Why does my polymer clay keep melting?
I agree. Polymer clay will never melt (it will instead darken more and more with higher temps and eventually burn to a crisp giving out thick black unhealthy smoke at about 385 F). Otoh, plasticine-type clay will melt and will do it at about the temps and times you mention. They're similar in that they're both oil-based and will never harden in the air like air-dry clays will, but they're different in that a wax has been added to the plasticine-type clay which among other things makes the whole blob melt with too much heat. And plasticine-type clays *cannot* be hardened (that's why they're often used for stop motion animation, like the brand ClayToon). You can read more about plasticine-type clays (also technically called true "modeling clays," though many manufacturers may now call their clays "modeling clays" just because they can be "modeled" --shaped-- but of course any clay can be *modeled*), as well as more about the other kinds of clay there are these days, in my previous answers here: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?... (ignore first 2 paragraphs) http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?... (ignore stuff about UK) If you want to use polymer clay however, check out some of the info for beginning polymer clayers in my answers here, including various brands and their characteristics, baking, etc: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?... ++ And there's loads more info about every aspect of polymer clay in the links below.++
If you glue gun playdoh to glass will it melt?
i have a project that i have to d. well i have to glue something on the inside of a glass so it still shows clearly through the other side. i was thinking to make the thingys inside out of playdoh and gluegun them but would that distort the image from the outside, and would the playdoh melt? also does anyone have any suggestions as to what i could shape/mold and then stick on the inside or even for a better solution to a binding agent.
Can i use hot glue with tin foil?
Glue gun glue won't stick well if pulled on later, or sticking out, etc, when used on any very slick surface (glass, ceramic, smooth metal including foils), but it should stick well enough for at least some uses. You don't say which kind of "clay" you're using though. If you're using a polymer clay (Premo, Fimo, Kato, Sculpey, etc) you can press something called "imitation leaf" on it while it's still raw and it will stick really well . Here are some pics of both silver and gold colored imitation leaf applied to raw polymer clay (of various colors), but these have then been "crackled" before using which you wouldn't do: http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/D... (Some colors of leaf will need sealing after the clay is later hardened to avoid oxidation, but the "silver" color usually doesn't. It's available in sheets at craft and art supply stores, and sometimes in strips on long rolls.**) Once polymer clay has been baked to harden it, you can apply leaf to the clay using "size" or just a permanent white glue (PVA) that has been applied to the surface with a brush, etc. And if you're using one of the air-dry clays instead of polymer clay, you can do the same thing after the clay dries. (Plasticine-type "modeling clays" will never harden and heat will just melt it.) You can also use metallic powders of various kinds (like Pearl Ex) on raw polymer clay and on cured polymer clay (or dried air-dry clay) if you mix it into a clear medium of some kind to make a "paint" out of it ...(some metallic powders come with a "binder" or adhesive already in them too). There are also some metallic tapes that are adhesive on the back you might be able to use (hardware stores, art supply stores, perhaps craft stores). **much more info about imitation leaf (aka "composition leaf") and how to use it on this page of my site: http://glassattic.com/polymer/leaf.htm (click on *Handling & Applying* under the LEAF section as well as Basic Information --on this page, leaf is not the same as "foil") ...pics of imitation silver leaf: http://www.google.com/images?q="imitatio... HTH
Would a hot glue gun work?
A glue gun would work (and I doubt that even the high-temp ones would melt the plastic laminate), but glue gun glue is not really flat so could be lumpy-bumpy where you put it, and isn't all that strong. If you put the glue onto some surfaces too, it could peel up some paints or coatings, etc, when the glue is pulled up (to remove or to wash, etc). If you want to put the laminated place mat on the table temporarily, if the table has a slick surface and won't be easily damaged by water you can just wet the table where you want to put the plastic and it will stick pretty well (that's a trick for rolling out dough with plastic mats too). Or you could put a sheet of rubbery drawer liner underneath (on rolls next to the Contact Paper drawer liners...comes in colors). Or you could put a temporary adhesive on the back of the place mat (not directly on the table since harder to clean off later)...there are various sprays and tapes and even glues that will stay slightly sticky so can be temporary adhesives. You could also do things like put a bit of clay under each of the four corners of the mat (be sure the kind of clay you use won't damage the material/finish of the table). You could also just put your drawing on top of a sheet of rubbery drawer liner then put a sheet of acrylic on top of that (use an acrylic rectangle from a hardware store or from a picture frame, or from a plastics store), but leave the edge of the drawer liner showing as at least a little "frame" around the drawing so the acrylic will have something to grab on to. That way you could change the drawings if you wanted. We do something like that when working with polymer clay so our acrylic (or other slick) working surfaces won't move around when we roll the clay on top...sometimes we can put temporary paper rulers or guide lines under the clear acrylic but on top of the drawer liner too.
