How do you maintain rims that take inner tubes in the tireson motorcycles and rims that dont need inner tubes?
you maintain all wheels the same; no buckles due to hitting things, no corrosion, (also, bearings ok), no run out (wobbly rims), no ovality (wobbly as they go round). tyres can be tubeless (no inner tube) usually on a cast alloy wheel but BMW did some where the old style spokes went to the wheel rim edges tyres can be tubed, meaning they need a rubber air bag inside which needs a rim tape of stout rubber to cover the top ends of the spokes, where those screw into the rim. tyres of either sort die in UV light after a few years, they wear on the road and lose tread depth, they get knocks and bruises. Tyres need renewing every 3 years, even if the tread is not completely worn down, as they get hard and lose grip on the road. For rims, think corrosion, especially where you cannot see it (inside the wheel 'well' where the tyre sits. So constant cleaning outside, and a three year expert inspection and tyre change, is a good routine, Weekly, check rim edges for 'dings' and check tyre condition and pressure. hope that helps.
Why does my bike tube pinch at the valve whenever I put it and the tyre on the rim, no matter what?
Hmmm.Did you fasten the stem nut on the presta valve all the way down before putting the tire back on and re-seating the tire bead on the rim?Don’t do that.Here’s a photo from makegood bikes:You see how he has the stem of the presta valve tightly gripped and is pulling it downward? Do that after you push it upward while seating the bead on that part of the rim. After the bead is correctly seated, pull the valve to full extension through the valve hole. Then tighten the stem nut.You might even want to start seating the tire at the valve portion of the rim (using the above technique) and work your way outward around the rim from there.Oh, and deflate the tire tube as much as possible. Seriously, pull the valve core if you can. (much easier on a Schrader valve) 700cc rims and tires have pretty tight tolerances and it’s a little too easy to pinch a tube.Oh! Tire levers. Proper tire levers. I prefer Park although I understand some wrenches prefer other brands. But you probably already knew about them.
Why are valve amps the best?
Valve amps aren’t always the ‘best’ but it comes down to the sound under override conditions that gives people this impression .An explanation: The basic aim of a valve or transistor is to take a small signal and amplify it so that the signal can drive a speaker of some sort. The limitation of this amplification is the supply voltage used within the circuit. An amplifier will typically have a positive and negative supply rail and the amplification of the signal is limited by these voltages.The primary difference between a transistor and a valve is what happens to the output signal as it approaches the supply voltage. A transistor will ‘clip’ to the supply voltage. This means there will be an abrupt change between the desired output signal and the supply voltage and this abrupt change can be heard as distortion. Unfortunately, this type of distortion is not nice on the ears and in fact is far worse sounding than deliberate guitar distortion and thus is best to be avoided.On the other hand, a valve will provide a gentle transition from the desired output signal to the supply voltage resulting in a distortion with a much ‘warmer’ sound that is often quite desired. Thus valve amplifiers can be over driven to good effect and as you crank up the volume you don’t have to avoid overdrive unless your going for a very clean sound.All of that being said, valves can often color the sound compared to a transistor. A transistor can more faithfully reproduce the input signal as long as it’s kept within a safe range. Thus you might hear people talk about a transistor amplifier having a ‘clean’ or ‘cold’ sound compared to a valve amplifier.To sum it up, the best advice, try the amp with your chosen instrument and decide with your ears if you like the sound it produces.
New bike inner tube problem. Help?
As a certified, experienced and gainfully employed pro bike mechanic, these are both good answers! To answer you: Both are possible. May be both a puncture and a pinch flat but thats rare. Pinch flats are due to underinflation and/or simply compressing tire too much. Ensure you're tires r inflated to recommeded pressure as indicated on tire's sidewall. I'll bet the cause is from your previous flat? Locate the puncture on ur tube (pump it up n feel for it or see it bubble up underwater) and find out where it is inrelation to the rim or tire and resolve the issue if still there. 'm figuring ur real question is: "Whats the best solution against flats?". All things considered(flat resistance, overall tire performance, price, replaceability, availbility), your solution is this: Any Continental brand tire w the Safety System or Security System or Schwalbe brand tire w SmartGuard AND replace your tube with a new, correctly sized tube. Further protection: Thick-walled tubes Sealants that seal the tube from outer punctures (Slime brand most trusted) Tire liners that fit betwn tube and tire (Mr. Tuffy brand most trusted) Prayer! :) Hope these helped! Ride On! :)
I have a 2008 Honda civic si. I was told the valve cover gasket is leaking. Don't see any residue on the valve cover. Should I get a second opinion?
