Best spark plugs for a toyota corolla 2001?
The best plugs for you car are nippon denso. These are the factory installed plugs and you can pick them up at your local dealer. Your car shouldn't need plugs for at least 60,000 miles as they are a platnium plug installed from the factory.
Changing Spark Plugs in a Toyota Matrix?
I do most work on my 2004 Toyota Matrix XR (oil, air filter, coolant, tire rotation, transmission fluid, etc.) and will need to change my spark plugs soon. Is there anything special I need to know about changing the plugs in a Matrix? Most cars I've worked on have been pretty straightforward, but I want to be sure before I do anything.
When should I change my spark plugs on a 2007 Corolla S?
Wow, lots of lame advice. The plugs should last at least 100k as should the rest of the so called tune up items. If you live in a cold climate, know that mileage drops in cold weather on all cars. Corollas have had some Engine Control Module issues including a recall on some of the 07s. Have a dealer check to see if your car is involved. They need to actually get a number off of the car to determine if yours is involved. Changing spark plugs, distributor caps and rotors frequently is a carryover to the buggy whip days. Many if not all modern cars have electronic ignitions and distributor caps and rotors are not present any more. I am pretty sure your Corolla has neither.
How much does it cost to change spark plugs on a Toyota Corolla?
That depends on if it's a 4 or 6 cylinder engine. The labor to do some of the 6 cylinders is more due to it having 2 more sparkplugs and because sometimes upper plenum removal is needed to get to the rear 3 plugs. Also if it's a newer designed engine where coil over type plugs are used it can be more labor intensive due to having to remove individual coils and cosmetic plastic covers etc...Good luck and hope this helps.
What if you have changed spark plugs and coil packs and it still misfires?
Then its your timing. Take your car to the mechanic and have the timing corrected.Misfires are solely the result of either advanced or retarded cam timing, as the ignition is firing either too early causing what is known as premature ignition, or too late, resulting in unburnt or still burning fuel being pushed into the headers. Of the two, premature ignition is the most damaging because it can actually force the engine to either stop or start running backwards. Running backwards is very unlikely, and will not allow the car to drive. You can however, if the engine stays running with proper timing (also very unlikely), drive in reverse very quickly.
Changing transmission fluid on a 2006 toyota corolla myself HELP!!!?
Your vehicle takes Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid. It is very, very important that you use this fluid only. To start out, I'd recommend that you buy 4-5 quarts of this fluid, as well as a new transmission drain plug gasket. They can be easily and cheaply obtained from the dealer. Underneath your vehicle, if you look at the bottom of the transmission you will see that transmission drain plug. This plug requires a hex socket (10mm to be specific), and looks like a regular bolt head turned inside out. Removing that plug will allow the transmission fluid to drain. Once the fluid is done draining, replace the gasket with the one you purchased, and tighten the plug. Add 3 and 1/2 quarts of fluid, start your vehicle and allow it to warm to operating temperatures. Check the level of your fluid once it has warmed up, aiming to have the level within the "hot" range on the dipstick. Typically, 3 and 1/2 will put you right there, but it is important to check nonetheless. This is the simplest form of transmission fluid service, the more complicated requiring a flush machine to perform. Toyota Type T transmissions, especially Corollas are notorious for the fluid turning dark at early mileage. You can attempt to have them try to do something about it under warranty, but they will feed you the diplomatic safe answer of "well, it all depends on your driving habits..."
Why did the Toyota shop tell me to use OEM spark plugs instead of Bosch?
I visited the Toyota shop for a little technical help--removing the engine cover so I could change the plugs--on my 2006 Corolla LE. After they took the cover off, they asked me what plugs I was going to use. I told them that I'd probably just get premium Bosch plugs, however, the tech said to use Toyota parts. Is this just an attempt to get a sale for the shop? Or is it really something to do? I was looking for premium plugs, and OEM parts generally aren't top-of-the-line parts.
How do you change spark plugs on a 1996 Toyota Tercel?
gently remove the spark plug wire/boot off the plug (they require a good tug to "pop" off) remember which one goes where, OR, change one plug at a time leaving the boots on the other 3 plugs using a proper sized spark plug socket and ratchet (it has rubber inside to protect the porcelain on the spark plug) remove the old plugs make sure the new plugs are the correct ones and have the proper gap by using a gaping tool (available at auto parts stores for under $5, I prefer the "disc" style ones over the wire style) The proper gap can be found in the owners manual and/or on a sticker under the hood carefully install the new plugs while trying not to let anything touch or hit the electrode on the spark plug (effecting your gap) and tighten with the ratchet and socket, about 1/4 to 1/2 turn pass finger tight. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN re-install the boots on the plugs in the same place they came off (this is important, the ran will not run properly if they go in the wrong spot) YOUR DONE!
Should I choose cold or hot spark plugs?
this is one of those areas that people just dont seem to understand…the heat of a plug has nothing to do with the flame in the cylinder. they dont make an engine run any hotter or colder than it otherwise would.all it signifies is how hot the plug itself gets in operation.a COLD plug suits a HOT engine. which is why you see more and more new vehicles with high numbered plugs, such as ngk **11** or **13**, as they run lean, and hot.a HOT plug suits a COLD engine… which is why lawnmowers use low number plugs, using ngk again… numbers such as **5** or **7**.a hot plug holds heat, retains it. it gets hot. which is good for an engine that runs slowly, or a twostroke that has to burn oil off its insulator and electrodes. if the engine is tuned correctly but plugs come out dark brown to black…get a hotter plug. if its a generator that spends most of its life putting away at 3000rpm…get the hotter plug.once the electrode starts melting and the insulator comes out bone white or even blistered…its TOO hot. (or, as ive found with some engine/plug combos, you get seriously bad pre-ignition…)with the exact right plug heat range, and a perfect tune, the plug comes out looking virtually “as new”. white, or just a shade of tan.if the engine is used at full throttle, all day long, in tropical heat… get a cold plug.you will usually find manufacturers list two, sometimes three plugs as suitable, with a small note saying that the “8 is suitable for inner city use” and the “9 or 10 is more suited to racing or high load use”