Can hot glue be used on Air Dry Clay?
Hot glue will work fine on air-dry clay (and won't damage it), but it may not be all that strong. There are various kinds of "air-dry clay" though, and they may have different ingredients/additives which would work better or worse for that clay and better or worse for any particular gluing situations. In general you'd want glues that still work well for connected parts that don't match *exactly* and glues that work on "porous" sufaces (both reasons instant/super glues won't work well). If you're using the glue after both parts are dry, you could use a permanent white glue (Elmer's GlueAll, "PVA glue," tacky glues, Weldbond, etc) which come in different strengths --and you can probably even use that before the clay is hardened or use "slip"-- (and btw, you can use hot glue right next to permanent white glue at the same time), or you could use a pretty strong glue like E6000 or a non-flexible one like 2-part epoxy glue. If you're trying to strengthen connecting parts like arms, etc, you will usually want to use a "permanent armature" inside the clay that crosses that joint inside the clay, or just use a permanent armature that goes inside the entire body or item (often wire or twisted wire, etc). Air-dry clays are like polymer clays in other ways too... i.e., you need to make sure the clay is very well "conditioned" until it's smooth and pliable before you begin shaping, and to make sure the areas of any joins are as large as possible, etc. .
I want to make a polymer clay keyring. Can I bake the keyring chain directly into the clay?
I assume you mean metal chain so the answer is yes. There are other considerations though for doing that and also for making key fobs with polymer clay. Most "key rings" are actually composed of several parts: a split metal ring for slipping the keys onto or a clasp-type ring, plus often a length of chain, plus a "jump ring" at the end for attaching to something else as the key fob. They way most polymer clay key rings are made is to connect the jump ring (or the last link in the chain) to an "eye pin" or an "eye screw" or a U-shape (all usually metal). The eye pin connection is most common, but all of those would have their shanks or legs pressed into the clay.The strongest way to do that is to create a mechanical hold of the clay around the shank or legs, but some people count on various glues instead. The mechanical holds require no glue though and will be virtually impossible to pull out.You can read about all those ways of connecting clay fobs (or other "pendants," beads, etc.) to other things on these pages of my site:Pendants & Cording (especially check out the subcategories called "Full Loops" and also "U's") And for key rings in particular, check out this page:Beads (click on the category "Misc. Uses")Other things to consider when making key rings are the specific polymer clay used and the shape of the item created.Some brands/lines of clay will be stronger than others after baking, and especially in any thin or projecting areas. Probably not good to have much in the way of thin or projecting areas on clay key fobs anyway though if the key ring will receive much stress in pockets, bags, etc. See my answer here and another (as Diane B.) over at yahooanswers, and also the links in them, for more info about those things: https://www.quora.com/Which-clay...http://answers.yahoo.com/questio...
Can i put hot glue on a cast?
I have broken bones....there is a cast on my leg....the doc said there is fiberglass in the material that it is wrapped it that's what causes the hardening after it is wet. Can I put hot glue on the cast so I can decorate it?
Is it safe and effective to hot glue roseart modeling clay?
Glue gun glues won't be adhesive on true "modeling clays" (plasticines) like the inexpensive RoseArt brand. In fact, since plasticines will melt if heated above a certain temp, the glue especially from a high-temp glue gun could make them melt a little where the glue first touches them. The only real way to use glue gun glue with plasticine clays would be use use them as "mechanical" connectors rather than adhesive connectors. In other words, you could perhaps make a hole in each piece to be joined, fill them both with glue, then press together. That would be similar to using other "armatures" to join pieces (like short lengths of wire or toothpicks, etc). (Air-dry clays would work better with glue gun glues, and polymer clays might work at little.)