Car amplifier shortage somewhere?
Everything is connnected as it is supposed to. When I move the 12v wire around the green light on the side comes on and might stay lit for a while but then sometimes the light doesnt want to come one. It is not the amp, I got it tested three times. It works, but some wire isnt cooperating. Does anyone have any makeshift ways of fixing this?
Will replacing your car speakers fix a shortage?
I plan on replacing the factory speakers in my '07 Mazda 6 but I believe there's a shortage somewhere in the car because the driver side component speakers don't play anything 99% of the time, but occasionally I'll be driving down the freeway and notice that there's actually sound coming out of..plus, my passenger side headlight goes out frequently--but that's another issue. My question is: if I replace the speakers in the front, will both of them work? I also plan on doing the "Big 3 Upgrade" but I'm not even 100% sure that's going to fix the problem and it's going to bug the hell out of me if I put these Kenwood's in and I STILL have this problem..Any suggestions would be great.
Can interior lights in a modern day car drain the battery in a short period of time?
It helps to be specific about the parameters in the question:interior lights: how much power do they need?modern day car: irrelevant, although they may use power-efficient LEDs, they may also use more of them. The total power consumption of the interior lights is all that mattersthe battery: what is the battery’s nominal capacity? is it in good condition? is it fully charged? what temperature is the battery operating in? I will assume you will use one (and only one) regular car battery (that is not designed to be drained).short period of time: this can mean anything depending on context, ranging from a couple of minutes to a couple of days.While the answer is most likely no, it’s often good to start with worst-case parameters. It’s better to be safe than sorry.Let’s assume you’ve got serious interior lighting and they draw 25W of power.You use your car for short trips only and your small 40 Ah battery is already a couple of days old. The battery’s capacity is only 50% of its original capacity, and it’s only 50% charged, and you can only use 50% of that capacity if you want to avoid starting problems. That means that you may only draw 5 Ah before you get into trouble.That gives you only 2 hours before you run into trouble.Of course, if your interior light bulbs use only 5W and you use a new, fully charged, 80Ah battery, then the answer is about 4 days, assuming a 50% capacity reduction.In other words: if ‘short period of time’ means ‘less than 2 hours’, the answer is yes. If ‘short period of time’ means ‘more than 4 days’, the answer is no. If ‘short period of time’ means ‘somewhere between 2 hours and 4 days’, the answer is that it depends on the energy consumption of your interior lighting system and the condition of your battery.
What could cause a car battery to drain? The battery is new, I started the car a few times and it ran fine. I went to start it again, and it didn't work. If the alternator is powering the car while it runs, why is the battery not charging?
First, look for some light, door, trunk or other thing that is on and draining the battery. This may be an electronic accessory, like a GPS system, entertainment system, etc. We had a battery being drained by an early model XM satellite radio.Modern cars have lots of lights and different modes and options, so if you don't find anything in the daytime, look again at night for lamps, lights, etc. like a trunk lamp or glovebox lamp that does not go off.Now, if you don't find anything obviously stuck in the ON position, you need to take to a place that does electrical service.You may have a bad voltage regulator, rectifier, or other issues besides the alternator.
Why does my car stereo keep shutting off?
I install car stereos for a living and those kenwood stereos have a emergency shut, off that will kick in when there is something wrong. Now when you install new speakers you have to make sure the magnet of the new speakers isnt touching metal when you install them because it will ground them out and **** the, off. Those blazers dont have much room in the door for aftermarket speakers, so take your door panels back off pull the speaker out and make sure when you put them in the doors they arent touching metal. If so its an easy fix. you can go and buy shallow mount speaker, or even cheaper what you can do is get a spacer and if spacers are to big to put the door panel back on go buy double sided tape and cover the back of the magnet up with it on the speaker. That will keep it from coming in contact with metal. You should have problems with ohms, on regular speakers, unless they are dual coil and that is rare when it comes to mid range speakers. So just start with what I said
My amplifier keeps cutting off, Kenwood KAC-9104D 1800-Watt?
Alright I own a 2008 dodge charger, the seats don't fold down. My Kenwood KAC-9104D 1800-Watt Amp is hooked up to the back seat. This is hooked up to 2 12' Kicker COMP CVX (750rms/1500peak)at 1 ohm load. Ported Box. I also have the battery in my trunk. I am using a 4 gauge wiring. The fuse is 100A fuse. The problem that i have is at first the subs will hit but then after about 30 secs, it will cut off. I turn it back down, and then it comes back on. I looked at the amp and the light starts going off. So there is a power shortage somewhere? Anyone know how i can fix this problem?
My car amp fuses keep blowing. its hooked up correct.?
i have a 650 watt car amp. i have a kit that has 10 gauge power wire for it. but the fuse for the power wire is a 40 fuse and the fuses in the amp. it 2 fuses are 25s. would that cause the fuses on the amp to keep blowing as soon as i turn on the stero or hook up the battery. the power wire fuse is fine. i get power all the way to the amp. but the fuses blow instantlly. i have a 650 watt ps2130 jensen amp. also the red and black wire go to the amp lights on top of it. which the light is missing. so the wires were exposed. i put tape over them and gonna try it again. but my question is what would keep causing my amp fuses to blow. the power wire fuse is fine. thanks for the help. also is the blue remote wire suppose to have like direct voltage. cuz on multimeter battery voltage it reads 13 and 14 amps. when i touch the remote wire and the ground. please help
Can a car's electrical system be shorted by touching the battery cable to the frame?
Can a car's electrical system be shorted by touching the battery cable to the frame?As usual, YES and NO.To save on copper costs, most vehicles will establish a common conductive path using the vehicle’s frame. One terminal of the battery will be connected to the vehicle frame with a rather heavy conductor. Prior to about 1960, positive terminal bonding (improperly called grounding) to the frame was common, but today, negative terminal bonding to the frame is almost universal.The important point is that the modern vehicle’s frame and the battery’s negative terminal are electrically connected on most current vehicles. If you somehow connect a vehicle’s negative battery cable to the frame (lets say it rubs a hole in its insulation against a frame member), both will be at the same electrical potential and no appreciable current will flow.However, if you allow the battery’s positive cable to contact the frame, there will be an approximate 12 VDC potential difference, and the load path resistance will be very low, resulting in hundreds of Amps flowing through that fault and circuit path. Expected results will be melting wires, a shower of sparks and molten metal, rapid heating of the battery (which can crack or explode) and possible transient pulses induced into the vehicle’s electrical buss (watch out engine control, transmission control, ABS computer, entertainment electronics and airbag controllers).