Low voltage on car stereo wiring?
if you read 10 volts on your battery at rest, and your car still starts, then your multimeter is stuffed. there's no way a car will start with a battery sitting on 10 volts in normal circumstances. i had a flat battery once, car wouldnt crank but my stereo/amplifier still turned on, which wouldnt happen if it's under about 11 volts, so even a drop like that is very noticeable. get your battery professionally tested at an auto electricians, they should be able to do it for free, and you'll probably be looking for a replacement if it really is resting on 10 volts. good luck
Car radio wiring problem..........?
i bought a kenwood radio for my 92 mercury sable. when i was wiring the cut off cables, there is an extra green/yellow wire. i tried the radio without this wire, but when i start the car, the radio lights do not turn on but it wants to inject and eject discs and not play them. any ideas on what to do?
Wiring diagram for Pioneer car stereo?
If its a fairly new radio Yellow - Constant 12 Volt (battery) Red - Accesory 12 volt (switched) only 12 volts when car in accesory or on position Black - Ground (chasis) White/white with black stripe - Front left speaker (black stripe is negative polarity) Gray/Gray with black stripe - Front right speaker (stripe negative) Green/green w/ black - rear left purple/purple w/ black - rear right solid blue - power anteanna (not all have this wire) blue w white stripe - remote turn on (used to turn amplifier on or power anteanna) yellow w/ black stripe - mute (for cellphone handsfree kit) hope that helps
1998 vw jetta gl stereo rewiring diagram?
1998 Volkswagen Jetta Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/White Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Orange Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray/Blue Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: If equipped, each speaker has an individual amplifier located at the speaker. Front Speakers Size: N/A Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Black Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Black Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/White Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/White Rear Speakers Size: N/A Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Light Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Black Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Light Green Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Red
I installed an aftermarket stereo into my truck and I used a wiring harness. The stereo turns on but there isn't any sound coming out. What could be the problem?
How are you certain that all the wires are connected properly? There are really only three variables here: The source, the wires/connections and the speakers. If you can confidently rule out the connections - properly routed, soldered, grounded - and the wires themselves - no shorts, not grounding out - then either your source is not putting out a signal or your speakers are not reproducing sound from the signal. On your source, make sure it it not muted, and that there is a signal from something (tuner, CD, MP3, other input). I would try connecting a pair of speakers directly to the outputs from the source - no wiring harness, no routing through the bodywork of the car. If that checks out, hook up some 12volt audio source directly to each speaker where it is installed (door, kick panel, trunk, dash). Unless your source is faulty, I'm betting there is a wiring problem. Speakers don't often fail completely.
I need a picture of a car jvc stereo wiring diagram?
Wire Color Wire Function : Yellow 12V Constant / Memory Red Switch / Accessory Black Ground Blue Antenna Remote Blue with White Stripe Amplifier Remote Turn-on Orange with White Stripe Dash Light Dimmer/Illumination Green Left Rear Speaker (+) Green with Black Stripe Left Rear Speaker (-) White Left Front Speaker (+) White with Black Stripe Left Front Speaker (-) Purple Right Rear Speaker (+) Purple with Black Stripe Right Rear Speaker (-) Gray Right Front Speaker (+) Gray with Black Stripe Right Front Speaker (-) Make sure you use a vehicle specific harness you connect your radio to the vehicle. Do NOT cut any plugs ever!!!! Good Luck!
What is the best option for diagnosing and repairing a car stereo that turns on and off randomly when I drive? Would an auto repair mechanic or a car stereo store be more qualified to fix this problem?
It will be one of two things - either a loose wiring connection, most likely at the fuse, or an intermittent broken connection inside the stereo. When it goes off, does it lose all the station presets? If so, the fault is in the always-on connection and not the fused circuit. I don’t mean to be discouraging, but I had this problem with my stereo - it would just shut off without warning. Reaching under the dash and pulling on the wire harness would bring it back for a while but having to retune all the presets, only to lose them again next time it cut out, made me want to attack it with an axe. I’m not a novice at fixing electronics but I’m damned if I could find out what was wrong with it, and after I’d wasted a few hours on it, I pitched it in the recycle bin and installed another.An auto repair mechanic won’t have the first idea where to start looking, but while he’s making his diagnosis he’ll notice that your front shocks need to be replaced ($380) and you need new windshield wipers ($48). The car radio store will quickly diagnose that your stereo is fornicated beyond repair and offer to install a new one for $199. You should probably take that option.
Do you have a car stereo installation gone wrong story?
I once fitted a stereo to a 1956 Morris Minor belonging to a friend. I knew the chassis was positive earth, so fitted the unit into an insulated plastic console. I fitted rear parcel shelf speakers, ran the wiring under the carpet and hooked the electrical feed up to the ignition switch and battery using correct fuseholders and Lucar connectors.Cassettes played absolutely fine, the system sounded good and all was well in the world. I set the clock to the correct time and tweaked the equaliser settings to my friend’s liking.The next thing she asked me was to tune in several of her favourite radio stations and program them into the memory presets. Radio 1 on button 1, Radio 2 on button 2, Radio 4 on button 4. Presets 3, 6 and 6 were to be allocated to a few local commercial stations as she wasn’t really a classical buff so had no need for Radio 3.Hold up. No antenna!I had a spare manual telescopic antenna but didn’t want to drill the front wing and spoil what was a ‘classic car’, so I temporarily hooked the antenna up just to test the radio. I lashed the antenna base to ground at a convenient point on the metalwork, and then plugged the antenna into the stereo. Bang! Popped fuse.It took me nearly a whole packet of fuses and a lot of head scratching until I twigged that the antenna was ‘grounded’ to the positive chassis and the casing of the radio was connected directly to negative. Plugging in the antenna jack shorted out the supply lines.Problem solved by fitting an isolated screen-mounted dipole antenna behind the rear view mirror.A few years later I was asked to fit a radio for another friend into a similar car of similar vintage. I repeated my previous installation, step for step, wiring the positive feeds to the chassis of the car and running the isolated negative back to the battery. Bang! This time a fuse blew but not before the stereo had produced some smoke.Some non-purist had ‘restored’ the car at some point, but instead of retaining the original positive earth system with dynamo, had fitted a negative earth alternator and repolarised the starter motor. It was now a conventional negative earth vehicle!S***, as they say, happens!