Why won't my Car let me go over 40 mph?
Usually cars these days will let you know when something is wrong with “her” (the vehicle). And usually she will do it with the check engine light. Now if she won’t go over 40mph chances are she’ll let you know by turning on the check engine light and the go in (as mentioned) “limp mode” or “safe mode”. Basically a mode that prevents you from damaging any vital components but still lets you drive it to get her to the nearest mechanic (car doc). This mode will decrease speed and decrease gear shifts normally to second (again as mentioned) but this will also increase fuel as it is a method to prefent you from running to lean on fuel. (One of the sensors to cause limp mode is the mass airflow sensor or MAF sensor - the sensor which tells the computer how much fuel to inject to keep a good air to fuel ratio - if limp mode is activated it won’t know how much fuel to inject to keep a ratio because of the sensor not telling it how much). This will cause your vehicle to be slightly less fuel economic. Other thing is the CAT or catalytic converter which is responsible for removing some of the harmful gases caused by internal combustion engines. If cloged or faulty it will cause the lambda sensor and exhaust oxygen sensor to send a signal to the engine telling something ain’t right also causing her to go in to limp mode. Another reason could be transmission fluid. Automatic transmissions use fancy electronics and oil to determine and select gear. If the oil level is low enough it will cause the transmission to go into safemode te prevent you from damaging it and will prevent you from going into another gear other than second. Symptoms might also be not engaging gear smoothly or not engaging at all.But like the others have said before rather get your vehicle to a mechanic and let him take a look.
How do I fix my car having a rough idle after replacing the alternator?
You're right to assume that something else going on. Because it is!Personally I'd check to see if the alternator is providing the right amount of voltage. it's not impossible to get the wrong part installed. and when I say that, I don't necessarily mean you chose the wrong part, but during the assembly line a part they grabbed while assembling the alternator could have been or of spec or something. Check the grounds. A lot of the time, over years of use a little sand blasting or sand papering of the hookups does help. while running the engine, disconnect the battery. A poorly performing battery can drag the entire system down. check to make sure your AC ain't causin' problems too. make sure the clutch is spinning or not spinning when not being used. double check the water pump to see if it was messed up. lastly check all your ignition wiring too. depending on the model year and brand, it might be chatty with obd2. if it's carbureted, obviously you won't get any feedback. if it is obd2, there might be information in there that can give you an idea of what's going on. so get a reader and check. also with modern fi engines, they'll run rough after a battery removal for a while. make sure your fuel economy hasn't been affected, if it has, it's a clear indication that something is wrong.
What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?
Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring, the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.
Car problems (nothing turns on)?
If it's been sitting in humid conditions for 2 years you could have some water damage done to the fuses or wires. But the first thing you do is this. - Check the battery terminals, make sure they are free from rust. If they are rusted there are two easy fixes for that, first take a wool scrubbing pad and srub the rust off until you see fresh metal, the other fix is to use a mixture of baking soda and water, this not only helps clean off the rust but also any extra battery acid that may have gotten onto them. Next check the battery terminal cables, make sure they haven't seperated from the terminals themselves. If they have you need to replace them, be very careful this could cause electric shocks. Next check your fuses, you can locate these under the steering wheel. Take each fuse out one at a time and hold it up to the light and make sure it isn't fried. There is a small metal conductor inside each fuse that should run completley across the fuse. When you have a blown fuse the middle of that conductor will be literally burned out. replace any blown fuse. Next you will want to make sure your alternator is working properly, but chances are that if it wasn't giving you problems before it went into hybernation then it won't be giving you issues now. Get a volt meter and make sure you know how to use it.(I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this part but I'm sure a fellow friend will know how to use this. Next you will want to make sure that you don't have water in your gas take, this can cause the engine to not want to start. Go to the store and but something called HEET it's a small yellow bottle and pour the entire thing into the gas tank. This will evaporate all the water. One bottle works for about 15-20 gallons of gas. Sorry but this is all I could come up with, if none of these things work it sounds like you may have to run some diagnostics on it. A newer model of vehicle has a computer run engine basically and if your computer chip has been water logged it will need more help than you can give it. Good luck.
Is my transmission out if it won't go in drive but will go in reverse?
