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Wilson Hammer 6.4 Power Holes

What do you think of the wilson hammer 4, and prince TT Bandit? i don't know if i should get a new racquet.

Hi Jackson since you didn't tell us how long you have been playing, how old you are, what you level is I can't really say which racquet would be better or best for you. To pick a racquet that is best for you you really should demo the ones that you are interested in. Tenniswarehouse has a great demo program that only costs you the shipping and you can demo up to 4 frames for a week and then just ship them back. No obligation. If you break the string no problem but if you loose or break a racquet they will have to make you pay. (likelihood is slim that you would break one though unless you intentionally smashed it or let it slip out of your hands while serving or hitting an overhead)

Hammer 4 review
sorry can't seem to find one still looking
found a Hyper Hammer 4.3 power hole at Holabirds
http://www.holabirdsports.com/cgi-bin/pr...
Prince Triple Threat Bandit review
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/Reviews/...
Demo program
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/demoprog...

Wilson Rackets with Control and Power?

I have been playing tennis for some time and become quite good. Recently I bought the Wilson K Six.One 95. At the time I was convinced that was the perfect racket. Time has passed and after playing with someone else's racket which had more power, I think its time I get a racket with a little more power.

Has anyone, from experience, tried Wilson rackets with a good amount of control and power? Some of the ones I noticed online were the K Blade and K Pro.

I have a Wilson Hyper Hammer 6. I'm thinking of switching to a Prince O3 Orange Hybrid. Is it a good switch?

The first sign is a missed period, and if you have missed it for six months, it is safe to assume that you are pregnant. I would get a test done as soon as possible. I can not judge you for being 17 and pregnant, I was in the same boat as you, I was 17 when I got pregnant with my first. I ended up keeping her and she'll be 10 this year. The thing is that you have to tell your family, they are usually willing to stand by you and support you at a time like this. What's done is done, they can be a little upset, but I am sure they will be understanding. My family was great. Now I am having my 4th and I am 27 now, so I hope that you do the right thing. It is good that you are looking at adoption as an option if you feel that you can not handle it. Though I would definately give it a strong effort before I decided to do that. I do not regret the decisions I have made and I am happy with my life as it stands. I wish you the best of luck and take care.

What racket is better? Wilson or Prince?

Check out on www.tennis-warehouse.com
U will get reviews on all leading racquets. Wilson is no doubt more widely preferred over Prince. My choice would be Wilson n-six One tour 90/95

Overall for Wilson :It is found that nSix-One Tour 90 to be the most demanding racquet we've playtested in 2004. We think this one is definitely best suited to advanced players who take to the court on a regular basis. With its hefty 12.4 ounce weight the nSix-One Tour 90 rewards strong and accomplished players who can regularly find the sweetspot. If you are a classic striker of the ball, have good mechanics and are looking for a racquet that offers a lot of heft, plenty of control and that can be swung aggressively without fear of over-hitting, you might want to take this one for a test drive.

Overall for Prince
Prince proves again that it is only good to have holes in your game if those holes are O Ports. Players familiar with the soft and dampened feel of O3 racquets will find the same response here. Those looking for a crisper feel at impact need only string the O3 White with the optional hard throat grommet. From all areas of the court, we found a generous sweetspot and easy access to spin. The O3 White proved to be very maneuverable and it was easy to find the racquet head speed needed for aggressive baseline hitting. Players from the 3.5+ to advanced level who like to play aggressively from all areas of the court should definitely take this one for a demo

What wilson racket of today closest represents the old Wilson Hammer 6.4 Power Holes racket?

OK i have only been playing tennis for a few months I first brought a wilson roger federer racket but I found the vibration was to over powering for topspin and etc so I started playing with my friends spare racket which is a 6 year old Wilson Hammer 6.4 Power Holes. since I have been using her one its amazing the difference has made to control ability, topspin forehand and just controlled strokes etc, I don't over hit the ball nearly as much and when I put into practise what I have learnt in coaching it's finally starting to happen with this racket more then any others I have tried out. obviously I can't go ahead and buy this as it's out of circulation due to the age of the racket. but other Wilson racket is closest model? I know there are a few Wilson hammer racket's on the market but I have absolutely no idea what if any of these models would be representative of the power holes 6.4 so please if a tennis know all could help me out I would be most grateful

What happens when you put power strings on a control racket?

Try it! A lot of people like putting powerful strings on a controlled frame. You might not want to string it fully with the luxilons, but using them in a hybrid set is quite popular.

There's no formulas for what strings are good on what racquets. It comes down to individual preferences. And it never hurts to try something out. Worst that happens is you don't like it, and you try something else the next time.

How do modern tennis rackets, especially Wilson rackets, map to rackets from twenty years ago?

