Subwoofer not working, but the amp has power?
Hello, The other day i noticed my Subwoofer not working. It was working fine the day before so i checked all cables, ground wires, RCA's, and connections, hoping it was just one of them that was disconnected. Well everything was connected properly so i tested my ground, remote turn on, and battery cable for power, everything was fine. Next was fuses, the inline battery cable fuse is fine, not even any residue from sitting in the hot engine compartment next to the battery. Both fuses on the amp are fine, so i went ahead to pull my dash cover off and check all other fuses, everything is fine. I know the RCA's havent come out of my deck because those have been checked, and i know the amp is getting power because the blue light comes on and all wires running to the amp are supplying power. The only thing i could not check is the speaker wire getting power from the amp (dont have an ohms tester), and the RCA's feeding power. I have ruled out it being a problem with the headunit because all "subwoofer functions" are still adjustable. So if there is anything i've overlooked please let me know, and thanks for your answers. By the way i have an alpine mrp-500 amp, running at 4 ohms and pushing 300 watts to a boston g1-12 single twelve inch woofer.
How do you test an line out converter?
Power the amp up, Unplug the RCA's from the LOC and touch the end of the RCA's with your finger. If the amp and subs are still good then you should hear some type of noise when you touch the tip of the RCA's. If the amp and subs check good then check wiring connections from the LOC to the speakers you are getting your signal from and also make sure those speakers are still playing as well. If this all checks good then 1. You are receiving signal to the LOC. 2. The amp is receiving signal from the RCA's. So there is no other conclusion but to assume the LOC is bad.
Alpine Type R subwoofers blew?
I baught 2 12" Type R Alpine subwoofers ( the latest model) with a 1000watt Orion XTR PRO 1000 amp (100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm) from an aquantance. He mentioned that he got the subs about a year ago. A week after installing them in my car one of the subs blew (I had the amp gain 3/4 way up, low-pass set at 250HZ, bass boost off). I replaced the sub with another type R (brand new). Today, three weeks later, the other sub (the other used one) blew. This time the gain of the amp was only half way up, bass boost off, low-pass stayed at 250Hz. I'm lost at what the problem is. Whren installing the first replacement, I double checked that the wiring was correct. I even upgraded the wiring from 18GA to 14GA high quality wiring. I understand the basics of car audio and installed a whole new speaker system in my car down to the wiring. I'm not a saint, I blast music every time I'm in the car, but I figured the subs could take it, since their rated at 500rms each and plenty of people overpower these subs with no problems. Am I doing something wrong, or are these subs known for blowing out after a year or so (I've read some customer reviews that had similar problems)?
Will my car stereo work if I didn't connect the antenna?
For playing tapes, CDs or MP3s (depending on the technology used) then yes. It is likely that the radio will not lock onto any stations unless they are very close indeed.Virtually every car stereo today uses a multipin ISO connector for power, ground, power antenna and amp switching, with a second connector for the speakers.In days of old, I do recall older radio-cassette units, and even plain old radios that only had connections for the speakers and a switched ignition feed. The ground connection for the radio was through the metal chassis or via the antenna. You either need to add an additional ground wire from the radio case to the chassis, or rely on the grounding from the antenna jack.This posed a problem for me when I fitted a modern radio cassette player (ok, this was perhaps ten years ago) to a 1956 vintage Morris Minor with a positive earth electrical system. Fitting the radio into an insulated (and isolated) mount was not a problem, nor was routing a pair of wires for the electrical feed, but had I used a conventional antenna, the positive ground antenna would have shorted out the negative ground radio, blowing the fuse.The solution was an isolated dipole antenna with built in pre-amp that stuck to the inside of the windscreen. Alternatively, my friend could have enjoyed her cassettes but would not be able to listen to the radio!
Help wiring DVC and an SVC subwoofers. Thanks!?
If one is a SVC it's more than likely a 4 ohm. The DVC has either two 2 ohm coils or two 4 ohm coils. Either way, you're dropping the load on the amp way too low. If the DVC sub has two 4 ohm coils you're dropping the resistance to the amp down to 1.34 ohms. It's not designed to handle that. If it has two 2 ohm coils, you're dropping the resistance down even lower to 0.8 ohms. It's REALLY not made for that. If the sub has two 2 ohm coils you can run them in series. + of the amp to the + of the first coil. The - of the first coil to the + of the second coil. Then, the - of the second coil back to the - of the amp. That will turn that sub basically into a 4 ohm sub. Then, run the other sub from the + of the amp to the + of the sub, then the - of the sub back to the - on the amp. That'll get your load back down to 2 ohms which that amp can handle. If the DVC sub has two 4 ohm coils, your pretty much screwed. Either the amp will be running how it is now, or if you choose to run it the way I described above then you'll only get half the power to the DVC sub because it would be an 8 ohm load, but the SVC would be a 4 ohm load. The amp would run fine, but the SVC sub would drown out the DVC. Find out exactly what you have. You'll need a multi-meter with an ohm meter on it and you'll have to read each coil to find out for sure. Unless the writing is on the magnets??? Maybe???
How can i fix a subwoofer that is making a clapping sound?
First make sure the sub is the problem. I have been brought many subs to look at and it was in a loose box, where one of the sides were making a noise. Heres a little thing to help. If the box is fine, make sure to test it with an ohm-meter. It is usually on most multimeter tools. It should steadily read a number around 4 sometimes 4.2 or 3.8 because a sub is rarely "4 ohm" but it should not jump around and read 1.5 then 6.9 then 3.2 then 7.7 and so forth. Then just buy a new one, the type E's only cost around $50 new
How to check to see if my subwoofer voice coils are blown?
get a speaker or sub, and hook it up to your amp, if the newer speaker or sub works, its the kicker and of course the voice coils (tho check the wires that go into the sub, i have had those fray on me!!!!) remeber to turn the gain all the way down to make sure not to blow whatever else your hooking up also you can take a multimeter and measure the resistance on the CVR thru the connection on the box OR push on the sub, if it moves without noise, most likely the voicecoils are fine
How do i know if one of my voice coils are bad?
Sniff it yeah that's the technical answer he was looking for. I don't feel good, sniff the deuce. Don't take it personal guys and gals, not the most recommended way to do anything. Get a multimeter and set it on the ohms switch, for resistance, and place the positive on the positive and negative on the negative of the one coil you suspect is blown and it should (based on what the speaker is rated at 1.5 ohms) give you the number, plus or minus .1 or .2. The spec.s for that sub can be found on their website; and if no number comes up or less then 1.5 you my friend may have a problem. And leave the sniffing to the dogs. I you don't want to take it out of the box or enclosure test the terminals of the box and if it only reads 1.5 you may have a lose wire or a burnt coil. Good luck.
1200 watt subs too loud for speakers?
OK, here's the deal. If you are talking about running your highs off of the head unit and running the sub off of the amp, then you should be fine. To get a 1ohm load you will either need one sub with two 2ohm voice coils or two 4ohm DVC subs all voice coils wired in parallel to achieve the 1ohm load you are looking for. If you have good, aftermarket speakers with a decent sensitivity rating ( measured sound pressure level at 1 watt output at 1 meter) then there will be no problem. I myself had a very similar set up with up with a 1500 watt RMS Kicker amp and two competition 15's. Two Alpine 4 1/2 coaxials in the front and two KLH 3way 6x9's in the back. I supplemented the highs with two separate tweeters on the front core supports. My system had bass for days and the highs and vocals were crystal clear. Just turn down the bass on the head unit and turn up the gain on the sub amp and you won't have to worry about over driving the full range speakers.