Honda’s, as well as many other vehicles have limited travel valve cover bolts that hold the valve cover on the cylinder head. What this means is that unlike older cars when the valve cover get gets old and engine heat has caused it to shrink a little, you can’t just re-torque the valve cover bolts and make them a bit tighter. That said, Before you repair anything on any vehicle, you need to determine the cause of the problem. There might not be anything at all wrong with your valve cover gasket, your EGR valve might be clogged or restricted and the excessive internal engine pressure is forcing oil to leak out past the gasket. So replacing it still won’t solve your problem. It might cure it for a short time until the pressure becomes great enough to blow past the new gasket as well. So make certain that you are taking it to a qualified tech who has experience working on Hondas. He will know the instant he checks the old gasket, that if there is nothing wrong with it, that the problem lies elsewhere.
Bought a new bike with 700c x25 tires. I'm rather large, so I'm buying 28mm tires. Do I need new tubes to fit the size tire?
Brand new to cycling. Trying to lose weight and be more active so I bought a new Schwinn Phocus 1600. Looking to not have flats all the time so I'm thinking of getting some 28mm or larger tires to support the weight.
What's the best way to disconnect air conditioner tubes for relocating?
If you are not QUALIFIED to service HVAC you have no business trying to do anything to the lines. It takes specialized tools & equipment and the wherewithal to use them. Plus, you have to be EPA certified to deal with refrigerants... The process involves doing whats called a pumpdown to place all the liquid refrigerant into the condensing unit, then shutting off special valves behind the schrader valves. Then, yes the lines are cut but not before using a recovery machine for any remaining refrigerant the lines. Then the lines have to be moved very carefully as if a kink happens that pretty much it for that line.... Then the lines (unless they are flare) are welded back in place, nitrogen sweeped, evacuated, & leak checked. Then, the system has to be re opened and re-evaluated for performance and whether or not additional refrigerant is needed or more has to be recovered based on the difference in line set length. Look, bottom line: if you gotta ask on this forum you got no idea what you are doing. ...Let a pro handle it.
Are car tyre repair kits effective on bicycles? I am fed up with changing the inner tyre on my folding bike.
I speak from experience: I used the aerosol tyre sealants in my beater bike, both as a quick fix & as a preventive measure.TL;DR - It will work, but only in specific situations. In this case, the cure may be worse than the bite.Good news is that they work! The sealant (which is probably better than the latex used for tubeless tyres) goes around whatever is causing the puncture, effectively preventing further leaks & the propellant substitutes for air to inflate your tyre.Sounds too good to be true, so why aren’t all cyclist using this?First is that bicycle tyres (with the exception of the fattest fat bike ones) require higher pressures compared to automobile tyres, & too high for what an aerosol can can reasonably supply. If you’re using this to inflate your totally flat road bike tyre, you can probably go up to 30 PSI before needing to top it up with a pump.This fix only works for very small punctures; hedge clippings & stray bits of wire. You’re out of luck with gashes & even pinch flats. This is because the sealant solidifies on contact with air slowly & will remain liquid in bigger punctures.For most punctures, you probably need to leave the object puncturing your inner tube where it lie. Tyre sealants solidify around a slow leak & by removing whatever it is puncturing your tube, the rate of leakage might become too high for the sealant to work properly.It is also probably worth mentioning that by using sealant inside your inner tube, you are effectively condemning it to being unrepairable - the sealant will get in the way of the patch glue & stop it from being able to make good contact with your tube. If you’ve seen anyone take off a tubeless tyre, you’ll know how nasty the sealant is.So, essentially, experience tells me that it’s possible. However, I’ve been able to source good inner tube patches that don’t cost as much as the tube itself, & have since gone back to patching what I can.P.S. - A dirty little secret of mine - my bike shop doesn’t offer patching services. Customers who come in to have their tubes changes (surprisingly many) often throw the old ones away. These tubes I take home to repair & keep my supply practically inexhaustible.