How much horsepower would a 305 small block stock have?
The LG4 engine, the Quadrajet carbed standard 305 from 1980 through 1988 generally had about 145 HP and 240 torque (numbers here may vary a little). This was GM’s most common V8 engine in use during the 1980s. It received a small bump in both HP and torque in 1987 with the advent of the hydraulic roller cam.
What is the normal oil pressure ( in psi) for a 5.7 liter V8 engine at idle. What is the minimum acceptable?
I have a Chevy 3500 1 ton panel van that is at 120,000 miles. The engine also runs the on board Steam Genie carpet machine when it is parked, however my question is pertaining to the engine under no load at idle. It's gauge reads 20-25 psi and as the gas is pressed the psi reads steady higher up past 3/4 on the gauge where it appears to be normal. I have only had the van a few days and I am more accustomed to little 4 cylinder cars which I believe have much higher oil pressure I gather. I did ask this question earlier with no response.
Why exactly did Chevy sell the 350 5.7 motor to Toyota? Will Chevy ever bring it back?
Chevrolet never sold the 350/5.7 Gen I engine to anyone.Displacement is Displacement. The size of the engine. The Gen 1 small block Chevy came out as a 265 cubic inch (4.3L) v8 in 1955. It has seen varying displacements. 262, 265, 267, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350 and 400 in production. There has been derivatives such as the 383, 355, 391, 406, even a 454 small block. These are solely Chevrolet engines in the Gen 1 family.Toyota has the 4.6, 5.0 and 5.7L in the UR family. These share nothing with Chevrolet.
How much horsepower can I get out of 350 vortec?
Horsepower is a function of torque over RPM. Maximum horsepower will occur at the point where torque falls off so precipitously as for increasing RPM to still show a drop. Horsepower = torque x RPM / 5250.The factory engines come with 2 or 4 bolt main caps (on the SBC this is the three in the middle - the two outboard remain 2 bolt). GM rates these blocks up to around ~350 horsepower. They really aren’t much stronger than a 2 bolt block, and for aftermarket upgrades a 2 bolt block is actually stronger - the block registers can be machined for aftermarket 4 bolt caps, where the outer two bolts are ‘splayed’ in order to bolt into the stronger part of the block where the main webs meet the side oil pan rails.So, for a stock 4 bolt block, expect a maximum 350 HP, all else being equal. For a 2 bolt stock block, expect around 330 HP.For a 2 bolt block modified with 4 bolt aftermarket splayed caps, you can expect around ~500HP strength. Higher output generally requires an aftermarket block that is designed for the increased power.Of course, you’re still looking at the rotating component meaning that you will want a forged steel crank (ideally 2.1 inch mains, i.e. ‘small journal’ for reliability and longevity - they make special bearings that adapt such a crank into your block), type of connecting rods, pistons etc.TL;dr: Stock 2 bolt - 330HP, stock 4 bolt - 350HP, aftermarket 4 bolt caps on stock 2 bolt block - around 500 or so.
What are the symptoms of a burnt exhaust valve?
The symptom you’re likely to notice the most when you have a burnt exhaust valve is a loss of power from the engine and an increase of fuel consumption as the engine is run harder to do the work expected of it. Other symptoms will be dependent upon how badly burn the valve is. You’ll be looking at a valve job to correct it, or else swap out the cylinder head altogether.When the edges of an exhaust valve burn, the combustion chamber no longer seals and not only do you lose compression in that cylinder, unburnt hydrocarbons will be exiting before they can be ignited.Running an engine low on oil will often burn one or more valves before the main bearings start to pound. Otherwise, a lean fuel mixture can cause this, too.On modern vehicles with a full exhaust system, the sound can be hard to discern. However, a cylinder leakage test will pinpoint it fairly well. Your pressure loss will be fairly high and you’ll hear the pressurized air escaping through the exhaust system, rather than through the intake or the crankcase. If you hook up a vacuum gauge, you may notice a steady loss of vacuum at idle if a valve is burnt or sticking.
