What "Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean" mean exactly?
I have a vaccum leak before. I found the leak and fix it. I reset the codes and now I only have that one : Address 01: Engine Controller: 8D0 907 558 M Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR AT D01 Coding: 06251 Shop #: WSC 06435 17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean P1136 - 35-00 - - Readiness: 0000 0100 What should I do to have that DTC fixe. It's the only one that's there now. Ohh My car is a 98 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro with 135k miles. Someone told me something about MAF... If it's my problem, how can I test and fixe it? Thanks
CEL code P2097 post catalyst fuel trim system too rich bank 1?
Autozone diagnoses suggest replacing exhaust flange. I still have my Chevrolet powertrain warranty. Is this covered? If not how much would you suggest paying to have it repaired? Don t want to get ripped off.
What does post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 2 mean? PLEASE HELP PLEASE?
Someone please help me out!! My 2005 Chrysler Crossfire Limited "check engine" light came on and I went to get it diagnosed and it read "post catalyst fuel trim system too lean Bank 2" someone pleaseeeeee give me an explanation as to what that is and how much it will be to get it fixed!! An average amount please! Thank you for your help!!
JEEP EXPERTS ONLY!! Post catalyst fuel trim lean bank 1?? HELP!!!?
Your getting deep into scan-tool land and without it it will be hard to check, you have an indicated lean condition, simple things first, left side exhaust leak, possible, if not check the o2 sensor connection, its a 4 wire which means it has a heater that helps get it up to temp so the o2 can read the Oxygen vs. fuel left over for the cylinders on the left. So if the connection is good all, systems generally go to 500 mv when the key is on engine is off, and this is when you need the scan tool. If its 500 mv the wires are good suspect the heater check for power on key up to the o2 connector, if there is power and ground then you would swap the o2. If the is no power ground or reference voltage 500 mv then check farther up the connections until you get to the control module. Always check power and ground to the control module before suspecting it. If it can not supply power or ground to the heater it will not work. Remember o2 voltage goes up to 1000 mv / very rich and down to 0 mv very lean your below 500 mv most of the time, good chance of possible injector not delivering enough fuel, possible MAF, Vacuum leaks, intake leak on left side, if you use K&N oil it may skew the MAF but it will usually affect both sides... What does the readings of the right bank o2 look like or compare the front and rear o2 readings on the left bank as you force a lean then rich condition if one does not respond, start there., hope this helps..
Is it okay to drill holes in my catalytic converter?
Your “friend” is an idiot.A cat will pose no significant restriction. There is no gain in performance.If you drill holes into it you fool the oxygen sensors into thinking the mixture is lean. That will tell the ECU to command more fuel and it will skew fuel trims. You will get a “check engine light” and pay $ 80.00 in my shop just for the knowledge that you are an idiot.You will come to my shop after having been to Autozone , where they scanned your car for free and sold you an oxygen sensor you didn’t need in the first place.Why are you doing this? Why do you want your car to sound louder?Loud cars are owned by idiots.If you want to get laid then read books. Become literate . Go to the library and make eye contact with intelligent dames. Driving around in the neighborhood with a hole in the muffler ain’t gonna get you laid.
Can a bad catalytic converter cause a "system too lean (bank 1) code?
It could be a vacuum leak, or it could be a plugging injector or two I would check for a vac leak, there a thousand different ways to tell from a propane torch to a bic lighter even a spray bottle with water. With the car running you will hear a change in idle when you hit it or get close enough for it to suck in. For your injectors, a simple fuel system cleaner may do the trick. I recommend valveoline full synthetic, if it's been a while I would start with that and give it a while. Also keep an eye on your codes to see if something else may pop up, usually you can get your code's red for $0.00 at autozone to save you some money ;) Hope this is some good advice for ya I think it is. There are other things that it could be but those are the things that are most common. And a plugged cat will not let your engine run more then a few moments, and will lean out both banks if it was. Keep an eye on your codes for a possible other problem that is not big enough for your computer to get or a drive cycle may need to run before it can.
How do I read fuel trim & what does it mean to me ?
Fuel trim is just as it sounds. It "trims" the mixture by adjusting the injector pulse width. Short term fuel trim is immediate adjustments and long term is as it sounds. You must add long term and short term to calculate total trim. This is important because if long term trim is 6% and short term trim is -3%, then total fuel trim is actually 3%. Fuel trim is calculated mainly based upon O2 sensor readings, but many other sensors are involved in the computer's complex calculations. ADDED: I forgot to mention that if trim is positive, the ecm is adding fuel to the mixture, and if trim is negative, the ecm is subtracting fuel. If you see a trim which is about 15% or -15%, there is likely a problem, something like a vacuum leak or misfire. A fuel trim which is highly positive may indicate the ecms attempt to correct a lean conditions, and a higly negative trim is an attempt to correct for a rich condition. The ecm can only correct for a certain amount, then the check engine light will come on. This usually happens at about 20%-25%, - or + A lean condition will set a P0171 and a rich condition will set a P0172 (174 and 175 for bank 2). These codes mean that the ecm has reached its limit and can no longer compensate due to some other problem.
What problems go along with a bad catalytic converter?
A clogged catalytic convertor causes the symptoms of a loss of power when accelerating or going up a hill. This is an often overlooked cause of loss of power, can cause check engine fault codes and lights, and mechanics will often change a few parts unnecessarily , especially if it is only partially plugged. A couple ways I check for plugged cats when a low power complaint is a symptom, and other obvious basic maintenance items have been checked for service is to have someone hold the rpm at about 1800 to 2000 steady. Then check for a good push of exhaust with my hand from behind the tailpipe. A plugged or partially plugged cat typically leaves a hot sickly feeling exhaust flow from the tailpipe. Compare to a known good working car nearby, known to be performing properly and with the same amount of cylinders. That slow , hot sickly flow at 2000 rpm compared to the hard push blowing your hand away of a not clogged cat is a dead giveaway, and I have NEVER misdiagnosed a plugged cat , or made false diagnosis with this method. Another way is watching a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. When revving up, if the exhaust is plugged the gauge reading will climb then begin to slowly drop as the exhaust pressure builds up. Further testing will be needed to verify which part of the exhaust is plugged. Diagnostic by codes is unreliable and until now I had not heard of it. A code p420 only refers to catalyst efficiency. And can be set by faulty o2 sensors. Removing the exhaust and testing for engine power returning to normal works. But the hot sickly flow has been most accurate with my experience, in several cases where shops had missed it, were stumped and called me to come check. They are always embarrassed for missing the simplicity, but need not, as cars and their complicated electronics and even age old problems can lead to loss of power without any immediately obvious cause.
If I took off the catalytic converter, will it make my fuel get better mileage?
Don't listen to the naysayers. A engine is a pump, anything you do to increase pump efficiency, is going to increase gas mileage. A new cat will not rais fuel consumption much, But if it has over 100,000 miles on it, You will see a marked increase or “restoration” of gas milage. This is especially true of cars with a secondary air pump. They are not exactly filtering the air, before its pumped into you exhaust.This is what gets fun. If you reprogram, or modify the O2 sensors signal to bring the engine to stylometric fuel ratio or just less, you will get a 5–10% increase in gas milage. This trick really shines in stop and go traffic. If you analyse the wave form of the upstream O2 sensors, you will notice it spends a lot more time rich, than lean. You are sitting at red lights feeding that Fat Cat, so it can make more smoke.All cars are set up to fuel that catalytic convert. This keeps them hot and working. Without extra fuel pumped thru the engine, that cat has nothing to do, cools down, and slowly plugs up. To bad your cat will plug up if you lean out the engine. Hint, Hint……….