What is the best idle rpm for my 1993 honda accord?
2000 is a bit high, even for a cold weather start. When you first start it, the ECU (computer) idles faster and with a richer fuel mixture, usually around 1200 rpm. You cannot adjust the idle speed, as it is computer controlled. There are several systems that control idle speed, including a system that adjusts for when the air conditioner is on. You need to run the diagnostic codes.
I have a early model 91 Honda accord and when idling it accelerates up and down continuosly.?
The usual cause of a fluctuating idle is that there is carbon in the passages of the idle air control valve that controls your engine idle speed. That valve works by metering air around the throttle plates when the car is at a stop and the throttle plates are closed so that the car doesn't stall. If the passage is restricted with carbon build up (think soot in a chimney) then the amount of air going through the passage will be reduced to the point where the idle air control valve can't get enough air around the throttle to keep the idle up. With less air the engine runs slower. The IAC is a motor that will open and close the air passage; if the IAC is sticking or if the passage is restricted it will result in an engine that is hunting for the right idle speed. the usual fix is to have the throttle body and the idle air control valve cleaned. If the valve is plugged with carbon it has to be replaced. A low base idle could cause the surge as well. There should be a base idle speed adjustment that can be used to set the engine idle speed. I don't know the maintenance history on the car but you probably want to have the idle speed checked and adjusted first before the cleaning the throttle body and idle air valve because a simple turn of a screw may be enough to raise the idle up . If it isn't then you'll need to have the valve cleaned or replaced. hope that helps
I got a 1996 Honda Accord that idles at 2000 rpm. How do adjust the idle down to 1000 rpm?
There is an idle speed adjustment screw on that engine. Its covered by a bit of rubber. Take it off and turn the screw until you get the idle right. If the idle doesnt correct look for other problems like a vacuum leak. Also, found this on a forum thats specific to your car Before setting the idle speed check the following items; -The MIL has not been reported on. -Ignition timing -Spark plugs -Air cleaner -PCV system -(KC model) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off. 1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (A/T in [N] or [P] position, M/T in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 2. Connect a tachometer. 3. Disconnect the 2P connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. 4. Start the engine with the accelerator pedal slightly depressed. Stabilize the rpm at 1,000, then slowly release the pedal until the engine idles. 5. Check idling in no-load conditions: headlights, blower fan, rear defogger, radiator fan, and air conditioner are not operating. Idle speed should be: M/T 550 ±50 rpm A/T 550 ±50 rpm (in N or P position) -Adjust the idle speed, if necessary, by turning the idle adjusting screw. NOTE: After adjusting the idle speed in this step, recheck the ignition timing. If it is out of spec, go back to step 4. 6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Reconnect the 2P connector on the IAC valve, then remove the BACK UP (RADIO) (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the ECM/PCM. 8. Restart and idle the engine with no-load conditions for one minute, then check the idle speed. NOTE: (KC model) Pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off. Idle speed should be: M/T 700 ±50 rpm A/T 700 ±50 rpm (in N or P position) 9. Idle the engine for one minute with headlights (Low) ON and check the idle speed. Idle speed should be: M/T 770 ±50 rpm A/T 770 ±50 rpm (in N or P position) 10. Turn the headlights off. Idle the engine for one minute with heater fan switch at HI and air conditioner on, then check the idle speed. Idle speed should be: M/T 770 ±50 rpm A/T 770 ±50 rpm (in N or P position) NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, refer to Diagnosis by Symptom .
Is a hard idle normal on a 96 honda accord 2.2 non-vtec?
Look into it. This is indeed common on the accords though. Check your IPS (Idle position sensor) and also your IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Sometimes the valve is dirty or even inoperable. But check the simple things first such as adjusting your idle with a wrench. This can be done very simply. Sometimes if the previous owner tweaks the idle, it can be set too high or too low. Also sometimes the fastening nut on the idle adjustment can come loose if not tightened down properly. Make sure the idle is adjusted accordingly and ensure the nut is tightened securely. KEEP IN MIND: On your model, it is NOT suggested to manually adjust the idle with the IACV plugged in. Unplug the IACV, which will make it almost stall. Then you adjust it to 500 or 550 rpm. That's called the "BASE" idle. Plug the IACV back in and check your idle again. If it is not between 550-950, check your IACV is not shot. I hope this helps! Good luck!
I have a 93 honda accord lx with a code 6 reading and the engine light and oil light on?
Not as concerned about the engine light as I am the oil light. Anytime an oil light comes on indicates there is a dramatic drop in oil pressure which could cause significant damage to the engine. The first thing to do is to ensure you have enough oil in the crankcase - refer to the owners manual. If you get that repaired, any auto parts store can tell you what the code 6 stands for. Typically it's an emissions problem ranging from loose or missing gas cap to bad plug wire to catalytic converter problem. But it could be a myriad of other problems. Get the oil pressure problem fixed first!
