How long does it take to replace a wheel bearing?
How long does it take to replace a wheel bearing?To get to and replace a wheel bearing on one wheel on a car or light truck is probably less than a 1 hour job in most cases for someone who knows what they are doing and does this kind of work regularly. They will have the correct parts, the tools, the right lift, a well lighted and roomy place to work. All of his tools will be the correct tools for the job and he will know where all of his tools are.If he gets in there and finds damage to the hub, it will take longer. For one thing, he probably won’t have a new hub handy and will have to see if the local parts shop has one in stock. If they don’t, then they will have to get one from their warehouse, which could take a day if they have it in stock. Then more time, if they have to bring it in. If you have a common vehicle, the parts should be in stock at the distribution warehouse. Depending on where the vehicle is, this could take a day or two to come in. Faster parts availability if your car is in Chicago vs a little town in NW Montana.Even if there is damage to the hub, the extra time to replace the hub is minimal. The time to get parts could be days if the car is not common. A hub for a Ford Crown Victoria is going to be readily available in most places and could be overnighted to just about anywhere in the US. A hub for a 959 Porsche, a Ford GT, or a DeLorean is going to take longer to source.
How much does a rear differential cost to get replaced?
As everyone here says, you dont give enough info to answer accurately. To start though, for every model car there has been published a suggested time for a competent mechanic in a shop to r+r (remove and replace) or otherwise service all the parts in a car, that information also gets collected and put into aftermarket books available online. You can start by calling a dealer for the car you have and asking the book time to do the job- that will be a number of hours- that you multiply by the hourly rate to get a cost. I see 4 hrs mentioned, that is by no means standard across all models!As differential gears usually last the life of a car, buying the assembly used is likely a reasonable option, swapping out the whole unit is usually a much less technically demanding job that can be accomplished by casual mechanics, correctly assembling and shimming the internal gears should be done by an experienced shop.I see some have answered assuming it is a solid axle car, lots of modern cars have IRS (independent rear suspension), so the hours of required labor needed are all over the place.
What is the rear end gear ratio for a 1995 chevy s10 blazer 4x4?
open ur glove box, look where the white paper is (with all the codes, the paper says "service parts idenifaction, do not remove") look where it says the axle code will start off "GU" after that it'll have a single number,( full example "GU6"), so once u get the code, just look it up on the internet, haynes shop manuel etc. or you can do it the hard way and crawl under the truck and find the same code on the rear end housing. if there is a "G80" right by the rear end code ( on the service parts id sheet), than that means its a limited slip rear end.
Can you drive a 2001 4x4 Blazer without the CV axle?
Look, what do you think an “axle” is?!? A simple Google search of the definition should indicate something quite simple to you. You need an axle in a vehicle. 4 wheel drive? Doesn't matter, an axle is STILL AN AXLE whether the 4 wheel drive is engaged, or not! I mean really?! I get why you're asking, but just simply sit back and think about that for a second.Anyways, long story short, you can do anything you want to do, but I would highly recommend you do not drive the vehicle without the CV joint.
How much does it cost to replace a tie rod?
As with many of the More Useful Answers already left here (some are just snide remarks from people who feel better about themselves when talking down to others!) it really depends on the vehicle & the specific part in question.There are “Tie-Rods” & “Tie-Rod Ends”, then there are Inner & Outer Ends, also Left & Right. So, you must know which component needs to be replaced. Once you have established which one you need, most retail auto parts supply stores have online websites to assist you with the part lookup.If you are mechanically-inclined, you should be able to replace the part yourself, come away from the job with a sense of accomplishment & some extra coin in your pocket! Of course there will be Tools required, Direction & your Time. (Purchase a Haynes or Chilton’s Service Manual for your vehicle… there are also Videos Online to assist you visually.)Unless there has been Physical Damage (Car Accident, Curb Collision) & your vehicle steering is out of alignment, requiring Alignment Service at a Repair Shop, you can avoid this added expense if you make the repairs yourself; When I am replacing a Tie-Rod End on a vehicle which is within Alignment Standards for Steering & Tracking, I clean the threaded areas of the rod with a Wire Brush to remove any buildup or corrosion, then apply a light coat of Aerosol Spray Paint to the area. Once dry, I will remove the part to be replaced, leaving a definite line so I know the reassembly limit for the new component. With everything reconnected & properly torqued, job is complete & no alignment is required.Bottom Line: Unless you are working on an Exotic (Ferrari, Porsche, Rolls/Bentley, BMW, etc) a single Outer Tie-Rod End should cost you no more than $40. Most newer cars have Power-Assist Steering Racks & the Inner Tie-Rods are contained within the Steering Rack, making it much more expensive & labor-intensive, meaning it should be replaced by a shop unless you are an accomplished technician.Best of luck, I hope this is helpful!
