What is the difference between 35W HID headlights and 55W HID headlights? (HID experts only please)?
Well, my brother and I have spent WAY too much time researching and testing with current meters and different bulbs and different ballasts. From what is available today, the majority of the inexpensive HID kits, 55 watt or 35 watt are using this Slim ballast with three casted lines on the bottom of the top face and one towards the top where they stick their label (if you read the sticker, which by the way is not always reliable). The typically show an Inorm or normal running current of 3.5A, sometime 3.2 if you bought a 35 watt kit and they will often state that the power consumption at "<55 watts" which is true. Sometimes they relabled with 4.2A if you bought a 55 watt kit, but from our testing, they are the same and run a current draw of 3.5-3.7 amps. We bought a bunch of different bulbs and big ballasts and slim ballasts. And switch bulbs did cause the ballast to react differently, drawing more or less current. For me, the results showed that don't be fooled into paying for the sticker, Any Xentec ballast, or the digital slims will be running 3.2 amps unless your lucky, for they did make them at one time. My point is, you can't test the label. Now, from my tests, and if you want the higher output (a stated by the other response, it does effect the bulb life for all the bulbs are the same, haven't seem a HD bulb yet with increased life span at 4.2 amps), stick with the large size ballasts. There are good ones out there, usually have the CE stamp on them, 4.5 Inorm on the label. There are good japanese made ballasts too, slim 55 watt, even 65w, available from china. Bottomline if you just want to switch to HID, 35 watt is the cheapest way to go, and produce such a dramatic increase in light that you won't care if it is 55 watt or 35 watt, and you don't have to change the bulb, well unless water get in there. Order two extra bulbs for $10 just in case. Don't order anything with the Xentec name, they are unreliable, order the slims digitals with the case as I described. They work fine, no flicker, kind of slow startup, and produce something just over 35 watts.
I did a trip across Europe on a 2001 R1, I hit the rev limiter at 292kph indicated. Given my cousins live in Germany, I did quite a few hours on The Autobahn, at 291 indicated.If the R1 has the standard 6% margin added to the true speed, this brings us down to 275kph, which felt about right. A good mate of mine on the R1 forum says the 2K R1 does 274kph, and I believe him.
I own TVS Jupiter as well and was absolutely not satisfied with the default setup of 35/35w Halogen. Instead of ‘illuminating’ the road these bulbs just highlight the road. So I started experimenting with the headlight.A Better Halogen :I started with the easiest setup, replacing the 35W stock bulb (Phoenix) with a better one, OSRAM Silver Star 35w/35w . It did make recognizable difference and was a little improvement (~10–15%).Higher Wattage Halogen :I took it to the next level when I replaced the OSRAM with 55/60w philips CityVision. This made a big difference and I quite liked this setup. Some issues with this approach were that the bulb used to get dim at low RPMs and achieved its full brightness on revving up the engine. The high power requirement also caused bulbs inside Dashboard and the pilot lamps to get dimmer than usual. I suspect that I was stretching the generating limits of the alternator coil.LED :Next I opted for a 20W, 12V DC LED H4 Headlamp from Nao brand based on good reviews. As Jupiter comes with AC Headlight setup I had to rewire a bit. I cut the supply wire from alternator that goes to the light switch and tapped on the 12V (+) orange wire that goes to pass switch. Supplied the light switch with this tapped line. Result was beautiful. There is huge improvement over the stock bulb. This will remain as my permanent setup for Jupiter. I’ve been using this since 3 months and there is no battery drain issue. Unlike HIDs the beam pattern rendered by LED is good and doesn’t glare the approaching vehicle provided that the LED is on Low beam mode. The high beam illuminates the dark road upto very long distances, providing ample confidence. Attaching some photos for the idea.NAO h4 led Headlight Moto light High Low 20W 2000LM COB 12V 6500K Motobike Head Lamp #M4 H4/HS1-in Headlights from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
2001 Yamaha R1 suddenly won't start???? HELP!?
Ok. So it's cranking over but not firing. With limited info let's start with the basics: We need to check 2 things 1) is it fuel starvation or 2) is there any spark. 1) I can't remember if the 01 R1 is fuel injected (i think it is right?). follow the fuel system all the way from the tank to the motor and ensure there's flow (sometimes the petcot fuel switch can get clogged). If you can verify that there's fuel going in the go to 2. 2) There is a firing computer chip that may be fried. Or, as odd as it sounds check that no fuses are blown. I think there's a master fuse outside of the fuse box under the seat you should check too. Call the dealers and ask them if there's a way to check whether the computer chip is bad. Sorry I'm not much help.. Goodluck
2001 Yamaha R1 temperature problems?
If I'm understanding you right, fiddling with the battery makes it start? Clean your battery terminals, tighten them down, check all your fuses for corrosion, and check the wiring to the starter. As for it starting, you should be using the choke instead of throttle to start it up, and letting it idle until its warmed up. You didnt say if you were choking it or not, but it sounds like you arent.