Why was the idling speed of my Honda CB 500 increasing?
It was starting fine, and would tick over at around 1500 revs. After about 15min of riding it would start to climb up to 3-4000 when stopped in neutral or with the clutch held in. When I pulled over at the side of the road it would sit at 3-4000, then come back down to below 2000 if I revved the engine. After this happening on a couple of occasions the engine cut out just as I arrived home, it then refused to start again. It is a 1993 CB500S. If anyone has any advice or suggestions I would be really grateful to hear from you.
My '93 Honda Accord revs up, drops down, revs up then down, even after it warms up. what could be the problem?
idles up and down like surging, your Idle up air control valve is not getting the proper coolant flow across it and the pcm wants to lower the idle speed after a timed warm up but can not. The idle up solenoid is a wax type valve @ the back side of the intake manifold. there are small coolant hoses that go to the units. Warm you car up and feel these smaller coolant hoses on your engine by the intake manifold. there are about 4 of them. be careful not to burn your hands. At any rate you will probably find some that are hot like the same temp as your radiator hoses and some that are not. They all have to have the same temp as your radiator. Also This is assuming that your radiator is coming up to proper temp. If it isn't, you need to fix that first. I.E stuck open thermostat or no thermostat. If you find some that are cooler then the others you need to fix/open the coolant flow restriction. Where I usually find the restricted coolant flow is @ the steel pipe that attaches 2 of the hoses together right near the black intake boot for your airbox near the throttle body. Carefully touch this steel tube, It MAY BE HOT. If its not hot check both hoses go to and from there, they need to be hot, clear the tube with compressed air or what sometimes has to be done is bypassed with a longer 1/4 inch hose and bypasss the tube all together. If all your idle up coolant hoses are warm and you know that there is no Vacuum leaks causing the idle to flare like you said it is, check base idle, check for a bad idle wax valve, what does happen and also check for an internal vacuum leak @ the Charcoal canister mounted on the firewall by your fuel filter. Hope that helps you. I have repaired many a Honda for the same complaint and all caused by coolant flow restriction go to the idle up wax valve assembly and idle control solenoid. Your under hood emissions sticker will show you the exact location ALSO a broken PCV valve will cause the same thing. Some Honda's use plastic pcv valves and the valve inside the pcv assembly breaks away causing a internal engine vacuum leak. Find the pcv, usually near the center of the intake on your car, pinch the hose with needle nose pliers and see if your idle speed drops dramatically. if so pull the pcv out and see if you can see right thru it. if you can, It's broken and in need of replacement.
How do I know when to change the timing belt of a Honda Accord?
You replace it before it breaks! Otherwise, there's a good chance you will need to replace the engine. (Or pay for a substantial rebuild...).There is no way of telling if the belt needs to be replaced, simply by inspecting it.If it looks like it needs to be replaced, (cracks, missing teeth, wear along the edges, polished outer surface...) then it is way past the point where it should already have been replaced & you're running on borrowed time....Check the manufacturer's servicing schedule. Belt replacement intervals can vary from as little as 30,000 miles, up to 150k miles. It varies from vehicle to vehicle.It is usually good practice to replace the water pump & definitely the tensioners at the same time.If the replacement interval is (say) 60,000 miles & your car has done 80,000, replace it now.NB: a few (very few!) engines are non-interference designs. That means that there is no way the valves can ever hit the pistons in the event the belt breaks. So, if the belt does break in one of these engines, no real harm is done & a simple belt replacement is all that's needed. Unfortunately, very few modern engines are non-interference designs & I very much doubt your Honda is one.
Why does my honda civic idle up and down?
there are three usual causes. The engine idle is controlled by an "idle air control valve" or IACV. That valve is an electrical motor that moves a plunger into and out of a passage in the throttle body that allows air to bypass the throttle plates and thereby maintain a target idle speed. the first thing that happens is that carbon (think of soot in a chimney) coats the inside of the air bypass passage and restrits the amount of air that can flow through it. when that happens, the engine starts 'gasping' for air and pulls the throttle plates open and closed as it tries to run. the second thing is that the carbon will gum up the plunger on the IACV so that it doesn't move freely in and out of the passage to regulate the idle. when it moves spastically, the engine speed jumps up and down. a third possibility is that the IACV is electrically dead and that means there is no control of the idle speed and the engine 'hunts' for an idle. there is the possibility of a vacuum leak causing the problem, but in perspective with the top three causes, that possibility is remote at best. The solutions are to clean the throttle body with an aerosol spray throttle body or carburetor cleaner and spray into the port on the inside wall of the venturi on the air filter side. that is the bypass port. be sure to clean the entire venturi while your there by spraying around the throttle plate (the "butterfly")and the throttle plate itself. if that doesn't resolve the condtion, the IACV will have to be removed and cleaned. if that doesn't work, then you need to replace the IACV, hope that helps