My truck has a similar problem, so I will attempt to answer the question to the best of my ability. But first, answer these questions: Does your vehicle shut off when you put it in drive (or any other gear[park is excluded])? Notice any abnormal smells? Next, look under the hood and check the dipstick (do NOT turn off the engine while doing this) run the engine until it is warm either in park or neutral. After rubbing the dipstick, fluid should run pinkish and almost clear and should be sweet or tart when wafted— if your fluid has a burnt toast smell and is brownish, take the vehicle to the mechanic. Check to see if the fluid is betwixt the ‘add’ and ‘full’/‘hot’ and ‘cold’ marks— if you are near the ‘add’/‘hot’ mark, flush out the old fluid and replace with new fluid until full; if you overfilled (which you probably did), you will have gear shifting trouble and your oil will be depleted. My advice is to siphon out the fluid completely and refill the transmission until full.Signs of a Failing TransmissionWhat Happens When Too Much Transmission Fluid Is Added - Driving Life
What causes a car battery terminal to get hot when trying to start it?
Possibly this1. If wires get hot when you try to start it and the motor is spinning over. Then the motor isn't starting and your over heating the cables by using the starter too much.2. If the wires are getting hot, but the engine isn't turning over then the starter is bad or the BIG wire going to the starter is shorted.3. If only one wire is getting hot at a connection, then you have a bad connection at that point. A symptom of this problem is everything electrical shuts off when you hit the starter.
Why is my car making a clicking noise?
Heating and Air ConditioningA car's climate control systems include components that can can produce a clicking noise if they fail or require service. One of these components, the heater plenum, contains devices called blend doors that control the mix of cool air to warm air as the user switches the controls from one climate setting to another. These blend doors run on an electric actuator that can produce clicking noises when it fails. The air conditioner compressor may also make a soft clicking noise if its refrigerant supply has run low.Belts, Joints and SupportsMany of the support systems on a car can cause a clicking noise if they malfunction or wear out. Struts and shock absorbers include hydraulic dampening valves that will click or rattle if they lose their internal oil pressure. Worn CV (constant velocity) joints on the front axle can also make clicking or popping noises, Damaged CV joints make a pronounced clicking noise when accelerating or making sharp turns. Additionally, a loose serpentine belt can cause a clicking sound. Replacing the belt's tensioner can alleviate the problem.ElectricalLow voltage from the car's battery can lead to rapid clicking or ticking noises when the driver tries to start the car. As a battery ages it may lose its ability to deliver a consistent 12 volts of electricity to the starter. In this case, when the driver turns the ignition key, the starter turns itself on and off rapidly, resulting in a rapid succession of clicking sounds. The driver may have to replace either the battery or the alternator that supplies electrical charges to the battery.In short there are many reasons it could be doing that .Today's cars have complex systems with many components, many of which can cause a clicking, tapping or rattling noise when they start to fail. Drivers experiencing this unusual sound may have to let a mechanic examine the ignition, climate control, electrical, exhaust or other systems to track down the cause of the problem. Some clicking noises signal a simple replacement part, while others may warn of imminent engine failure.However I don't think anyone will be able to help you here without knowing a bit more information. Please tell us the vehicle in question . Make model year ? Also when does this clicking noise take place? Thank you and Good luck.
How can you fix an alternator that is overcharging?
If an automotive alternator (Question misses the assertion of where the alternator is, and what drives the alterntor), is deemed to be ‘overcharging’, then you need to look at all of the things that can cause a reduction in current.Since most automotive applications have the alternator bolted to the engine block, I would look at corrosion of the charging circuit back to the battery.This means the ground connection at the alternator, the ground strap to the frame, and the battery negative terminal to the frame as well.It means for an older (>4 years old) car, the atmospheric conditions can cause oxidation, and the regulator that controls the current into the battery can go out of tolerance.Another source of resistance, is the bolt that holds the regulator to the frame.If that is rusted, then the regulator can mis-interpret when to conduct and shunt excessivve voltage away from the battery.If it is a simpler car the regulator is a separate component, and is suspect. IF it is a car where the Engine Control Coomputer controls everything then somewhere, it is getting the wrong input and then reacting appropriately.
What does "misfire on cylinder 1" mean and how do you fix it?
not sure what engine we’re talking about or how this was determined , but assuming its spark-ignition (gas/petrol) type , then there are three main reasons for misfire . #1 low compression ; a valve leaking , head gasket leaking , or broken piston ring . #2 weak/intermittant ignition ; faulty spark plug , high resistance in plug leads , faulty coil , or faulty distributor if used . #3 wrong mixture ; faulty injector , vacuum leak . #1 problem can be verified by a compression test , #2 can be checked by interchanging plugs , wire and coil pack one at a time . #3 is a little more difficult , but injectors can also be interchanged , check vacuum hoses for cuts/holes or completely disconnected .