What is the best fertilizer for coconut trees?
The cheap and reliable fertilizer for coconut trees is salt. Yes, the salt you use for cookingThe use of sodium chloride (NaCl) or common salt as fertilizer is a practical means of increasing coconut production. Salt is the cheapest and best source of chlorine to increase copra yield (Table 1).Chlorine deficiency in coconut is widespread in inland areas. A PCA survey conducted nationwide showed that at least 40 coconut-producing provinces are severely chlorine deficient.Advantages:Cheapest coconut fertilizerVery easy to applyAccelerates crop growth and developmentIncreases copra weight and number of nutsMinimizes leaf spot damageEnvironment-friendly under judicious practiceBenefits:Increase thickness of coconut meatIncrease number of nutsMakes coconut drought resistantMakes coconut resistant to pests and diseasesField ApplicationAmount of salt: 2 kgs. per tree/year (3 years application).Do this at the start of the rainy season:Make a circular canal/trench (with a radius of 1 meter from trunk base) of 3 inches deep. Spread the salt evenly in the circular canal and cover with soil.In sloping or hilly areas, dig 10 equidistant holes around the trunk base. Place salt in holes and cover with soil.
What is the difference between compost manure and green manure?
A “green manure” is an intentionally planted crop that is grown during the off season on a plot of ground. Prior to seed formation the crop is killed off and the vegetative matter is somehow incorporated into the existing soil. It could be turned under into the soil or it could be simply cut down at ground level and dropped in place.Legumes are often used as green manure because they have rhizobia within their roots that make nitrogen available for the plant, killing off the plant makes it available for crops planted in-season.Additionally, the vegetative matter breaks down and improves soil structure. In sandy soil it helps to hold onto water and reduces nutrient leeching. In clay soil it helps make that soil lighter - working clay soil it's otherwise difficult.With traditional composting (e.g., using a bin or a pile to encourage (typically primarily aerobic) decomposition) the vegetative matter is mixed so that there is, ideally, a good balance of nitrogen and carbon (e.g., grass clippings and leaves, manure and straw) and adequate moisture and oxygen. Microbial activity breaks down the material and produces a compost that can be added to soil, either incorporated at or prior to planting time or ”side dressed” ( shoveled near established plants) to give them a boost.Arguably, off season use of green manure may br less labor intensive, particularly if one “chops and drops” the cover crop in situ. It also minimizes soil disturbance.On the farm we compost animal manure (chicken, duck, goat, horse and donkey) all the time and it is a very low ceremony affair. It collects or is collected and allowed to age. The aged manure can then be directly applied to the garden beds or mixed with soil. Chicken and duck manure are both particularly “hot” - high in nitrogen and likely to kill young plants if applied - initially and need time to age.Often just mixing the manure with straw or wood chips and giving it time is all that is necessary to produce a very rich soil amendment.
Compost? Any ideas on how I can start?
i see you have gotten a few books already, so short and sweet, here it is; forget the bins and such, in an unused corner of the yard (mine is out behind the garage) any yard waste except weeds (why encourage them) and any vegetable scraps from the kitchen, coffee grounds and tea bags too. whenever you get about a foot of material, cover it with a couple of inches of dirt then continue with fresh waste. to jump start the process in the spring, pour a half cup of sugar into a gallon of water and pour over the pile, this will get the bugs and worms going to work on breaking it down. turn the pile over come fall, (i flip mine to a spot next to itself and start a new pile in the old spot) the original pile will be ready to go the following spring. so i always have two piles going, the current years and next years compost. i found that leftover flat soda from party's works just as well as the sugar and water. if you end up with too much compost in a couple of years, spread it on the lawn, it works better than chemical fertilizers anyways. good luck, and hope this helps.
How do you use your cut grass to make fertilizer?
Buy a mower with mulching blade(s). They will automatically grind clippings to very fine pieces which makes it easier for them to decompose rapidly. Grass clippings contain phopsphorous(P), an essential element for grass growth. If you cut your lawn at correct times (every 5 days during peak growing season, 7-14 days at other times) there will be no need for bagging & disposal , thus you are saving time and hassle. You will still need to add fertilizer with Nitrogen(N) and Potassium(K) during the growing season for optimum growth and health, but you will not need to apply a fertilizer with P. P is easily stored by soil and unless you have very sandy soil, you will build a healthy level of P in your soil by mulching clippings. You also want to check the PH of your lawn as well and periodically add Calcium to lawn once a year. This can be easily done with lime. Lime will also raise the PH of your lawn, which is often beneficial. If you want to know exactly what the level of the essential growth nutrients are above you can have soil tested by a lawn care company or take a sample of soil to local co-op extension. It usally cost between $10-$20. The results of which will give you a much clearer indication of the levels of nutrients you need to add.