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Can A Torque Converter Lock My Engine Up If Installed Wrong

96 ram, 5.2l 4 speed, torque converter is locked?

Ok, I had a code for bad tcc solenoid, I replaced this along with the kickdown solenoid. Put everything back together and filled it to spec. Started it and same thing, the torque converter is locked up. This happened on my way to school, I came to a stop and it stalled. I had to neutral drop it to get out of the intersection and make it home. I had it serviced a month prior and i was told there was a signifficant amount of metal shavings in there if it makes a difference. Transmission was rebuilt about 3 years ago. Any ideas? It is the 2wd model. thanks.

What control the torque converter lockout on a 90 Chevy w/700r4?

People are retarded.

700R4 is not PCM/ECM controlled. It has a TV cable to control line pressure.

TCC itself MIGHT be controlled by the ECM, just depends. What is the part number of your ECM?

Non-ECM TCC controlled 700's use a vacuum switch on the firewall (manifold vacuum) and a switch on the brake pedal to disengage.

Do not run a toggle, fix the problem. You can ruin the TCC easily, because the clutches in it are not very strong nor large, and will burn if used improperly.

Filling torque converter before installing??? yes or no.?

You can put 1-2 qts in the torque converter, but it will fill up on its own anyway. Most sites I researched said that you should pour in 1-2 qts. Just check the transmission fluid level after you start the engine. When I installed my transmission, I didn't put any in, had no problems. I didn't want to deal with any spilled fluid while installing the tranny.

If your car is able to move, then the torque converter is filled.

One blogger said he never pre-filled any of the over 200 he did. But I wonder how truthful is statement is.

The shaking and vibrating could be a loose motor mount or maybe mis-wired or faulty plug wires. I had a shaking engine under acceleration due to faulty plug wires. Look under the hood when it's dark outside. Have a TRUSTED friend hold the brake while putting the transmission into drive. A load can cause arcing and sparking on the plug wires.

TH400. Can a torque converter be installed on flexplate, before transmission?

in many situations you may placed the 5 or so quarts in the pan and then initiate it up. as quickly because it starts then you sell off in greater this is in many situations around 9 greater quarts. in case you are able to to get the final bit in jack the back wheels off the floor and placed it in kit. Run it in direction of the low ranges and opposite. the reason you do it with the wheels off the floor is so there is not any load on the transmission previously the fluid is totally circulated to the place it desires to be. If its not taking any further fluid its obtainable that for the duration of setting up the torque converter slipped and is not captivating the pump top. There are 3 steps to seating the converter. First step is the 1st set of splines, the 2nd step is yet another set of splines, those hit incredibly immediately then it slides some million/2 inch at which component it desires to have interplay the pump. once you get the engine and trans bolted up the torque converter ought to have the potential to slip out and in some million/2 inch. If it replaced into touching the flex plate actual away it replaced into not seated into the pump. in many situations in case you used the bolts to press it in and then ran it the pump would be broken and its going to might desire to return aside to interchange the pump and get all the shavings out of the the remainder of the trans.

Torque converter will not spin?

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/tech...
All about torque converters.

There is too much to copy and paste.
Click the hyper link.

ADDED:
There are two parts that go into the transmission:
Pump drive spline
Gear drive spline.

On the opposite side is the centering hub (seats inside the crank), and mating surface.(where the bolts go)

The converter should not seat fully into the transmission.
The drive splines should engage the transmission receiver yokes, but not completely rest inside them.

If you are having problems getting the torque converter to seat into the engine side, when you tighten the bolts, it will seat properly as you tighten them.
The converter should NOT completely seat into the transmission.

ADDED #2
There should be "some" play in the system.
It should NOT be a tight fit.

ADDED:#3
Did you seat the converter into the transmission prior to assembly?
The splines and yokes may not be fitted properly.

Symptoms of a bad torque converter?

Why you would put in a new trans and leave the old torque converter in is strange to me. The bottom line is does the car move? If so the torque converter is working. If the car moves but has a hard time getting going the converter could be the cause of that.
The converter gives the engine a fluid link so you are able to stop without having the engine stall like it would if it were stick and you didn't push in the clutch when stopping. To put it simple it is a fan pushing fluid onto another fan, when the volume get to a point it will make the second fan turn. In your case it will move the car.

