How long does it take to repair a head gasket?
You don’t repair a head gasket, you replace it.Once I had a rally car - a bit of a ratty old junker if the truth be told - that had a 2.3 litre overhead cam engine. It was a bit like this, only this one is way nicer:Anyway I was heading off to do a rally on some Friday night. On the Thursday, the day before, I took it out for a blast around the lanes to shake down any last-minute faults, and blew the head gasket. It was too late to do anything about it that night, so next morning, I got up at the crack of dawn, stripped the engine down to the point of having the head off (it was OHC, so that involved also removing the cambox, timing belts, etc. plus the exhaust manifold, inlet manifold and carburettors) By then it was almost 9am, so I drove to the nearest big town - 25 miles away - to get a replacement head gasket set. 25 miles back, and by 10am had the head all cleaned and ready to be reassembled. Engine back together and running by 12pm, I then had to drive it 250 miles to where the rally started. It all went smoothly and I made it with plenty of time to spare.So the answer to your question, for me, on that occasion, for this car, was about 6 hours, including an hour to fetch the parts. Sometimes what you need, apart from the basic skills, which in my case don’t amount to all that much, is a great big incentive!As I recall, the rally ended in disaster, but that’s another story.
What is wrong when coolant is coming out of your exhaust?
First, be sure that it’s coolant. My preferred method of doing that is to taste it, then spit it out of my mouth without swallowing. If it’s coolant, it will probably have a very sweet flavor. If it’s condensed water (which is a normal part of your vehicle’s exhaust), it will have no particular taste at all.If you determine that it’s actually coolant, you should also have noticed a billowing cloud of dense white smoke also coming out the tailpipe.Coolant in your exhaust means one of three things: (a) a blown head gasket, (b) a cracked intake manifold, or (c) a radiator leak resulting in flung coolant getting into your air intake.
Are old cars like '70s or 60s.. worth it?
Hi.....I am a classic/muscle car lover and i grew-up in the 70's and 80's, those cars/trucks where the best the top 3-ever made. I just read a article my mother found in a local paper, people are trying to bring back their youth by locating the very car/truck they had as a teenager.. Their paying big bucks for it, it's called a "junkyard investigator", that's right Scotland yard in the local crusher finding some guys youth.. Their demanding top dollar ($200.00-400.00/hr) yes, it's becoming a business.. So I would say with all this said that YES, it's worth the blood, sweat and tears to own a yester-year car/truck.. I owned a 65' Galaxie 500 with a big block in it, I would love to have that back again.. If your good with a wrench and have good repour with the local crusher you can have a decent ride back to the 60'-70's for very reasonable $$.. You won't have to pay a junkyard Investigator to find your youth.. To give you an idea here, back in 65' when the muscle-car craze hit america was in the midst of a oil rush, it was black good or pennies on the dollar at the tank.. I could pull into any used car lot and pay cash for a muscle-car, around $9,000.oo. Or I could go to the dealer and order a COPO Camero from the factory for $9500.oo, they only made 600-COPO's.. A Galaxie back in 65' was $4,000oo brand new.. A GTO (goat) back in 66' was $4500.oo brand new.. These where the kick, put on red-lines and head right to the drag strip.. Ok, you can buy a Honda Cvcc now for I guess $12-15,000.oo give or take... Now-a-days those yester-year cars and trucks at auction bring in $40-200,000.oo in like new, rebuilt or un-touched (virgin) skin.. It would be worth it to me to get one but I'd pay through the nose if I wanted a decent one.. Hope this helps you out, go to yearone.com for some more history into muscle-cars..:-))) These people sell replacement factory componants/body panels and are a good source of info..
A 1966 Chevy C20/283, what is the point gap and dwell angle? How are the adjustments made?
Dwell angle can only be measured with an inexpensive electronic dwell meter. The answer is 28 -32 dwell angle degrees. If you're forced to use a feeler gage - new points .019 used points .016.
How many bolts hold the front clip on a 1966 chevy truck?
Maybe 8 :)