls your headlights and dashboard, and if it's the case that they turn on your engine isn't able to start start, then a bad ignition switch is the likely culprit.Hope that helps!

Why is there a loud "click" sound when I put my car in park?

There could be a number of reasons for the sound you hear, all of which are perfectly normal:Other person have pointed out that the noise you hear might be the transmission “parking pawl” engaging. However, this is typically not a “loud click”, more of a hushed one.What might be an even louder click is the detente cable which connects the ignition switch to the shifter, and prevents the gear shift from being taken out of park without the key being in the RUN or ON position and the foot on the brake. And on many newer cars, this is actually not a cable, but an electric solenoid.Many cars connect the shifter to the transmission through linkage cables. Others may have rods. This is especially true for front wheel drive vehicles, or mid engine rear wheel drive vehicles. Newer cars have solenoids to make this connect. But they all connect to a shift lever on the top or side of the transmission. These are usually designed to be quiet, but can develop a click over time. If you also hear softer clicks when you shift into other gears, then that is the issue.Less likely explanations might include:The lock-up torque converter may be sticking. These should disengage below a certain RPM, but a faulty sensor could cause the converter to stay engaged slightly longer. Moving the shifter out of drive will absolutely disconnect the locking torque converter (provided there are no mechanical problems).Something completely unrelated to the transmission - the are relays all over your car that control things which may be triggered by parking. I once had a lady with a GM car that - as a safety feature - locked the doors once the car went over a certain speed. She feared being trapped in the car, and immediately unlocked them every time. One day she started complaining about a loud clicking noise when she put the car in park. I quickly figured out that was her doors unlocking automatically. She hadn’t noticed the sound until she got upgraded hearing aids. I fixed the problem by telling her she was more likely to be carjacked than to be trapped in an accident, so now she keeps the doors locked.If this is a new issue, then it would be a good idea to try to investigate further. Old mechanic tip: you can use a hose from a vacuum cleaner to snoop out the location of the noise. Put one end to your ear, and poke around with the other end until you’re able to pin-point the source of the noise. Then discuss with your mechanic.

How long can I drive my car with loose engine mounts?

For days, weeks, probably months. Most engine mounts have captive metal parts so the engine can’t drop out onto the road. It will just go clunk when you shift into drive or reverse. So it’s not a safety issue very much.

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