It was about 20 years ago that Wilson pioneered the concept of head heavy frames.  They lowered the overall weight of racquets but concentrated more of the frame's weight in the head.  This maintained swing weight and power but decreased overall weight.  The Wilson Hammer was born.  Since then they've continued to tinker with balance and flexibility for applications in baseliner, all court, and serve and volley frames.  There aren't any serve and volley players left on tour, and very few all court players.  They're almost all (except for Federer and a few others) baseline players.  This had led to stiffer, more even balanced, open sting pattern racquets.  You are correct that Fed's racquet (not sure about his current one, but definitely the pro staff) is very unforgiving.  It's extremely head light balance (but still 13 ounces) and it's a tight pattern (small head, no matter the number of crosses and mains will produce a tighter pattern).  It was the perfect racquet for his style. The game, however, has become 3 dimensional.  There's more spin than ever these days, which makes it very difficult to play with a traditional racquet as the ball isn't staying low any more. Fed, in recognition of this, has switched to a more forgiving frame (although I'm not sure what the specs are).  A baseline racquet will be stiff, even balance and open pattern (only old folks play with head heavy racquets).  That gives the racquet more access to spin and power, but a little less control when inside the court.  There's a reason, in other words, that you hardly ever see Nadal go to the net.  If he ends up there he definitely didn't mean to.  Head light, flexible frames are more manoeuvrable and, therefore, better at the net.  But, they don't have the same power and access to spin as other racquets so they aren't as common with primarily baseline players.     Wilson's offerings take into account every type of player.  Knowing what kind of player you are will help you chose the right frame.  If you're a baseliner look at open patterns, even balance, stiffer frames.  If you're a net guy then go for a smaller head, tighter patter (for control) and more head light balance.

How do guns get the power to fire bullets?

Let me explain.If you dry fire a gun (meaning you don’t actually load a cartridge round into it) then the gun clicks and does nothing.When you load a gun, aim and squeeze the trigger, here is the chain of events that occurs. We’ll go with a Ruger M-14 Rifle firing a .223 varmint round as an example.You start with the bolt open and a loaded magazine full of rounds. The magazine is loaded into the rifle and the bolt is snapped closed. The act of opening the bolt pulls the firing pin back. Closing it still leaves the firing pin cocked and ready. When the bolt closes, it slides a round into the chamber, putting it into position.You aim the rifle down range at the target, get your sight picture aligned and then squeeze, not pull, the trigger. The trigger releases the firing pin which strikes the primer (The silver spot on the very back center of the cartridge). The primer then suddenly heats the gunpowder inside the cartridge, causing it to burn. When the gunpowder burns, it finds that it’s in an enclosed space. The heat causes pressure, which, in turn, causes a buildup of it, causing an explosion. Granted this explosion is a small one. What the explosion does is push the small lead projectile out through the barrel at a high rate of speed. You actually hear and see the effects of the explosion. There’s a popping sound and it’s loud and then a flash from the barrel.All of this happens inside of a second of squeezing the trigger. The gun itself has no power.Now, take a slingshot and a small bit of lead like a fishing weight. If the rubber band is hard to pull back, you’ll need some strength. The more you have, the further back you can pull the rubber. Once you release it, the projectile flies as fast as the bands can fling it.It’s the same concept. Essentially, you’re flinging a small projectile very quickly to perform maximum damage to your target. Granted, a gun is sort of like a Rube Goldberg machine in this instance. It just does what the slingshot does but it does it more efficiently and consistently.The gun’s perceived “power” is really in the ammunition cartridge.

Which should I get: a cordless drill or cordless impact driver?

The cordless drill/driver is by far the most popular portable power tool of all time, and it's not going to lose that title anytime soon.However, cordless drills are beginning to lose ground to a relatively new type of cordless tool, the impact driver.What's the difference between a drill/driver and an impact driver?A cordless drill/driver is a versatile tool that's designed to drill holes and drive screws. Its keyless chuck accepts a wide variety of round- and hex-shank drill bits and screw-driving bits, as well as hole saws, rotary sanders, wire-wheel brushes, and other accessories. All cordless drill/drivers are also equipped with a slip clutch that allows you to adjust the amount of torque for precise, consistent screwdriving.An impact driver looks similar to a drill/driver but for one noticeable distinction—instead of a keyless chuck, it has a collet that accepts hex-shanked driver bits. This tool is specially engineered to do one job: drive screws, which it does faster and easier than any other tool. Impact drivers can drive long, large fasteners—including fat lag screws—that would stall the very best drill/driver.So, if you're planning projects that require driving a ton of screws, or a lot of very large or long screws, then consider an impact driver. For example, impact drivers are ideal for building decks, installing tile backer board, and screwing down plywood subfloors. If you're not planning to work on such projects, you might want to stick with the versatility of the cordless drill/driver. However, the gap between these two useful tools might be closing: Some manufacturers now offer drill chucks and other hole-drilling accessories for use in an impact driver.

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