Car idles rough when air is on.?
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES V6 at 200k miles, and today when I had the A/C on after a while, the car started idling low, and I kept hearing something click in between bouts of idling and being normal (probably a second in between each click and rough idle to regular idle). When I kicked the A/C off it would return to idling fine. When I drove with the A/C on, it wouldn't idle rough. Mind you, this only happened once, but here's my car's recent history: A couple of weeks ago, my car would idle really rough while stopped and would shut off completely WITHOUT the air conditioning being on. I took it in, got some oil leaks plugged up, a tune up, and something cleaned off to make sure it idled fine (a fuel injector, maybe?). It was fine and has been fine, but I'm concerned with the clicking and the rough idle. All answers are greatly appreciated!
Why does my car idle rough when i turn on the AC?
When you turn on your A/C the main belt shifts to turn the compressor as well. Perhaps your compressor is worn out/needs oil or your belt it worn? That would account for the loud shaking/rough idling you are feeling. To check this, open your hood and have someone start the car with the A/C off. Now have them turn the A/C on. If the A/C compressor is making a grinding noise it's time to have your A/C serviced. Also, with the engine off check the belt for any signs of wear/deterioration in the form of cracking, etc. Also, with older cars this may just be something that comes with age, it's hard to tell without actually hearing your engine. If the belt squeals it's time for a new belt, if your compressor "grinds" time to add oil to that. If you don't know how to do any of this, a normal A/C system check can easily remedy your situation.
What would cause my car to idle rough when i turn on the ac?
i have a 98 mazda 626 4cylynder with 167K miles..the runs great.the check engine light does not come on.i did a tune up on it..just haven't changed the ac and alternator belts on it yet.the car runs smooth and quite til i turn the ac compressor on then it idles rough..the rpms drop from a steady 7500 to about 6500..it runs okay while i'm driving just rough at lights and in park.rough can also mean shaking..what are some things i can try changing or what cause this problem so i can start trying to fix it
Why does my car idle high when A/C is on?
it takes more power to run the compressor, there is a circuit dedicated to this so the engine will not stall. Why its that high is a mystery. A shop manual for that vehicle may shed light, also, have you checked with a repair shop that actually fixes and repairs air conditioning problems? Also go to carcomplaints.com click on the manufacturers name in blue letters to the left on the home page, scroll down and click on model and then year, you can also check previous years or go ahead a few and see if anyone else caomplained or a recall or TSB was made (technical service bulletin) that may have an answer to this problem. Sometimes the complaint also has an answer too. good luck ADDITIONAL DETAILS I typed " 96 mazda 626 idles high with air conditioning on? " in the web search box and clicked. IN THE RESULTS PAGE, I found a number of references to this problem in a number of mazda forums so this is a wide spread problem in mazda it appears. As another answerer reported The ecm or electronic control module is in control of this. How ever if you do the recommended procedures and nothing works one personsaid he found a idle control screw on the throttle body, he tightened it a bit so it stuck up more stopping the throttle a bit before. It took a few days for the module to relearn the position but once it did the rough idle was gone and he enjoyed is cold air while sitting at a stop sign for the first time in a couple of years apparently. Always make sure to try ONE adjustment at a time, so you know which one actually worked. best of luck.
Rough Idle when in Drive, Not Neutral?
MOSt "mechanics" are NOT even really trined at all. They rely on the COMPUTER daig and deny common sense and REAL enigne undestanding. <<
Car sometimes stalls at idle when A/C is on?
