1997 honda civic car overheating, fans not running.?
first, find out if they are both really not running by starting the car and turning on the air conditioning. then check them. turning on the air conditioning automatically turns on the a/c condensor fan. if that works, then you can drive with the a/c on until you can get the radiator fan working. there are three reasons why the fan won't workj--the actual fan motor may be burnt out, the main relay may be open circuited or the fan temp sensor switch may be open circuited. the easist to test is the fan relay. that is in the underhood fuse and relay box on the passenger rear of the engine compartment. the relay locations are shown on the underside oft he cover. you can simply swap relays with any of the others that have the same pin configuation (they are almost all the same) and run the car to temp. if the fan doesn't come on, the relay is not the cause. the temps switch is on the thermostat outlet and looks like the coolant temperature sensor. that rarely goes bad. the test for the motor is to simply use a fused 12 volt jumper to the fan connector. if the fan runs with power then the problem would be with the temp switch. if the fan doesn't run with direct power then the motor is burnt out. it is possible that both fan motors are burnt out with one having burnt out quite a while back and never noticed and then the second burning out now leaving you with no auxillary cooling. if the condensor fan doesn't come on when you turn the a/c on then its almost always the condensor fan motor burnt out. hope that helps
97 civic not starting?
i can jump straight across the starter and it will start right up, when i turn the key over the lights on the dash come on as normal but when i turn to the crank position it doesnt do anything, the battery is good, the starter is good, ignition relay is good, all the fuses are good. i was driving around then parked my car at my house shut it off to work on my radio and went to turn it back on and it did nothing. as i said i can jump straight across the starter and i can also pop the clutch, the clutch has the switch bypassed. it also has a autopage alarm but the remote broke so i disconnected the reciever. i has been 3-4 months since then so i dont think that could be the source of the problem.
1997 Sonata wont start after breaking hard?
I was on the highway going about 65 when i had to hit the brakes hard. Car died immetialty. would not start, just chugg along trying to turn over. battery is fully charged now, spark plugs are only 3 weeks old, there not flooded either. I had someone suggest the spark plug wires, cadalic converter, or timiing belt. Anyone know whats wrong, or how to find out if these thing are the problem? and how to fix? anything will help thanks
Where is the starter relay located on a 97 honda civic?
there is no starter relay on the 97 Civic. And the main relay only controls the fuel pump and the power to the powertrain control module for the fuel injection. your description sounds like you have a dead battery. If there is not enough current from the battery to the starter then the starter solenoid will click to try to engage but that's all it can do. The starter solenoid, located on the starter motor is in reality a very big relay. I would suggest you start by trying to jumpstart the car. If it starts and runs then you know the battery is dead and needs to be either recharged or replaced. if the engine won't turn with a jump start then the probability is that the starter is seized and will have to be replaced. If getting a jump start is not an option, then get it towed to a shop. Sounds like you have a dead battery. hope that helps
97 Suzuki Sidekick-5speed w/ starting issues..not battery & doesn't sound like the starter motor..suggestions?
I'm assuming since you don't think it's the starter motor, it means the car is turning over? Then your next steps need to be diagnostics of the three parts that make up the engine starting. 1. Spark 2. Fuel 3. Air. To determine if you're getting spark, the easiest way, is to get one of those inductive timing lights and place it around one of the plug wires. Have someone turn the engine over while depressing the timing light. The light should flash. If it doesn't then your problem is with the electronics portion To determine if it's fuel, turn the engine over a few times and pull a plug. You should see fuel on the spark plugs. If not your injectors aren't putting fuel into the engine. If it doesn't appear to be getting fuel, get a fuel pressure tester for your vehicle to determine if you're getting fuel pressure in the fuel rails. Which will mean you'll have to determine if your fuel pump is working. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged, then go after the injectors/fuel pressure regulator. Air typcially means just making sure you're air filter is clean. Otherwise you'll get codes out of your computer to tell you if one of the air sensors has gone bad. But this typically doesn't prevent the car from starting.
What does it mean if your starter is making a grinding noise?
Honda Accord /Civic :Why Starter Making Grinding Noise1.Flywheel should be suspect firstly.You need go ahead and climb back under your 2006 Honda Civic or 2007 Honda Accord and remove the access panel under the bell housing of the transmission. This will give you access to the flywheel. Using a flashlight you can inspect the teeth on the flywheel for any abnormal wear, then use a ½ inch ratchet and correct size socket for the crankshaft pulley bolt, and turn the engine clockwise. This will allow you to slowly inspect the hidden areas of the flywheel that could be damaged. Be sure to mark the flywheel with white out or a marker so you can verify when you start and end as you rotate. If at any time you feel uncomfortable doing this, please enlist the assistance of a certified mobile mechanic. After check ,if the flywheel is damaged ,it will need to be replaced.2.If you are unable to see any issues with the flywheel itself, then the problem may lay in the electrical components of the vehicle.Some of the most common electrical problems are corroded electrical connections, an undercharged or bad battery, or a malfunctioning component:bad neutral safety switch (automatic transmission),bad clutch safety switch (manual transmission),bad starter relay,bad starter solenoid,corroded electrical connections in the starting circuit,worn-out part in the starter motor or some other system component.For example,the ignition switch has failed to supply proper voltage to the starting circuit causing the starter solenoid to partially engage which can create a grinding noise .In this case,you could check the battery/relay/solenoid /ignition switch.If it’s a small problem,you could buy some aftermarket replacements then fix it.If you aren’t sure and don’t know how to do ,maybe a new starter at hexautoparts for your honda accord civic or a certified mechanic can get you back on the road quickly and safely.Anyway,if you hear a harsh or grinding noise as you try to crank up the engine, you may have a loose starter motor (mounting bolts), or a flywheel or pinion gear with broken or worn-out teeth. If the gears on the flywheel and pinion aren't able to mesh properly, all you hear is the sound of metal teeth clashing loudly.Hope that helps.
My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?
First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,