Ball Python in 20 long?
Could you keep an adult ball python in a 20 gallon (or if I added a lot of branches and climbing things to utilize more living space, a 29 gallon) long tank? I've read some places that a tank that size isn't big enough, yet I've seen tons of youtube videos of breeders that keep all of their snakes in plastic tubs, so I'm a bit confused. Anyway, if that size tank is absolutely unacceptable for a ball python, I'll go with either a corn snake or a rosy boa. I don't want whatever snake I get to be uncomfortable. :)
How to breed a bumblebee colour morph ball python?
If you're breeding for pleasure with ball pythons then go ahead. But you're highly unlikely to make money on ball pythons now, unless you literally have tens of thousands to drop on the really rare snakes like Soul Suckers. The price drops every year, bumblebees were thousands only a few years ago now they are only a few hundred. If you buy adult snakes that are ready to breed you MIGHT turn a profit in the first year but you'll be very lucky the next year to do the same...and the snakes will still need feeding even though they are no longer turning profit for you. If you start with babies forget it, by the time babies are ready to breed the price will have dropped below the purchase cost of your snakes. Bumblebee is Pastel X Spider, you have a 1 in 4 chance in each egg of getting one in the clutch. You are unlikely to get more than two, and you may not get any. Genetics are purely chance.
Can I use heat mats on my new ball python rack system?
You'll wear the heat mats down and cause issues sliding the tubs around on them. I'd use a run of 11" flexwatt down the back of the rack. I prefer back heat to belly heat on baby / juvy racks because if there is a malfunction, the occupant of the tub can get far enough from the back of the tub to possibly survive until you check on the rack and notice the problem.
Breeding ball pythons question?
Hey Natalie. Breeding pieds is a great morph to start with because you can always sell pieds and they hold their value very well You'll want a breeding group, Which should be one male visual pied (meaning he shows the visual pied gene) and 3 or 4 female het pieds (meaning they appear normal but carry the gene for pied. When you breed the male against those girls, you'll get 50% visual pied offspring and 50% het pied offspring (statistically speaking). That means all your snakes are good as either holdbacks (keep them for future breeding projects) or for selling. A decent male will run you anywhere from $800-$1200 and the female hets can be as low as $200 per snake. Some breeders will also sell pied breeding groups of 1 visual and 3 hets and they can sell for as low as $1500 total. You will need a rack system - either build it yourself or get someone else to or buy one. For a decent rack you're looking at around $250+ to start off. It's simple enough to make an incubator and there's lots of online plans on how to do it so that should be fairly cheap. You will spend all year preparing to breed and then all year taking care of and selling the babies and then you'll do it all Over again. It's time consuming and very expensive. It will Take a long time - if ever - for u to start making cash and for that to happen you need to invest in morphs. Don't bother breeding normals, they're too difficult to sell and it's even hard to give them away. For some other good morphs, try this: Get a killer male - like a triple morph, I.e killer bee or queen bee and get some basic morph females, like pastels or mojaves or fires and breed the male to all the girls. You'll be guaranteed to get some good clutches. You need to study and understand genetics before you do anything further though. Once u get it, u get it! It's easy but confusing at first. Fires will clean up any morph they're bred Into so they're a good one to work with and super pastels or regular pastels are the basic foundation for any good breeding project so I recommend lots of these morphs. I wish u all the best. Any questions: Becs080@hotmail.com All the best.
Why does my ball Python move a lot?
If your ball python isn’t spending most of the day in its hide, then it’s obviously unhappy. You need to trouble-shoot immediately, because a ball python roaming in the open all the time is very stressed.Check temperatures — the basking area (from an under cage heat mat or cord) should be 90F, no hotter, no colder. Make sure the surface is not too hot or cold using a digital thermometer with a remote probe.The air temperature on the cool side should be 80 to 83 F. No hotter! If it’s too hot, the snake may be trying to escape from the heat to save itself. No colder — colder temperatures can lead to respiratory infections.Humidity — this rarely causes roaming, but it should be 60% at minimum. Dehydration will result, otherwise.Hides — the enclosure should have two single-entrance hide boxes that are just big enough for the snake to squeeze into tightly. This is crucial for ball python to feel secure (unless it’s in a rack system, which is basically a dark hole in a box anyhow).Cage size— while many ball pythons are very flexible in what they will tolerate, a huge percentage of them are claustrophiliac. By this, I mean they want a small enclosure, and become stressed out in a big one. If the enclosure is too big, especially if it’s not crammed with cover (fake plants, etc), they want to find someplace more secure, and roam to search for a way out. They will often not eat in a cage that’s too large.Now, if what you’re complaining about is actually the snake moving around a lot when you take it out of its cage, this is just normal, especially for a young snake that’s still getting used to being handled.A ball python that is very afraid will curl up in a tight ball. If it’s anxious and unhappy, but not terrified, it will try to leave. So, having your ball python try to get away is a normal step in the taming and habituation process.Keep handling sessions fairly short, and do it once a day or so (skip feeding days, and a few days after feeding). The snake will eventually calm down and be less inclined to bolt when handled.It’s normal for a ball python to spend time exploring its enclosure at night. They are nocturnal.