Pinion seal on a 1999 Chevy blazer 4x4 ?
1 1/4" or 32mm should do it. Replaced the one on my sons 2001 Blazer 3 months ago. Mark the nut & flange with a marker or chisel so you get it back to the exact same spot. If the spot where the seal rides has a groove worn into it, use a speedy sleeve over the worn spot.
What is the cost of a front wheel bearing replacement and how long a procedure is it?
I recently learned that many, if not most modern autos no longer have bearings that can be cleaned, inspected, and repacked (assuming they are ok). Instead the complete hub is replaced as a unit, even on rear wheel drive SUV’s. I just did this on a Chevy Trailblazer, and after I got over the initial shock of needing to replace the whole thing I realized the $99 I paid for the complete unit wasn’t that much more than I would have expected to pay for just a set of bearings.On this one it appears GM uses the exact same hub for both 2WD and 4WD applications with 4WD’s being only slightly more complicated to replace due to removing an axle nut and driving the shaft back out. The brake caliper needed to be removed, then the rotor, followed by removing three bolts that held the hub to the steering knuckle. More complicated than replacing the wheel bearings on something with drum brakes, but not any more complicated than replacing bearings on something from the 70’s or 80’s with disk brakes. I spent the day making other repairs but I would guess I could easily replace just a hub in an hour.For the record I got a quote of something like $770 to replace just the hub and lower ball joints, I ended up replacing upper and lower ball joints, one hub, and brake pads for a total of around $250 in parts plus a day of my time..
I found some numbers on my rear axle amd im trying to identify the gear ratio?
And any other info I may need to help me get the correct replacement rear end. I want to go to a junkyard and find a rear but I need to be sure I get the correct one...so the more I understand about what kind of rear diff I've got the better chance I'll have of finding the right one...I have a 93' Chevy Blazer full size K1500 4x4 I'm assuming its limited slip...its a Chevy ten bolt rear and it has some numbers one it...these are the numbers...GMK18 and on the other end 15555679. Any suggestions on what I should do? Try to find a junk yard rear? Take it to a shop for professional repair? Or order the whole rebuilt rear from a website and have it shipped to me and I can drop it in at my brothers house? And price quotes on these different ideas? I haven't taken it anywhere yet.
WHY WONT FRONT TIRES SPIN IN 4WD 2002 CHEVY TRAILBLAZER?
As Bugs Bunny use to say, "What a Maroon." These modern vehicles that state 4WD do not have true 4x4. It's a limited slip differential. Meaning if one of the rear wheels is slipping, the front wheels will slip. Only if all 4 tires have traction will all 4 tires spin. Putting the front axle up in the air will basically not engage the front axle. Edit: This is for the guy that thinks he knows how 4WD works. Here is how they work: Under normal conditions one axle gets 100% of the torque - meaning you are driving in 2WD. During traction loss at the driven axle (could be front or rear) a fully automatic system (hydraulic, mechanical or electronic) makes someof the torque to the axle with traction available. This means you have to lose traction in 2WD on your driven axle first and then the other axle will be added and try to keep the car moving and stable. Once the primary driven axle regains traction and both axles rotate at the same speed again, the system reverts back to 2WD. So, for a brief moment you had AWD. http://www.rubicon-trail.com/4WD101/diff...
How how do I check differential oil in 98 chevy blazer ?
My 1998 Blazer has a slow leak in the rear differential seal and I want to check the oil level. I thought I'd find a plug on the rear cover but there isn't one. There is a hose coming out of the top of the differential. Do I remove that and fill it there or is there another way ?