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Where The 2 1987 F250 Fuel Pump Relays Located At

I have a 1987 ford bronco 2 wheres the fuel pump relay? any thing make it stand out?

Maybe this will help:

The actual fuel pump relay itself is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side. You will have to remove the fuse box (it hinges at one end and swings up out of the way - you may have to remove the + cable that feeds it from the starter solenoid), and the relay box is located directly under the fuse box. A new relay costs approx $35 from the Ford Dealer. Also, you can check the inertia switch which is located behind the carpet at the passenger footwell. The purpose of this switch is to interrupt power to the fuel pump in case of an accident. There's a red reset button on the top of this switch.

It is actually under the hood on passenger side. You will see a fuse box above the fender well. The relay is mounted beside and just to the rear of the fuse box.

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Can the fuel/oil pressure switch cause the fuel pump to not come on?

I own a shop, and have done extensive fuel systems work. Most GM vehicles are wired through the oil pressure sending unit (located by the oil filter, or top back of engine) and is done so as a safety feature. When involved in an accident, the engine stops running. As it stops running, it also looses oil pressure, and since the fuel pump is wired through this switch, no oil pressure equals no fuel pump. When you turn your ignition switch to the on position, you hear the fuel pump come on momentarily for 3-4 seconds. This primes the fuel pump pressure that may have leaked off, but does not run the pump. The system has a momentary relay (latch) that pulls in when energised to supply the pump with power, but once the latch heats up, the circuit opens, and if no oil pressure is there, the engine doesn't run. One can test this circuit simply by purchasing a spray can of carburetor/choke cleaner, spray 3-4 seconds into intake of engine (with throttle held wide open). Remove spray, and start the engine. If it runs for a few seconds and stalls, repeat the procedure. This test primes the fuel system, checks the fire from the ignition, and isolates the problem to the fuel delivery system. All GM systems has a fuel pump test wire (usually around the brake booster or left fender) that is red. Connect a 12 (+) wire momentarily to this wire, and the pump should run as long as you keep this wire hooked up. Many fuel delivery problems can be resolved due to grounding issues such as; no ground strap from engine to fire wall, or no ground at tank to frame. Even the ground at the battery (-) terminal has a wire that bolts to the body, and/or the frame that can cause all kinds of problems. Finally the fuel pressure regulator can have a vacuum hose that is sucking air around the hose, cracked, fell off, collapsing, or clogged keeping the fuel pressure from building up enough to run the engine. As always; One must have a clean fuel filter, no leaks in the line, and the return line to the tank must be free, and without clogs.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

1987 Ford Ranger 2.9L no power to Fuel pumps???????

I have a 1987 Ford Ranger that has new fuel pumps on it we checked the Relay and when we turn the key we are getting power to it, but is not turing on the pumps. We followed the orange wire to the inertia switcdh and it is getting power to it but when it loops around to the other wire on the connector it is not getting power,. We tried 2 inertia swithes and not getting anything. we are wondering if the computer is shot or if we are not getting a good ground somewhere for the wiring. we are thinkg about bypassing the wires instead of them going into the inertia switch just to see what happens. i need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is there a fuel shut off or kill switch located on a 99 GMC suburban k2500 5.7 4x4? if so ,were is it located?

Nopie. Only Ford has an inertia switch.

89 chevy truck 1500 silverado no power to fuel pump on?

ECM is not your problem. Beat that into your head. That is a crutch for not thinking critically. I don't mean it as an insult, but every time someone says that, beat them. :)

The ECM simply *signals* the relay to provide power to the fuel pump. It does not do ANYTHING with the fuel pump directly. The ECM closes the relay for the 2 second prime, then opens it again until it "sees" the signal from the ignition module indicating the engine is turning over, when it again closes the relay, providing power through the relay to the pump while the vehicle is running. The relay is there so the ECM doesn't have to handle the current the fuel pump draws. Think of the ECM in this case as a remote control finger that operates a light switch. :) You could test this operation by finding the wire from the ECM to the relay, and with a continuity checker, turn the key to run, and see if it grounds that wire.

Therefore, if the fuel pump fuse has no power, then that is the problem.

Running 12V to the red wire dangling off the relay won't tell you anything, as the problem is no voltage to the fuel pump fuse.

There is no cutoff in these systems. You aren't looking at the oil pressure switch, you are looking at the sending unit. The switch has two wires. Jumpering those two wires should force the pump to run, but one of the wires needs 12V, and I bet neither one does, since the fuse doesn't.

Need to figure out why there is no power at the fuel pump fuse. Should be a wiring/connector issue.

Please don't be so lazy as to poke through your wiring insulation to test voltage. I mean, I guess insulation on wiring is optional, as long as you don't mind fires, loss of continuity, corrosion, and so on!

Where is the fuel door release in a Chevy Astro 2003 van?

No release. Push on the side of the door towards the front of the van.

What is the integrated control module in a car?

I have a 1994 Mercury Sable and it has been overheating. I took it to Tuffy and they said it looks like the integrated control module or relay module has gone bad.

He didn't charge me anything to check out the car because my car is so old his software isn't compatible. I am quite mechanically minded and car-literate, but I have never heard of this part and I can't find anything about it online. From my understanding it regulates the fuel pump, cooling fan, and a few other things.

How do you replace the starter relay on a 2003 Ford Taurus?

Without having ever touched a taurus (but many other fords), I’d suggest finding the fuse and relay boxes. there may be more than one, and pulling out the old (broken??) relay and putting a new relay in.READ THE MANUAL!!! IT WILL TELL YOU WHERE THE RELAYS ARE AND WHICH ONE IS WHICH…If for whatever reason you can’t find a manual, use the model year (as i doubt they are all the same as they have been produced for 31 years) to search online for location and replacement instructions.

What is the reason a car won't start after running out of gas and putting gas in it again?

Fuel system needs bleeding of fuel to remove air ingested when U ran out if gasThe fuel pump will now be pumping fuel, but you'll have to crack each injector fuel pipe connection and allow fuel to flow to allow air to escape. When fuel flows solid from each injector pipe without bubbles, it's bled.

What is the most "redneck" or Rube Goldberg car repair you've ever done?

I'm kind of “that guy” when it comes to car repairs. you know, the one that removes the whole pan because one bolt sheared off? Yeah, that one.However, I've certainly gone around my ass to get to my elbow plenty of times.One of the most recent times in memory was when I had to take my car out of the commission for the winter for a clutch job (that's a whole different story in itself), and when it came time to fire it back up, I turned they key and…Nothing.I checked the battery. I checked the starter. I checked the igniter. I checked the plug cables, wires, distributor, checked compression, checked fuel delivery. Checked everything. Never had this car ever given such flying colors but for the life of me it just wouldnt fuckin start!Well, eventually I decided to start back at the beginning and clean all of the sensor contacts. Nothing. Checked to make sure I had no broken wires. Nothing, but why not try to start it now anyway.tck tck tck VROOM…. burb burb burb burb…Bam. Fired right up. Perfect idle, no fluctuation, no hesitation, no issues whatsoever. Well what the hell happened!?I look back under the hood and see that I left two sensors unplugged. Whoops! Better plug those in… and then it died.So after a few minutes of trying to figure I out…I had plugged in my EFI temperature sensor and my cold start timer into one another, and it was confusing the ecu to the point that it couldnt run…Two months, $700 in parts… and it could have been prevented with some tape and a sharpie.Definately some Goldberg shit there.

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