What temperature should the air coming out of my vents be?
It depends on several factors, among them: the outside temperature, the structure's ability to hold out heat load, the overall health and capacity of the HVAC system, and of course, the integrity of the duct work. On the system; if the condenser is clean, it will reject the heat. If the system has the correct refrigerant charge and the evaporator is clean the system will absorb heat. The filter must be clean and the fan be able to move the required air CFM.... Please be advised that for every 5 degrees above 95F outside (including heat index) the system loses 15% of capacity. Add to that things like an extremely hot not well vented attic, direct sunlight in windows, continuously opening & closing doors and those windows and doors being not exactly energy efficient well there goes another 20% of capacity.... Even hanging something like exterior bamboo roll up blinds to keep the sun off western walls helps.... Keep boiling water, baking, & frying to a minimum... During those hotter-n-hell times of the afternoon: Go outside about every hour and spray the condenser coil with a hose for about five minutes. You will be amazed how much heat you can take out of your place. Even as a renter, you have the right to have the HVAC system work & operate to your satisfaction, not the landlord's..... or didn't you know that? Since this is only the 21st, send the landlord a certified/registered letter explaining what is wrong and that this is a formal request for service. Also, put (in non-threatening language) that should he choose to ignore said request, you, at this time, reserve the right to call out qualified personnel to service the unit, and that any & all customary charges will be coming out of the rent. It will have to come out of your pocket, but that money goes to the service outfit, NOT the landlord. As long as that is clearly stated, you are in the clear. You will see a service truck pull up to the house within 36 hours of receipt of that letter. I've done plenty of work on that basis.... one slumlord tried to take me to court over it. He lost AND had to pay my attorney. btw: to answer your question, its 102F in my neck of the woods. my vent temp is 60, my inside temp is 69F my thermostat is set (and stays at 68), but i take immaculate care of my unit and my landlady kinda likes that.
Air Conditioner turns off before temperature is reached?
I would say that the freon needs to be checked as well. If there is not enough freon in the system, there is a low pressure switch in the unit that will eventually kick in and shut the unit off. Also, if you are experiencing this problem during the hottest part of the day, then your compressor (probably located outside) could also be overheating from overuse. It has an internal safety switch which will turn it off until it is safe to turn back on again (it does this automatically). Also, make sure the area where you have the thermostat does not experience wide temperature changes such as open doors, dryer, or oven. One last thing, make sure you change the air filter that is located in your return air grill. This is the grill that sucks up all the air into your unit to be cooled. It is larger than the vents feeding the cool air into your rooms. If the filter is dusty and filled with lint, it needs to be changed. This will drastically affect the performance of your AC unit and cause it undue strain over time Hope this helps!
Portable Air Conditioner / Split Configuration?
I live in a rented apartment where there's very little airflow, and my landlord is a pain in the butt and won't install an air conditioner for me or will allow me to make the holes to install a Split A/C. So I went out and bought myself a portable A/C and being the (in)expert I was, I bought a single hose one. So lately I've been experiencing negative pressure in the room and as soon as I turn off the A/C unit, it feels as if all the hot air comes back in and it just doesn't retain the cool. So lately I've been thinking: My window leads out to a balcony and I already have a plexiglass sheet that I put in place of my window to exhaust the hot air. What if I placed the portable A/C unit outside, and instead of venting the exhaust hose out, I vent the cool air in, like a Split A/C. That way I get 1) positive pressure in the room, and the cool would maintain, 2) I can drain the water directly to the outside grate, no need for a bucket, 3) less noise inside the room, 4) more space inside the room. Now before I go into a hardware store and buy some parts to seal the cool air vent into a tube and try this out, I wanted to know if there are any obvious shortcomings with my idea that I might be overlooking or that it might ruin my A/C unit. (Of course, I do consider the fact that by drawing air from outside, the air pumped inside will always be a bit hotter than if the air was drawn from the inside of the house) Thanks in advanced..
What temperature should the heat be that is coming out of my central heat vents?
It should be what the "Delta T" Rise in temp of the manufacturers specification's. That is to say it is the difference in temp. from the temp. of air entering your furnace and the air leaving your furnace. If your conditions are right, and the furnace is clean and adjusted properly, and filter is clean, and was set up at first with proper duct size and fan speed and air flow and so forth it will produce the proper temp rise and max. performance. If the mfg. suggested Temp rise is 40 Degrees F then: Read the temp. of air entering your furnace and the temp of air leaving ,and the difference is the "Delta T" Example: Air temp out = 110 Degree F minus 70 Degrees F entering = 40 Degrees Interesting note: As your home warms up, the entering air temp. rises till it reached your thermostat setting. Thus the new air entering temp is higher plus the Delta T equals a new higher leaving temp.
What should the temperature difference between supply air and return air be in an air condition unit?
Supply air should be always be colder than the return but the thermostat should be near the return duct for control.
Can Heat be blown through the Air Conditioner, there are -3- Different Controls?
I DONT GET THIS!!!! .. .Ok. Im Looking at hy cars HVAC Controls. It says, under AIR CONDITIONING: (from Left to Right) MAX - NORM -B/L (Maximum, Normal... WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? HOW does MAX make the FAN run Stronger? Doesnt it use up FREON Faster? My car has original THAT Too. STILL COLD ESPECIALLY when it gets BUILT UP!! Thats how its Supposed to be, right? R12) - WHAT IS BI-LEVEL!! .. THEN it says "Economy" - VENT - HTR OK.. now "VENT" is OUTSIDE AIR... (the Fan can be on 1 at the Lowest, it has 1,2,3,4) but HTR... Next up is DEFROST and there is NO REAR DEFROSTER!! Now. Questions: 1) CAN -HEAT- be blown through the AIR CONDITIONING Controls? I know the Compressor comes on... 2) WHAT is the difference between MAX and NORM? Sometimes all MAX does is make the FAN blow Faster and stronger, but SOmetimes it gets REALY COLD on Max, and also on Norm.. Whats the DIFFERENCE? 3) Is it vetter to hear the car from HTR, or DEFROST? I TRY to use HTR, as that blows if -FORWARD,- Right? Thanks!!!
AIR CONDITIONER -- How long does water drip after turned OFF?
It depends on the humidity level in the ambient air. Its just like when you have a glass of ice water on a humid day and the outside of the glass collects condensation or moisture from the air. Thats all that is going on inside the air conditioner and there is nothing to worry about. Nothing is leaking.