It is a very weird problem because it only happens once in awhile for a couple days, and then all of a sudden it doesn't happen for awhile. I have not been able to pinpoint exactly what is causing it to happen when it does happen. I am starting to think a wiring issue to the alternator, but then why wouldn't it stall when I am driving? I am confused by the situation, and I am hoping this issue rings a bell for someone. I did a voltage test with the car on and no appliances on, and there was no problem. Once I turned on the A/C, the voltage dropped to battery level pretty quickly then stalled. Okay, bad alternator? That is what I assumed. I replaced the alternator, and I am still having the same issue. I checked the throttle body and idle air valve, and they are pristine. No dirt whatsoever, and the openings open fine without resistance. I have been waiting for it to start happening again so I can do a voltage test again. Is it possible I just bought a bad alternator?? The only thing that bothers me is that it works fine when I am driving with the A/C on, and doesn't only the alternator provide power when the car is on? If that is the case, then I would think it'd stall regardless if I was at idle or not. Any thoughts?
Why does the car run rough when the AC is turned on while idling?
This is probably normal. All cars i have been in with the AC on at idle will always drop the RPM's a bit causing it to sound a little rough. Also a clicking noise may be heard once in a while and this is the clutch of the AC engaging/disengaging and is normal. The AC uses a good, noticeable amount of power form the engine. It puts a load on the engine. Its probably just doing as its designed. Dont sweat it.
You're right to assume that something else going on. Because it is!Personally I'd check to see if the alternator is providing the right amount of voltage. it's not impossible to get the wrong part installed. and when I say that, I don't necessarily mean you chose the wrong part, but during the assembly line a part they grabbed while assembling the alternator could have been or of spec or something. Check the grounds. A lot of the time, over years of use a little sand blasting or sand papering of the hookups does help. while running the engine, disconnect the battery. A poorly performing battery can drag the entire system down. check to make sure your AC ain't causin' problems too. make sure the clutch is spinning or not spinning when not being used. double check the water pump to see if it was messed up. lastly check all your ignition wiring too. depending on the model year and brand, it might be chatty with obd2. if it's carbureted, obviously you won't get any feedback. if it is obd2, there might be information in there that can give you an idea of what's going on. so get a reader and check. also with modern fi engines, they'll run rough after a battery removal for a while. make sure your fuel economy hasn't been affected, if it has, it's a clear indication that something is wrong.
Car runs rough and shakes while idle at stop light.?
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/vFGtA Struggling engine. To me this could be your ignition control module or main computer that is failing, this controls engine speed, idle, fuel injector on-off speed. You could have a faulty AIC valve, possibly dirty Clogged fuel filter faulty engine management system (computer) faulty pcv valve faulty fuel regulator, faulty fuel pump, check fuel pressure dirty K-N filter Wrong engine oil viscosity The codes indicate that 1 you need a new AICv valve or check connector for corrosion, or need new one. EGR selenoid sensor again check and remove the connector, sometimes just removing the connector and putting it back on solves this problem. You need a new throttle postion sensor if the signal output is low, it's defective.
The alternator pulley is one of several devices driven by the serpentine belt (driven by the engine crankshaft), which also may include the AC compressor, the power steering pump, and the water pump. If you change the belt (no idea why you changed the pulley unless you had to change out the alternator also) then you need to ensure that it is properly tensioned. If it’s too loose, then the belt will slip, and you won’t have alternator power, likely the cause of your problem. Note that you also will not have efficient coolant circulation (your car will overheat) and your power steering will not work. And your car won’t be very cool, either, since the A/C is also driven by this belt.This is an illustration of the serpentine belt on a Dodge engine. Note that the idler pulley (midway up on the right) is fixed, but that the tensioner pulley (midway up on the left) can be moved to loosen or tighten the belt. The few times I’ve had to mess with a serpentine, I needed a long torque wrench to get the belt tensioned properly afterward.This is one of those areas where shadetree mechanical work can end up costing you more than if you took it to the shop in the first place, because an undertensioned belt can result in actual engine damage if it overheats too much, and an overtensioned belt can cause the pulley bearings/journals on any of the components shown to bind up, which means now you have to replace something else. So if your car is running ‘rough’ after you replaced a “pulley”… you should probably take it to a mechanic and make sure nothing else is screwed up.