Bolt broke off in motorcycle engine block, how to remove?
Those easy outs are crap and usually bust off inside the hole. That's what happened to me and with an aluminum block, blowing it out with a torch is out of the question. Take my word for it, getting a busted easy out isn't easy and if certainly won't come out. I ended up using a Dremel tool (little high speed drill that accepts assorted grinding bits). See if you can get diamond coated grinding bits and with several hours of tedious sweating and a lot of cussing, you should be able to grind it out. You will have to retap the hole and just be careful you don't bust the tap off in there, especially if it's a blind hole . Been there, done that. More sweating and way more cussing. Many SAE bolts are slightly larger than metric, so you may be able to retap the hole to accept the slightly larger SAE. You may have to drill the hole in whatever the bolt goes through a bit larger as well. This is what I had to do with a cylinder head bolt that busted off in the engine case. No problems afterwards.
My alternator bolt snapped, and is stuck in my engine block. What do I do?
Not a big fan of ez outs, if the bolt isn't already stuck they work fine, but if the bolt is stuck, normally they break off too, making the problem worse. If you don't have the capabilities, take it to a pro. Honestly, I have been working on multiple cars of my own for 20 years, including rebuilding automatic transmissions, rear ends, and motors, and I still wouldn't trust something like this to myself. Getting in there perfectly straight, without drilling into the head and creating an oil or water leak, is not my forte. I agree with welding to the bolt if any of it is sticking out, best option there is if it's available. I suspect something else is seriously wrong (or the bolt was overtorqued and thus in there very tightly) if the alternator broke free. I've never seen nor heard of that happening, something happened to cause it.
How do you remove a drillbit that broke off in engine block?
Call an industrial tool supplier and tell them you need a tap remover. What it is, is a hex bolt with 2 or 3 or 4 (depending on the tap you are trying to remove) inserts that slide down into the tap flutes. you then turn the tool and remove the broken tap. The other alternative is to EDM it out, in which a tiny wire is used to burn down through the tap. This will cost some money to have done, as the equipment is expensive. What you might try, since the tap sounds very fragile, is taking a flat-faced pin punch, and hitting the remains of the tap right in the center. The hope is to fracture the tap and then extract it in pieces. You could also find someone with an Oxy-Acetylene torch who can use a very small flame to heat the broken tap, and then tap it to break it up. This is the method least likely to damage the parent metal. Also, after the temper is removed with the torch, you may be able to drill out the tap. You can forget about trying to drill it out if you don't heat it. The tap material is harder than the drill bit, and the drill bit will just wander off to the side and ruin the hole.
Can you repair a cracked engine block?
It depends on how big the crack is, where it is, what the block is made of ( most often cast iron, sometimes aluminum, etc ) and how much the engine is worth.I was once a pro welder, and fixed a few blocks myself, if the crack was in an easy spot to get at it. Tougher jobs went to a specialist shop with better equipment, and yes, more skillful welders as well, lol.I have even fixed a block with a hole in it by simply patching it using a product called JB weld, but the hole was not in a spot where there was any oil or water passages or near any bearings or cylinder wall or bolt hole. It was made by a broken connecting rod. That repair cost only about ten bucks for materials and took only a few minutes and that engine ran for years afterward with no problems.Most of the time it’s possible to find a used block in good usable condition for less than it costs to repair a cracked block. New blocks are generally available for any engine less than about ten to fifteen years old.I don’t think it is possible to build a typical engine block using three D printing at this time, nor will it be possible in the near future, at least not using the usual materials, such as cast iron or aluminum, and without having to take the semifinished product to a specialist machine shop to have all the bearing seats, cylinders, etc, finished to close tolerances measured down to a couple of thousandths of an inch or so. Maybe some outfit like NASA could do it, but if they did, such a block would probably cost a million bucks.THREE D printing is mostly talk and not much in the way of reality, at least for now, if the end product has to be really accurately made and made out of very strong materials, except maybe for one off items such as an experimental model.I just read a piece about a SUPPOSEDLY THREE D printed house for instance, with video. The machine used was NOT a printer at all, it was an EXTRUDER that dispensed a very thick viscous concrete product like soft serve ice cream, and while it worked to build the walls, it was obviously only capable of building the walls, it could not extrude doors, or windows, or electric wire, or plumbing pipes, or a toilet, etc.I was impressed, but that house was NOT PRINTED, lol. It was squeezed out of a nozzle like toothpaste. 3d tech is still in the toddler stage, when you get right down to the nitty gritty, but it does show great promise!
How can i remove a stuck engine bolt?
I have had similar problems in the past. Here are two methods that ive used: 1. An easy out. you drill a hole about a half inch into the bolt. An easy out has reverse threads on it and will grab when you place it in the hole you drilled in the bolt. as you turn counter clock wise it will sink into the bolt and grab usually releasing the stuck bolt. Any parts house should have an assortment of easy outs and the correct drill bit to tap the center of the bolt 2. I have also had to take a dremmell tool with a small grinder wheel and cut a slot in the top of the bolt and take a BIG HONKIN screwdriver and use a pipe wrench on the screwdriver handle for leverage. good luck I hope one of thees methods works for you
Will JB weld work on the broken guide pin hole? Aluminum block engine.?
Or any epoxy? This is not a crack, its a missing chunk from the outside of the the guide pin hole on an aluminum block engine. Causes oil to leak. Should I put the epoxy over the guide pin or will that seal in the pin and make it really hard to get the clutch cover off next time? Or should I fill in the hole and pull the guide pin out of the cover and use no pin.