How Many Watts/Heat for Ball Python?
light bulb should be 60 thaTS WHAT I USE AND A HEAT PAD SO MY TANK IS AROUND ON THE 90S
What are the pros and cons of having a ball python as a pet?
I’ll be answering this as though we’re talking about the pros and cons of Python regius as a pet instead of “some other snake”.Pros:They’re a relatively small python - easy to house and to find food of appropriate size for, as well as pretty harmless.They are more likely to hide rather than bite if they’re frightened - though this is a tendency, not an absolute (yes, I’ve been bitten by defensive baby royal pythons and have one defensive adult).Many are fairly tolerant of handling.They come in a wide variety of colour morphs if that’s your thing.They do have quite a long lifespan when compared with similarly sized colubridsThey’re pretty easy to find as captive-bred pets, and a wildtype is not going to be terribly expensive either, unlike some of the other small python species.Cons:They can and do occasionally fast and can be fiddly to get feeding if you’re not familiar with “what snakes need”. This can be pretty worrying for a new snake keeper, especially if you’re more used to dogs and cats that want feeding daily.They aren’t necessarily very interactive and don’t tend to *want* to be held (and if you’ve got a fiddly feeder, handling it for fun is the last thing you want to be doing before you’ve got it eating reliably) .There are certain colour morphs that are known to have neurological problems (“Spider” and any combination morph that contains it, as well as a few others I can’t recall off the top of my head) and there are at least some hobby groups which are trying to strongly discourage the propagation of these morphs because the “wobble” (spinning, flailing, rolling over) can be severe enough to cause the animal distress, difficulty in feeding and failure to thrive. It isn’t always that bad, but any “spider” based morph, even one without a wobble now, can develop a wobble (even a very severe one) under stress - and it may never reduce in severity.Some people consider them “boring” - often in conjunction with “they’re pet rocks, they don’t need a bigger cage” - this isn’t true, and if you do give a royal python an enclosure with enough room to move around and things to climb on and hide under, on or behind, they’ll take full advantage of it.If you’re wanting an enormous big python, this species isn’t it.
What advice would you give to someone who is hoping to breed ball pythons?
It really depends, I'm going to breed my ball python but only for one or two morphs. My advice is to have everything as perfect as you can and sucessfully breed two of them together first. If you can get a clutch out of a pair that hatches and survives then you are on the right track. Start off with two to three of them get them breeding and producing hatchling eggs before expanding. If you can prove to yourself and others that you can successfully breed them with a pair then by the time you have your idea of ten at a reproductive age you have a history of years of breeding. Be warned though many reptiles including ball pythons and corn snakes have passed the pay stupid amounts per morph so unless you have something like 15,000 reptiles and decades building your business of reptile breeding, you are never going to be able to make it as your primary job.That said I suggest doing it for fun, I am planning to breed two different species but I have them as pets first and the breeding comes in a very distant last place.
Can you put 2 male ball pythons in a tank together?
No. Ball pythons stress very easily, and that's a sure fire way to stress a ball. Males also "battle" because they are trying to figure out who deserves the females. I've spoke to some breeders who let their males battle because they wouldn't breed, the loser ended up not eating for quite some time and not breeding for 2 years. Sometimes losing a battle is very detrimental to balls. If you can't afford to get another tank, at the very least you can get a plastic tub to keep one of the males in. I keep my balls in a rack system and they are all kept in tubs. Also, the guy above is exactly right. Balls will never eat another ball under any circumstance. The hatchling in the picture was obviously fed multiple prey items and I would not be surprised if it died. A hatchling that thin and weak should never be fed large prey items and definitely not more than one at a time.
What is a good cage size for a 2.5 ft ball python?
I always go with a 40 to 50 gal tank so there is plenty of growing room a place for him to rest or hide with enough heat I use heat lamps an a heat rock that I put a sock around so it’s not to hot for it’s skin the other end I put rocks an it’s water bowl so it’s cool on one end warm on the other An whatever ,wood ,greenery ,or rocks through out an that way it’s roomy enough for shedding an growth an jus like its natural habit so it’s not stressed An will not hav a problem feeding like a lot of balls will do! I hope this was helpful an good luck! I love my little python an try to keep him happy an stress free much as possible!