What is the average engine life Chevy Silverado 1500 truck?
Don't know, never seen one wear out... I have 125,000 miles on mine, my buddy has 180,000 miles on his and he sold his old one at 300,000 miles. All run just fine.
1992 gmc 5.7 V8 with a problem plz help me?
This could either be the starter solenoid itself or the main terminal at the starter causing it to stay engaged. I have seen where the solenoid main terminal can become loose, especially in cold weather. When it's loose the internal connector can pivot. Most of the time it loses connection and the engine won't crank, but I have also seen it burn the contact points causing the starter to stay engaged. Makes a hick of a noise, don't it. About 3 inches up from the starters main terminal, grap the positive cable and try to rotate it, at the same time look at the base of the terminal. If it moves it is loose. This can be corrected with out replacing the starter. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Using a 15mm socket and ratchet, remove the main terminal lock nut. You will probably need to hold on to the cable to get it to loosen. Remove the lock nut and remove the wires. Yes, wires. There should be the main red cable and at least 2 more orange wires, these are fusible links. If your truck has a tow package it may have a third link. With the wires removed, snug down the jam nut. This will center the stud. I have used a drop of lock tight on the outer edge of this nut to keep it from loosening again. Do not over tighten because the solenoid end cap is only plastic. Reinstall the wires, lock nut, and tighten. Reconnect the negative cable and try it out. I'm not 100% sure that this is the actual problem, it could be a bad starter assembly, a park/neutral safety switch, or the key/lock ignition switch. What I do know is that this is really common, it's easy to check, and costs nothing to repair. Free auto repair doesn't happen very often. Hope this helps get your truck back on the road. Take care and good luck. Christopher
Which is better, a long block or short block engine?
That depends on allot of things actually.1: your budget. Can you afford to buy a long block outright or can you only afford to buy a little at a time and build your engine up slowly.2: your purpose for the engine. Is it going in a 500 hp street car or a 1000 horse power drag car? If you want good power and good reliability you could just get a good long block and call it done, or you could build a short block for the same purpose with similar results. If you're going for super high horse power, you should probably go with the short block you can build it up to meet your exact needs. Yes you can get high hp long blocks, but they won't work nearly as well as a custom built block would.3: experience. Anyone can install an engine, but not everyone can build a reliable one. I'm guessing that you haven't built an engine before, given that you're asking this question, which is perfectly fine. You just need to ask yourself if you're willing to risk the time, sweat and money that goes into building a short block if you do something wrong and you lose the engine. This is unless you've got an experienced engine builder, then go for the short block. If it is your first time building an engine, I would recommend starting with a junkyard engine so you can learn without allot less risk that would come with buying thousands of dollars in parts, unless you've got a lot of disposable income.4: your dedication. With a long block, you stick it in the car and you have to do a little bit of tuning. With a short block you have to do a ton of work making sure everything fits and works with your other parts, and just takes a ton more time and dedication than a long block generally would.Well, this was my two cents, I hope I was helpful and good luck with your project!
Is a 3800 v6 basically a 305 missing 2 cylinders?
Its the Chev 4.3 V6 that is a Chev 5.7 V8 missing 2 cylinders. Till the mid 1970's all the GM lines had their own motors that were all different even though several of them had the same displacement. An example is everyone but Cadillac had a 350. None of them shared any internal parts. In the mid 70's the started mixing and matching motors and having certain factories specialize in specific motors. The last Oldsmobile V8 was 1990. Last Pontiac V8 81. Last Buick V8 1979. Only Chev and Cadillac still make V8's. The Buick V6 started out with some similar parts to its V8 Buick relatives but by the time it became the 3.8 liter the Buick V8 was pretty rare. Its never shared any parts with the Chev engines. In the 1960's Ponitac had a 4 cylinder that was half of a 389. In the 80's there was a 4.3 Olds V6 diesel that was a 5.7 missing 2 cylinders just like the Chev 4.3 and 5.7.