1994 lexus es300 overheating? Head gaskets? Transmission?
I have a 1994 lexus es300 that when I bought it about a month ago, everything was fine... That is until I got it on the hiway..... Then it started to overheat, but not on regular streets. One of my friends told me that it was a bad thermostat, so I took it and had someone put one in for me and come to find out, it didnt even have one anyways. Then it started overheating EVERYWHERE!!!!! So I took it to a mechanic shop and they put this pressure thing on it, and said it had a blown head gasket, and that whoever sold the car to me knew it, and that is why they took out the thermostat and put on a stronger radiator cap (to make it take longer to overheat). I still drive the car, but it overheats after about 20 minutes and I have to let it cool. Well sometime after I left the mechanic I noticed that when I put it in reverse, the temp goes down, then jumps back up when I put it back in drive, and just the other day it started to slip a little (just sometimes).Then I remember another mechanic asking me if I was having any transmission problems. Well right now, I just flushed the radiator and put some K&W in it to seal the gaskets, and im waiting 12 hours to refill the coolant, and while I was doing that, I checked the tranny fluid and it is brown and smells a little burnt (but not bad). So what im wondering, is it possible that its not a blown head gasket, or maybe it is and it is also causing the transmission to overheat? And since I have don the K&W thing for the blown head gaskets, what should I do on the tranny end? flush? change filter and top off? I have heard that flushing a trany can cause more problems and I cant afford more problems, so please only answer if you know what you are talking about..... Thanks
Are 1994 lexus es300 rwd?
From what I'm seeing I'm pretty sure it's FWD. It could vary depending on the engine capacity, but I think they're all the same. I'd shop around for parts if your looking for ball joints. There's many places online that have good deals on stuff like this. One legit site I know is carpartswholesale.com, of your looking to get it done yourself. If not, I'd shop around for mechanics, are prices, and quality can differ from one mechanic to another I checked a few sources to see if it's FWD or RWD. Most likely it's gonna be FWD http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/1994-Lexus-ES-300-Specs-c2573
1994 lexus es300 overheating?
I have a 1994 lexus es300. I just bought it 2 weeks ago. When I first got it, everything seemed fine, but as soon as I got on the hiway, it started overheating. Someone told me that it was the thermostat, so I bought one and had someone put it in. After that, it started overheating no matter where i was, and within minutes. So I figured, maybe it would be better to just take the thermostat back off, so I did. And it still overheats badly. One of my friends took the radiater hose off and had me start the car and rev the engine, and no water came out the hose what so ever. Would that be the water pump is bad? Also I noticed that one of the bolts on the thermostat housing is broke, but there is no water leaking from the thermostat area. Would that possibly be because the pump is bad also?
Can a bad ECT sensor in a car cause overheating?
Does the car actually get to overheating, boiling over, bubbleing in the reservoir. If yes you have a problem, if no the your ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor is bad. It won't "cause" overheating but it can push the temperature gauge it the over heat zone when it's not really overheating. Do you get a check engine light, you have a problem.
Car still overheating after replace upper radiator hose.. What now? Help!?
I hope to saint auto mechanic that you are using genuine Lexus coolant and NOT some kind of generic junk! Something cause your hose to burst, like TOO much pressure in the system. Try flushing out the system, and make sure your thermostat is working. Also, check the cooling fan switch and cooling fan relay and fuse. If all these things are working correctly, and your engine is still overheating, you MIGHT have a leaking head gasket. This would make excess pressure within the system, causing hoses to burst AND an overheat problem. Since this car is high mileage, you might consider just having your head bolts removed and replaced. THis might reseal the head gasket. THere is a sequence to doing this , and proper torque settings MUST be used. You are actually lucky this car is a Lexus!! ALSO, make sure that the space bewteen the radiator and the A/C condesner is totally free of ALL debris. Go to a power wash, and flush this vital area out!!
Will my car let me know if my transmission overheats?
A couple years ago my car overheated, that was the last time. I have leaking oil and my mechanic told me that was the evaporating faint smokey stuff that I saw come off the hood of the car when I was driving and the car said that it was only warm, not hot or cold. Since my car was low on transmission fluid and slipped I am just kind of worried that this smoke (looked more like a light steam) could've been from the transmission, although it never smelled burnt. I'm just worried that I might have a bad transmission since it slipped when it had low fluid and it only slipped once..
Car overheated and now engine knocking really loudly?
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your car has suffered internal engine damage- hard to say specifically (it could be bearing, a blown head gasket or warped head, etc) but one thing is certain: You engine will need to be rebuilt if you plan to keep drving the car. Often it makes more financial sense to scrap the car and buy a new one, because prolonged period of overheating often sounds the death bell for engines whose value is less than the estimated cost or repair. Sorry for your misfortune, but at least you know the prognosis.
What is the best transmission fluid for a older Lexus ES300?
Dexron II (i.e., "2", not 11, and "Dexron" does not have a "t" in it) was superseded in 1994 by Dexron III, which is a better, newer formulation. Dexron III started to be phased out in 2005, to be replaced by Dexron VII. Both are fully backwards compatible with the older fluid in your transmission. People will always have their favorite brands which they'll argue about, but they're all the same. (The exception is full-synthetic brands such as Mobil One, which truly are better in the sense that they last longer, flow better at much lower temperatures, and resist breaking down when overheated. That said, synthetic oils are much, much more expensive, and you wouldn't see any real benefit by starting to use it now.) As for checking the fluid, procedure is same as with most cars. The vehicle must be perfectly level, fully warmed up, running, and in park with the brake set for safety. The level must be between the two marks on the dipstick.