What are the symptoms of having a bad ignition control module?
Hard starting and no starting. Especially if the hard or no start condition happens after the car has been driven awhile and is fully warmed up and stalls. Then if you let the car sit until it cools off and it starts right up there’s a very good chance it’s due to a bad module. Like Jon said you should have it tested by someone who knows how to or risk breaking down at the worst time in the most far away place. Good luck and hope this helps.
94 Honda Accord won't start?
Hey, I'm trying to fix my brother's Accord. It's the middle of winter here in Wisconsin, and his car won't start. Cranks healthy, and on the second attempt I managed to get it to start... but letting it idle, it died after about two-three minutes. Now it'll still crank healthy, but won't start. I already checked, and the fuel pump runs and there's plenty of pressure at the fuel rail, so it can't be the filters. The distributor cap, I'm in the process of removing. There was something solid and yellow (almost like a yellow ice, but I had gloves on and couldn't feel it) inside the boots... but I've never used these kinds so I don't know if that's just some compound used by Honda or what It's a 1994 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder, manual transmission. Fuel delivery is good, healthy battery, ran for two minutes then died.
2009 Honda Big Red MUV won't start. When I turn the key it just makes one loud click.?
I thought it was a battery problem so I replaced the battery with a Honda OEM battery. I also changed the spark plug. When I turn the key I just get one loud click. I was having the problem of it cranking and cranking but not starting, when it did that I could put the battery charger on it and get it to start. Then it would eventually keep cranking cold until it was out of battery. Any suggestions? I'm thinking maybe a starter or something? There are really no one in my area that works on atvs etc. What could possible be wrong? Oh I also had the cam shaft, pistons and rings rebuilt this summer.
Why is my 95 Accord LX 2.2 not starting after changing distributor?
Before i got the car i was told the motor would idle/run a little rough/jumpy a few secs after starting it when the weather is humid but then it would go away. I noticed this both times i test drove it and was told the coil in the distributor was going bad. so i got a new Ignition Coil, spark plug cables, and distributor....now it wont start at all. i randomly tried to start it before replacing the distributor and it started. whattt. any ideas on what is wrong? someone please help. thanks ps. 1342 is the firing order and all cables are in order
Can you start a Honda Trail 70 without having a battery?
no you don't need it hooked up at all the kick start goes strait to the moor to get the rpm up the battery uses a motor that spins it like the kick starter
1988 Honda Shadow VT600 won't start. No spark to plugs. New, charged battery. Any ideas?
The quickest and easiest thing for you to do at this point is bring the bike to a competent shop for diagnosis. Tell them that you are willing to pay an hours labor to have the no spark problem diagnosed. A competent mechanic will quickly find the problem and they will be able to give you a very accurate estimate of the cost of repair. If you try to fix it yourself you may end up purchasing un-needed electrical components which the shop WILL NOT TAKE BACK if it turns out you don't need them. In my experience coil failure is very very rare, ignition module sometimes, pulse coil more frequently. Regarding the pulse coil, resistence checks are ok, but, the best way is with a peak voltage meter (which the shop will have). Good Luck ! EDIT: Your regulator rectifier has nothing to do with your ignition system, in fact you could completely remove it from the bike and the bike will still run as long as there is power in the battery, if it was shorted you would have much bigger problems. There is no way to check the regulator part of it untill you get the bike running, the rectifier part of it can be tested, but, it would take alot of explaining which is why I recommend taking it to a shop.
MY 94 HONDA ACCORD SHUTS COMPLETELY OFF WHILE DRIVING WHATS WRONG?
Can you be more specific when you say "shuts completely off". Are all the dash indicators off or just some? Are the headlights off, too? Does if crank (go ruh-ruh-ruh...) but not start, or is the starter completely silent, or does it click? Does it start and then die? It will save you time and money if you diagnose the problem before just changing stuff. We need Details. OK--Here are some possibilities: normally I would suspect the Main (Fuel Pump) Relay, but you say you have already replaced that so I'll cross that off. Next most likely is the ignition switch itself, I think they had problems with them in those years, there might even have been a recall--check with a dealer. Finally and not too likely, but still possible, is a bad igniter (ignition module), but if you replaced the distributor you might have gotten a new one of those unless they transferred the old igniter into the new distributor. So bottom line is it's probably the ignition switch.
My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?
First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,
What are the symptoms of a bad Ignition Control Module?
I have a '94 Pontiac Firebird Formula LT1. Every time I go to drive the car, she stalls at least once. The stall is completely random. When she stalls, I have to let it sit for several minutes before it restarts. (However, one time she fired right back up.) There is no sputter. It's just an instant shut off as if I turned the key over. I had already changed the Opti, ICM, ignition coil, and ignition switch. However, I was told it's common for the ICMs to be defective and I was just wondering if I could find out why my car keeps stalling. Also, there is no crank position sensor on the 1992-1995 LT1.