What does the intake manifold runner control valve do?
Many intake manifolds have runners with two different paths to the intake ports. One path is long for low speed torque and the other path is short for high speed power. A control valve is used to direct the air flow to one or the other pathways by the engine control module, according to various parameters and sensors on the engine, including throttle position, engine speed and load.
Engine Swap Chrysler Voyager 1998 - 2003?
Not impossible, but not a likely solution. You would need to swap the ECU and wiring harness as the sensors will not match up. Then you run into issues of the old harness not working for the current instrument cluster and other control modules. Then if you have emissions, you will need the 2003 ECU that you carried over reflashed with the VIN from the 98, so that they match up. You are better off finding a replacement 98 engine/trans.
Help ! 1993 Dodge Shadow - engine turns over but does not start ?
Motor turns over good, either not getting spark or fuel to start ? New coil, plugs, wires, rotor, etc. Could it be the ignition spark pick-up under the rotor in the distributor or maybe fuel pump? Primed the carburator with gas but will not fire to burn the fuel out of the carb. any answers appreciated ???
Is the placement of the starter under the intake manifold of the Northstar engine the worst automotive engineering decision ever, or are there worse?
Are there worse? Of course there are worse.The worst engineered car may be the Mitsubishi 3000GT.The plan was:Start with a front wheel drive car with a V6 mounted transversely (already a bad idea, spacewise)…Then…Make it AWD.Give it room for a driveshaft to fit from the front wheels to the rear wheels.Attach it to the pre-existing LSD’s, almost as an add on.Swap that 5 speed manual into a 6 speed manual, and keep the existing wiring harness, and just reprogram the stock ECU.Add complex active aerodynamics.Add an electronic system not seen since the space shuttle.Add rear wheel steering ON TOP of the newly included LSD/Driveshaft in the back.Oh, and then add a hardtop convertible.… and don’t forget that this is all based on Chrysler build quality (poor, to say the least) and Mitsubishi electrics and metal (finicky and prone to rust, to say the least)Now, imagine being the poor sap who has to work on one of these and trace a problem back to its source.This is the prime example of a car that was designed by a committee of people who all wished to incorporate their ideas into a platform that (at the time) couldn’t accomodate all of them reliably.Just check out that engine bay! To change a timing belt requires the removal of the engine. To change the spark plugs/injectors at the backside of the V6 requires removal of the rear plenum - a 1 hour long job. Imagine if anything else broke - you’d be searching for hours just to find it, and then to repair it would take another day!Its main competitor, the Nissan 300ZX Z32, also had a wildly tight engine bay. However, at the very least, the upper plenum of the 300ZX could be removed within 20–25 minutes, giving full accessibility to everything else.The Mitsubishi 3000GT / Dodge Stealth R/T offered no opportunities to maintain it correctly without having either a parts car or A LOT of money on hand, in a seperate account. They are truly nightmarish cars to own and work on - believe me.EDIT: I have since been informed that it ONLY requires the removal of the front left wheel and the dropping of the suspension to change the timing belt the “garage mechanic” way. However, looking at my tech guide here for the car (from 1993), I read a full engine-out service for the timing belt. I guess, to each their own!
2nd Gen Dodge Cummins?
by 2nd generation you mean 24 valve? the 24 valve is not mechanical. it has a vp44 electronic injection pump. the cummins engine comes from cummins with its own controller bolted directly to the side of teh block. we buy teh engines from them complete with wiring harness and drop tehm in at teh factory. the older trucks(until 04) had a seperate chrysler JTEC controller that controlled transmission, cruise control, and a/c functions.
My Chrysler 1999 300m wouldn't start, i changed the crank-sensor but nothing. what's the problem?