As I have never ridden an R1, I will just refer to my own R6. They are very similar bikes, they even look almost the same. Remove the stickers from both and you can’t really tell the difference.When it comes to handling, assuming your bike is properly maintained, all comes down to:weather and road condition,your riding skills,quality of tires,upgrades, such as a high-quality steering damper.Again, assuming all of the above are abover average, R6 handles like a dream; you literally think where she should go and she follows. That’s the perk of riding a supersport/superbike.About passenger comfort: there is none. I took a short trip around the city with a friend of mine once, on his Suzuki GSX-F600, which is not even a full supersport, more of a sport-touring bike. My hands were numb, I was tired of the sharp acceleration and braking, also a bit dizzy from our helmets colliding occasionally (yes, it happens during heavy braking!). And his bike has has “only” 80 HP, at over 220 kg. With both of us, it totalled to about 350 kg. Fun ride, but wouldn’t recommend. Now, as my R6 does 0–100 kph in 2.8 seconds (never achieved that, though, whenever I try to, it ends with a wheelie), brakes so hard you feel your eyeballs popping out of the sockets, is a pure crotch rocket with just a tiny, lame excuse for a passenger seat… I wouldn’t want to ride there. I’m not sure if I would even take a passenger, as they might squeeze me to death. I forgot: my friend had a hard trunk mounted, which served as some kind of a protection against falling due to his bike reaching 100 kph in 6 seconds, so I didn’t have to hold so tight, actually. You can’t mount that on an R1/R6. And they accelerate twice as hard. You know, just by free-falling you will reach 100 kph in 2.73 s. Keep that in mind.Acceleration? I think I already covered that. R6 has more than enough. From what I heard, R1 does that from low RPM.Those are not bikes for touring.
Cheapest place to by Motorcycle tires for a 2001 Yamaha Silverado?
Cheapest place to by Motorcycle tires for a 2001 Yamaha Silverado? The best place to buy Motorcycle Tires online cheap is at Amazon.com The cost of tires depends on a few different factors but the two important ones are the size of the tire and the quality you want to purchase. They will start as low as $30 or $40 per tire and go up to hundreds of dollars each. http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Tires/b?node=353635011&tag=yah-auto-20 Buying motorcycle tires is much like buying tires for a car, but it requires some special considerations. The type of tires that your motorcycle needs depends on a number of factors, including the type of riding you do and the surface that you will primarily be riding on. Riders know that a good set of tires is paramount to safe and enjoyable motorcycle riding. Motorcycle tires are the key factor when it comes to steering a motorcycle and gripping the road. Tires also provide shock absorption, support the frame of the motorcycle, and carry the load created by the rider and passenger. Riders need to know when to replace their tires to ensure maximum safety and control, and riders should also learn how to care for tires to keep them in top condition. http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Tires/b?node=353635011&tag=yah-auto-20 For example, if you will be riding mainly on streets, then you will want to buy standard motorcycle tires. If you are looking for better traction, you will probably want to go for a soft rubber tire, as it will grip the road better, but keep in mind that this type of tire wears down more quickly. If you want motorcycle tires that will give you a long service life, then firm rubber is the best.
What are the key differences between a Yamaha R6 and R1?The R6 is a bit easier to ride, it is more forgiving and for me it is more fun, especially on a race track. You can whack the throttle open on the R6, while on the R1 you have to be a lot more careful.The R1 is a bit more comfortable for long rides. I had both an R1 and an R6 at one time, so I actually made heads up comparisons.I had a young guy ask me which one he should buy for a first bike. I said neither one, get something a bit smaller and slower, and learn to ride that first. That’s a good way to save on hospital ER costs later…Oh and I highly recommend that any new rider, find a rider safety course and take that. Honda has a good one I took it and even with years of experience, I learned a few things….