Yes. Torque converters are very common on extremely-heavy-duty vehicles that need both the robustness of mechanical transmission and the gradual build-up of enormous traction effort for acceleration from start. The torque converter here is used to multiply the torque to be delivered to the driving clutch plate after it engages with the driven plate. Note that, however, many of these vehicles nowadays have automated mechanical transmission (AMT) instead of manual, but the two types of transmission have the same basic structure and are far distinct from automatic transmission.The best-known heavy-duty converter coupled with mechanical transmissions is probably the ZF WSK 400. This model can be found on a number of European extreme-heavy-haulers, such as the (older) Mercedes-Benz SLT series. It also prevails on all-terrain mobile cranes such as those huge ones built by Liebherr.ZF provides a package called TC Tronic where "TC" stands for "torque converter". This package is intrinsically an AS-Tronic AMT with an additional WSK torque converter module. It also has a built-in intarder for hydraulic braking. Again, the torque converter is primarily for start-up from still and when the vehicle is in motion, the torque converter locks up and the package functions like a mechanical transmission. This preserves the drive train because the acceleration is smooth as the torque is boosted.An example is this 2001 Mercedes-Benz Actros 4153 SLT. This truck has a Mercedes G240-16 16-speed manual transmission with a ZF WSK 400 torque converter.Mercedes-Benz Actros 4153 8x4 SLT Titan 250 Ton Push and Pull The lastest model in the Actros SLT range now offers automated mechanical transmission (AMT) as standard. Also, Mercedes switches to Voith as the supplier for the torque converter. But still, the philosophy is the same with the ones with non-automated manual transmission.Mercedes-Benz SLT: A game-changer - Heavy Torque The structure of a torque converter coupled with a mechanical transmission can be observed in this sectional view of the ZF TC Tronic. Again, the TC Tronic is an AMT, but has the same basic structure.http://www.ditzj.de/fora/buzzy/transportch/D90_19981(Source: Ditzj.de - Welcome)

What kind of car, how sophisticated is the torque converter to be replaced, and how easy is it to get access to the parts needed to do the job?

TH400 transmission torque converter question?

Normally you would put the 5 or so quarts in the pan and then start it up. As soon as it starts you then dump in more which is usually around 9 more quarts. If you can to get the last bit in jack the back wheels off the ground and put it in gear. Run it through the low ranges and reverse. The reason you do it with the wheels off the ground is so there is no load on the transmission before the fluid is fully circulated to where it needs to be. If its not taking any more fluid its possible that during installation the torque converter slipped and is no longer engaging the pump properly. There are 3 steps to seating the converter. First step is the first set of splines, the second step is another set of splines, these hit fairly quickly then it slides about 1/2 inch at which point it needs to engage the pump. When you get the engine and trans bolted up the torque converter should be able to slide in and out about 1/2 inch. If it was touching the flex plate right away it was not seated into the pump. Usually if you used the bolts to press it in and then ran it the pump will be damaged and its going to have to come apart to replace the pump and get all the shavings out of the rest of the trans.

What are some Symptoms of a Torque Converter starting to Fail?

I own a transmission shop, and have seen this a lot. Changing the fluid & filter will really help the problems. Get a bottle of some stuff called "Lubegard" from a parts store, and add that to the fluid change. It will fix the sticking valves that you have, and return the operation of the tranny back to good as new. With the Lubegard, get the one thats in the white bottle, or the one that is not for foreign cars, but I believe it is the white, and not the black bottle.
As for the Torque Converter, it will do wild things IF the engine has a miss in it under a hard pull, as in a bad spark plug breaking down under a load, like going up a steep hill in lock up. Use a bottle of STP (black bottle only) fuel injector cleaner to 3/4 tank of fuel every 3rd tank, and that should make the engine a lot happier. As for the Catalytic Converter, it shouldn't make it do anything out of the ordinairy if it is cracked. Have it welded up, or put a new free flowing one on it.
The Torque Converter can go bad, and many people mistake an engine miss, torque converter shudder, or an engine vacuum leak for a converter going bad. An out of adjustment brake light switch can also cause the torque converter to no lock up sometimes. A sticking valve within the transmission is the usual cause of an erratic lock up that will mimic a bad converter. Rule out the obvious before you assume its going bad, and/or have it rebuilt. To be honest, even a bad throttle position sensor will make you think the converter is going bad. If you will do what I have suggested, you should see great results.
Part 2:
A hole in the cat converter can make this noise. How? When you are pushing on the gas, and let off quickly, it will suck cold air into the exhaust, and cause a bang. You may have a bad dough-nut gasket or some type of leak in the exhauset system allowing the air to be pulled into it, and yes it will make a loud bang, and could even split the pipe or cat converter. Has your vehicle been louder than usual kind of like it has a leak in the exhaust?
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

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