Subwoofer cutting out at high volume?
I have a 600 watt 4 channel Sony Xplode Amp that I was using to power a 500 watt Kicker Comp, but it kept cutting out at high volumes. I thought it was because the sub was older (the amp is brand new, but the sub is a couple years old) but even after replacing the sub it has the same problem. I think it might be because of the gauge of speaker wire I'm using, but I need more suggestions. Before you ask, the amp does not blow, the light color does not change, and the cables from deck to amp are all secure. The only issue could be between the sub and amp (or battery I suppose but the battery is hardly a year old). My friend suggested I check my ground, but in that case how do I make sure it's securely grounded? Thanks
Why do subwoofers have a hole?
This hole is usually a tube. This tube have air inside that has a given mass. This mass will will cause resonance according to its area, length and volume of the box. Have you ever been blowing on bottles to make sound? The smaller the bottle, or the more water or soda there is in the bottle, the higher the pitch of that sound, and vica versa.The hole in the subwoofer box works in a similar way, except it is the woofer driver that trigger the resonance and not the turbulence from the blowing air across the bottle opening. The relatively large volume of the box will cause the lowest frequencies to resonate. It is a way of utilize the rear side of the woofer driver to extend the frequency response in the lower frequency range. The resonance in the hole is somewhere between 90° and 180° delayed from the rear side of the woofer driver, so the sum of soundpressure outside the box is increased.Normally, such ported subwoofers suffer from a sharper roll off that is typically 24dB/oct. This will cause a less precise bass reproduction than closed/sealed subwoofers where the roll off is typically 12dB/oct.You can replace the hole with a second woofer, but this woofer isn’t connected to anything, but works as a slave/passive radiator. The moving mass in the passive radiator is usually high, and usually higher than the moving mass in an active woofer driver. The mass of a passive radiator increase with area, and/or less box volume to sustain the same low resonant frequency. In order to controll this moving mass, and make the subwoofer play some what precise, you need an active woofer driver that has a great force factor. Usually a driver with a large magnet and large voice coil. The advantages about using a passive radiator is that you do not longer get distortion caused by air turbulence at the edges of the hole/tube, and the passive radiator will not leak higher frequencies caused by the active woofer driver. You do not need to consider using a very long tube to lower the resonand frequency. On a passive radiator, you only need to apply more mass to achieve lower resonant frequency. An increace of mass of the passive radiator, or increase of length of a tube by a factor of 2, you lower the resonant frequency by a factor of 1.41.
Why is my subwoofer popping at medium to high volume?
The voice coil former in the woofer is striking the back plate of the motor, causing a popping/clacking sound. A bass reflex subwoofer is vulnerable to woofer bottoming below the port tuning frequency. The woofer can be protected by the use of a high pass filter and a limiter/compressor circuit in the amplifier. But in the case of your specific subwoofer, apparently these features are either missing from the amplifier, or are not completely able to prevent the woofer from bottoming out. That isn't a volume control on the amp, it's actually a gain control. Depending on the sensitivity of this gain control, the amp can still easily be driven to full power with a low gain setting - if the signal being sent from the A/V receiver is sufficiently strong. So don't think that a low gain setting automatically means that you can't overdrive the subwoofer - you can. The signal strength from the A/V receiver is a combination of the subwoofer channel level setting and of course the master volume setting. I recommend that you level match the speaker channels and the subwoofer with an SPL meter (or use the auto-set-up function if your A/V receiver has one). This will help prevent you from inadvertently setting the subwoofer channel at a higher SPL than the speaker channels, which would increase your chances of overloading the subwoofer. If the subwoofer is still bottoming out after level matching with the speakers, then I recommend turning down the subwoofer channel level in the A/V receiver by a few dB, and this will also reduce the stress on the subwoofer.
Why do my subs cut out at high volume?
That sounds like you didn't line up your wiring correctly causing the amp to get hot and to shut down, then I would guess maybe a loose or coroaded ground cable or connection
Why does my sub cut out when i turn the volume up?
Yep, a combination of what two answers were said here already. Check the wiring of the sub itself, if it is wired in series, then that is not the problem. Or your gain could be set too high, or a bad ground. Steps: 1) turn the gain down on your amp (especially bass boost, that stuff KILLS subs) 2) blare the volume PAST where the sub normally cuts out, if it's still alive, congrats, your gain was too high, you're done. 3) if the sub still cuts out try steps 1 and 2 again 4) check the wiring of your subwoofer (explained above) 5) if the wiring is still in series, and the gain is down, and the sub still cuts out, then you might have a bad ground, make sure you are connected to bare metal, if you're bolted into the trunk somewhere, take the paint off at that location, if you're connected to the negative terminal on your battery, be happy you haven't died yet in a car fire. the BEST place to ground an amp is directly to the frame of a vehicle, so if you can swing that, go for it, otherwise, just find bare metal that isn't part of the outer body work (under the trunk carpet is a good idea) 6) if after all that it still doesn't work, get a volt meter and check that your battery is holding a charge at the level you play your music 7) Still no dice? your amp or sub is bad. if thats the case, email me on here and i'll help you figure out which one.
Why does my subs cut out when i turn the volume on my stereo up? It only does it when i turn it up over half way. Any advice? :(?
I recently bought a new car (Toyota Corolla 2014 S) and had best buy install them for me and whenever i try to turn my music up loud my subs cut out and the come back a few seconds later. I have 2 12 inch kicker Comp R subs with a Kicker 1200.1 Amp (Sorry i don't know all of the specs on them). I talked to Bestbuy and they said that my radio is doing it as a form of protection? Can anyone please help me? I don't want to end up buying a brand new radio and everything that is required to install it.
Why are my kicker subs shutting off when i turn the volume up?
I recently upgraged to two 12 kicker cvr's. I series wired them and they were not hitting hard at all. When i parallel wire them(that is the positive amp wire to the positive dot and a speaker wire from the posotive dot to the positive blank and so on for the negative) they sound great at a low volume but when the volume goes up they shut off. When this happens my amp is still on(green light) so it cant be the amp. Did i wire them wrong? Why is that?
Why does my subwoofer cut out when I play songs with heavy bass?
Why When I play music with alot of bass in them or alot of low beats jumping around does my subwoofer just want to cut out and not play untill I adjust the volume down a couple notches. But when it starts playing again and I turn it back up the sub plays for a couple hits then dies away like it did before? I'm stumpped and I have been wireing and connecting subs for years and have never had this happen to me. I have no clue. :( please help fellow bass heads!
Can I plug in multiple speakers to a subwoofer?
ParallelParallelParallelWell, first of all, there are two methods to connect more speakers. Series and parallel. You can also do combinations of these.If you connect two speakers to one output in parallel, you won’t get any benefit. The amplifier can’t put out more power, and will limit the power output.If you connect the two speakers in series, you still won’t really get much benefit. You will put out less power as well. One advantage could be that you can point the speakers in slightly different directions to improve the frequency response at your listening position, or improve the stereo imaging, but this is an involved and technical exercise.You could benefit a little from connecting two series combinations of two parallel speakers.All in all, your amplifier isn’t going to put more power out, so you’re not going to benefit, except with the 4 speaker combination per channel, simply because you will have a little extra sensitivity, but you probably won’t notice a difference.Here are the possible combinations:ParallelSeriesTwo in series, and two of these combinations in parallel