Normally the system works like this if it has a coil module pack or coil like your vehicle has.The PCM will monitor the crankshaft and camshaft sensors and if any of the sensors short out or give a odd reading or fail the PCM will turn off the ASD relay.Normally one wire going from the relay feeds the coil a positive 12 volts so if you take a test probe,ground it, then unplug the coil and use the probe tip to test one of the wires that maybe green/orange in colour the probe should light up with the key in the run position but just for a second.Then when you go to the start position the probe should light up and even stay lit for a second after you release the key. What I do is use a mini jumper cable wire and then use a metal safety pin put the pin into the the coil plug in connector and then clamp one end of the jumper to the pin and the other to the test probe long metal tip.This way you can place the test probe up by the windshield under the hood while you try the key in the run and start position a few times.Again if you notice that the probe fails to light up in both the run/start positions check the battery connections and battery, plus check the test probe via the battery posts make sure it's working and connected properly.Otherwise the fuse that feeds the ASD relay has failed or the relay is faulty or the PCM has detected a crankshaft or camshaft sensor error and since the crankshaft sensor has been changed already I'd test the ASD relay circuit and check ask the wiring and wiring harness;s and test or replace the camshaft sensor. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the again if the test light only comes on for a second in the start position while trying to start it then you know the PCM has properly shut the ASD relay off.This could happen if the sensor issue isn't fixed yet or if the PCM detects a problem in the fuel pump circuit etc.Note that when the code is read usually it isn't precise in telling you that problem the same error code can be related to either of those two sensors and the comp system may not be able to divine which one has the problem. Note that every circuit and comp system can have different designs check online register with autozone.com for free and check the repair info you will access to any possible diagrams/schematics and trouble shooting info all for free. Once you get the coil having power then check for spark and fuel.
Why does my 98 dodge dakota v6 magnum die sometimes while im driving?
I was driving today and it died while going down the road. It was not out of gas and has happened to my mom several times. It drives just fine other than the power steering doesnt work properly. The power steer has plenty of fluid but it only works sometimes and none at all at other times. There it a terrible rattling noise coming from the exuast. When the engine shut off while i was driving about 35to 40 mph, i noticed the rpms dropped to zero. Then a few seconds later the power brakes barely worked and were extremely hard to press. The steering wheel which was already difficult to turn felt as if there were 40-50 more pounds of resistance than it should have been then it locked in place like if it was in park while i was still moving. Luckily the road was perfectly staight and i didnt pull over untill i was rolling at about 3-4mph. After i pulled over i put it in park. Tried to start it for 3 seconds, stopped, tried 5 seconds,stopped . Tried 3 more seconds this time pumping the gas pedal. Nothing except the starter. Called mom for 2-3 minutes and then tried it one more time before i hung up and it turned on, almost died, then idle back to normal. Does this to my mom sometimes. Also the exaust smell rich and it shifts at to high an rpm. Dodge Dakota 1998 V6 Magnum Automatic. What do you think?
Are car engine bay plastic compartment covers necessary? Are they functional or just there to make everything look organized? I want to take them all away to make maintenance easier. Will this affect my car’s longevity?
The plastic covers in an engine compartment serve a few purposes:The obvious, cosmetic purpose of maintaing a “clean” appearanceProtect the motorist from moving parts and dirty surfaces when performing the most basic maintenance items (checking oil). They also hide things that shouldn’t be messed with by untrained people.Controlling engine noise, reducing it in both the passenger cabin and the exterior vicinity of the vehicle (still, a cosmetic purpose)Controlling airflow over parts of the engine and supporting equipment to maintain proper coolingIncreases maintenance time so mechanics can charge more (this probably isn’t the intent of the design, but it is an effect.)Removal of the covers won’t affect performance of the vehicle. Airflow inside the engine compartment doesn’t affect the aerodynamic performance so won’t impact handling, acceleration, or fuel economy.Removal could cause some components, especially electronic components, to operate at a higher temperature thereby reducing their longevity.I don’t know that every car with covers requires them for component cooling, but some probably do. I know that computers often have these internal covers to control airflow, and with engines becoming more computerized with more sensors, proper cooling of those electronics in the otherwise hot engine compartment is important.