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Best Springs For A 1994 Chevy C1500

CHEVY 350 ENGINE!...CHEAP PERFORMANCE AND POWER UPGRADES!!...QUICK, CHEAP HORSEPOWER!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!?

Hey, i just got an 86 cutlass that has a chevy 350 in it and a 400 trans...i was wondering what are some cheap(as in price, not quality) ways i can upgrade it and get more power and performance out of it. I dont plan on racing it, just want some power on the takeoff and make it feel like a beast....Also, if you can please profide me with some specific brands and pricing!!...THANKS!!

P.S- I'm open to all suggestions that cost less than a few hundred

Anyone know how to change the front coil springs on a 97 gmc 1500?

I own a shop, and what you are trying to do is all wrong. You could get seriously hurt this way. Do Not try to change these springs without removing the lover ball joint. You have found that you can't compress the spring that far, if you do, and it breaks loose it will come out of there with major force. The spring compressor is only useful to get the spring started back in anyway. The vehicle must be on jack stands, and place them under the frame so the weight of the vehicle is not on the lower control arm. Place a jack under the lower control arm, jack it up till it just begins to pick the vehicle up off the jack stand, stop, and keep all the weight on the stand. Remove the cotter pin, and nut from the lower ball joint. Remove the sway bar, shock, and anything else that will keep it from going down all the way. Lower the jack thats under the control arm just a little to put some pressure on the control arm, and stop. DO NOT lower it enough for the spring to pop out. Use a big hammer to smack the control arm around the sides of where the ball joint is. A few good hits, and the ball joint & control arm will seperate from the spindle. All you have to do now is; lower the jack to take the tension off the spring until it falls out. If after you lower it all the way and it won't come out, then use the spring compressor to get it the rest of the way. Put the new spring in position (pay attention to pads at top for spring to sit in) and jack the floor jack up until you can get the ball joint back in with the nut back on it. Tighten the nut to specs, install the cotter pin, and you are done. Sometimes a new spring will be hard to get in, and you will have to use the compressor to get it started, but I have never seen anyone use a spring compressor to change the springs with. There is just too much tension on the compressor this way, and it could break resulting in someone getting injured or killed. Know what you are doing when it comes to messing with things that has a lot of tension on it. Many people have been killed this way, and you are no exception. I cannot stress how dangerous this job is when done incorrectly.
Glad to help out, Good luck!!!

How many cams does my 1967 283 c.i. V8 chevy engine have?

The chevy V8 engines (small block 265, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400,... Big block 348, 366, 396, 402, 409, 427, 454, 502)

Uses only 1 camshaft. Its a single cam engine with 16 valves. 2 valves per cyl, 1 intake and 1 exhaust

The cam is in center of block, the crank turns cam via timing chain. The cam turns ad pushes up lifters, that moves pushrods, that causes the rocker arms to move and opens up the valves.

Theres more cam profiles than I can count for the SBC engine. The parts that needs replacing depends on the cam's lift and duration specs.

At the bare min. you will need need lifters for install. Valves shouldnt need replacing unless bad (burnt, bent, etc)

If its a higher lift cam, you will need new valve springs that can handle the new cam's lift

Depending on cam's duration, lift, and LSA you may run into a valve to piston clearance prob and need to replace pistons wth ones with a deeper valve relife in them, or have your's fly cut

Do you have to flip the leaf springs under the axle to drop the rear end of a Chevrolet Silverado?

No, and that is a bad idea. While it will work there is a chance the leaf will break as it was not tempered to flex that way.On most leaf spring trucks you can lower it by moving the spring mount to the frame, alternatively, you can use lowering blocks. Be aware however you are decreasing the amount of travel of that axle. More than a 2 inch drop will require shorter bump stops and or modifying the frame rails with a C-Notch. The appropriate length shocks will need to be installed.I suggest if you intend to move forward with this you consider a kit from one of the major players such as Belltech as suspension mods done wrong can adversely affect the ride and safety of the vehicle.

Is it easily possible to mount a ford nine inch rear end o my 89 chevy short wide 1500?

WHY???
There is no reason to do that unless you just wanna say:"I got a 9""
The 14 bolt full floater chevy rear axle is one of the strongest axles you could put in
Even a 14 / semi-float would be better. The 14 is stronger than a Dana 60.
The only better axle you could put in might be a Dana 80, but there is no reason you would need that. (unless you are going rock racing)

Edit: Chevyrace: you make good points,but without knowing what his plans were for the truck, and for ease of installation, I recommended the 14.
Putting in a 9" (paying someone to do the work) will cost considerably more if there is a lot of fab work involved. If he wants to drag race, he may as well put a 4 link in it too.(LOL)

What is the difference between a Chevrolet C2500 and a Chevrolet K2500?

c= 2wd
k= 4wd
year and model make a big difference too, along with engine and trans type.
example, just because you have a 84 c2500, doesn't mean you have the same style dash as a 81 c2500, nor the same dash, heater control valve, suspension springs, radiator radiator hoses and so on

What's the difference between a Chevy Suburban C1500 and C2500?

If the 2500 is an 8-lug wheel; the brakes, axles, suspension, are heavier duty. The vehicle has a higher load rating.
If the 2500 is not the 8-lug wheel, then it is just a half-ton with heavier rated springs, but not heavier brakes or axles. It was designed for a vehicle that was going to be used to mainly carry loads.

The 1500 is just a half ton rated SUV.

Now that I think about it, I think that the light-duty 2500 was only available on 4wd models.

What is the towing capacity of a 1991 Chevrolet Cheyenne C1500?

Without meaning disrespect for other answerer's, engine power is not a big factor in determining how much load you can tow. Tow capacity ratings are more concerned with the vehicle structure and transmission and axle strength. Rear springs are also a consideration,as heavier duty trucks have thicker spring packs. Also,if it is an automatic trans truck,a trans fluid cooler is a must if you want to haul heavy loads such as a car. The extra weight will overheat the transmission and burn the fluid.
I have a '96 Chevy K1500 305 automatic. I tow my '74 Chevy Nova on a 16' tandem axle trailer. The total load is about 4500 lbs and it pulls fine if you are not in a hurry. You won't have any trouble towing this car home. Good luck on your project!

Do I need to replace shocks when installing a lowering kit?

I have a 95' Chevy C1500 regular cab pick up and am considering installing a lowering kit. The kit I am looking at is a 2" drop in the front and a 4" drop in the rear. However, I just installed new stock replacement shocks on my truck, if I am going to be putting in shorter springs will I need shorter shocks as well?

What motor would you swap into a 1995 Chevrolet 1500 Truck?

I would start with a 383 short block. This would give you a good bottom end to build on. A short block would be a much better idea than a complete crate motor for your purposes. Why waste money on buying a complete engine only to get rid of the cylinder heads and manifolds before you even install the engine.

With a short block you would have the block, crank, rods, and pistons. You could go from there.

See the links below. You can get a 383 short block for as little as $2000.

However, there is something to be said for buying the complete crate engine. For an engine to make decent power all of the parts must be matched to the application. The heads must work with the intake, carburetor and cam. The cam must be matched to the heads and carburetor. The carburetor must be matched to the engine size, cam, and heads. Etc. Get it wrong and you just spent a lot of money on an engine that does not perform up to its potential. A crate engine takes the guess work out of the equation. Most crate engines are built with parts that have been matched and proven on the dyno. Instead of spending $2000 on the short block and another $3000 on parts to complete your engine you could spend $4500 on a more complete 383 crate motor that makes 450 dyno proven horsepower. See the third link.