What does it mean if your engine has a low coolant level?
There are two common causes for low coolant. You are either losing coolant or burning it off. Look for any moisture by your Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat Enclosure, and Radiator Hoses. If you don’t find any leak by those parts, look at where you put coolant in Reservoir and Radiator Cap. (DO NOT TOUCH WHEN HOT!!) Your radiator cap is what keeps the coolant under pressure when operating. If your rad cap is loose and won’t tighten then replace it. Check your reservoir (overflow tank if you have one) for any holes in the tank.If you don’t find any leaks then you are burning coolant off. That’s the sign that your thermostat is opening too late and the coolant hits too hot of a surface on your engine block and some of the water and coolant breaks down and forms sludge (Usually brown or green) in the cooling system. If this is the case, replace your thermostat and do a thorough radiator flush to clear the sludge.I do not recommend using any stop leak. It will only make the problem worse over time by damaging parts or eating at gaskets.
2000 VW Jetta Overheating?
I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0 with 106K miles on it. I don't drive it hard and I do take pretty good care of it. About 6 months ago, I started to notice that the coolant level would fall to the point where the light would come on about once a month. I brought it to a VW mechanic and he performed a pressure test on the coolant system - he said he kept the testing valve on for 8 hours and saw it drop only very slightly. When he did a visual inspection, he said he saw some residue on the radiator, but nothing major. He recommended I just drive the car as usual and keep an eye on it. About a month ago, the coolant started to fall more rapidly, but the car was not overheating. Then, today on my way to work, the coolant light came on as it has been, but then the temperature began to rise rapidly - which it had never done before. As soon as I noticed this, I shut the car off to let it cool and to prevent any major damage (namely a head gasket issue). After work, I bought some Bar's heavy duty sealant and put it in the car along with some more coolant. When I started the car, it went up to 190 (it's normal running temperature) and stayed there for about 15 minutes while I let the car idle. I looked for leaks and white smoke in the exhaust, but saw none and decided to drive home. The car went for about 4 miles uphill this time before the temperature started to exceed 190. I didn't even let it get close to the red - I turned it off, popped the hood and starting inspecting. Steam seemed to be coming out of the radiator area on the driver's side, but I couldn't see exactly where it was coming out. Coolant was all over the ground this time. What's most likely going on here and how much will it cost to repair? What should I look for to ensure I don't have a head gasket issue?
My 2007 vw jetta wolfsburg cooling fans not working. does anyone know where the relays are located?
All the newer VW's radiator fans are controlled differently than they were in the past. The fan control module is part of the main, or, large radiator fan. The smaller fan plugs up to the main fan. The fan control module is interfaced with the ECM. The ECM tells the fan control module when to turn the fans on, AND how fast they should spin. They can be commanded to spin anywhere from 25%-100% speed. For your module car, there may be 2 Temperature sensors, depending on which engine you have, you didn't say. One coolant temp sensor is on the cylinder head coolant flange, and one may be in the lower radiator hose fitting at the radiator, or it could be somewhere else, depending on application. In any case, if there is a problem with the fans, the control module, the wiring, or the sensors, there will be a code stored in the ECM. Getting the Trouble codes read is the first place to start. Anything else is just guess work and a waste of time.
Windows fogging up in jetta?
@ANNA, you're a bad girl! You have a water leak into the car. Possibly from the sunroof drains, if you have a sunroof. You didn't supply us with the year model. VW issued a recall (Service Action) for Jettas , Beetles, R32, Golf, and Jetta wagons with sunroofs, 2001-2007 year models. Free repair, for USA models. They might even replace the carpet for free if the recall applies to your car. Check it out at the dealer. You could have a water leak from other places instead of/ in addition to the sunroof drains. The window regulator frame,(a missing access hole plug, bent frame, bad seal), bad door weather strip, leaking windshield. plugged up door drains, a leaking pollen filter frame, a broken splash shield under the wiper arms, or a plugged up AC drain. Run a water hose on top of the car all around the roof, windshield, and doors, and watch for water coming into the car. You might have to remove some panels and trim to actually see it. As for fogging windows, the water you have now, it's going to have to be removed. All of it, even from under the carpet, especially from the sound pad under the carpet. It's cotton, a giant sponge. It'll start to stink in a couple of weeks. It'll take about 1-2 weeks to dry it out, AFTER you remove it and hang it up so it drains. It's best to replace it. Once it stinks, that smell will never go away. Not having a functioning AC system IS why it's hard to get rid fog on the windshield. Using outside air from the recirculated air switch helps, but AC dries out the air going to the defrost vents and they clear up much faster. Get the AC fixed.
2000 2.0 Jetta?
I call BS on Joel. There is NO WAY his car has that much power. I have a FULLY BUILT TURBOED B16 in my 99 civic SI and on 25 PSI of boost it puts down 550+ HP. On everyday tune of 15 PSI it puts down 367 HP. He claims 450 HP. Lets break it down. His car puts down 100 HP at the wheels from the factory, his NOS gives him 100 HP (50 HP each shot) Now that leaves 250 HP missing. So he says he has cams, pulleys, polished manifold, exhaust, fuel rail, plugs, a EIP tuning upgrade, and a stage 3 chip. So on average thats 31.25 HP per part of upgrade. The EIP chip on this motor adds 15-20 HP, and it's NON COMPATIBLE with another "chip" so right there hes full of $hit. To get that kind of power the only way to go is forced induction. He's basically saying hes more than QUADRUPLED his power output with BOLT-ON parts. What kind of idiot actually believes him? Even if he did have these mods, the 8V is a REALLY weak motor, and it will only put down about 175 HP. Now as for the Civic's you are talking about, what year civics? what kind? CX,DX,LX,EX,or SI? if it's a 96-00 EX, youre not beating it in stock form, DEFINATLY not a 99-00 civic SI, the DX, and LX from 92-00 yeah it would be a close race as your car and the civic puts down close to the same power. Also remember that torque has a lot to do with it too. OH almost forgot, sorry this JOEL guy has me fumed, I HATE LIARS, My wife has a 2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg edition. It has the K04 sport turbo upgrade, GIAC programming, running 20 PSI of boost, ABD racing intercooler, intake manifold, air intake, larger injectors, Forge divertor valve, and 3 bar fuel pressure regulator. It only puts down 360 HP at the wheels. So I'm just saying there is NO possible way he has that. LIAR, LIAR, LIAR.
2000 vw beetle leaking antifreeze?
Brad does not know what he is talking about. Coolant leaks are kind of common and easy to fix on these cars. Two common places to check for leaks are 1. look on top of the transmission, right where the engine and trans joins, if you see residue, the flange (the plastic where the rubber hoses connects) is leaking and need to be replaced. If it is leaking, usually the reason is the valve cove gasket leaks very hot motor oil down the side and destroys the seal, that would also need to be replaced to prevent it from happening again 2. look down the belt side of the engine with a flash light for the same thing, coolant residue, if you see any coolant, water pump is leaking. At this point, the timing belt is now compromised, soaked with coolant and will need to be replaced.
2001 Volkswagen Jetta overheating?
It is normal for your car temperature gauge to rise after about 10 minutes of driving. If however, it rises to a point where the car starts overheating (steam coming from radiator pressure cap, etc) then there is cause for concern. Ideally a car should run as close to boiling point as possible. Car manufactures achievable this by operating a closed system which becomes pressurised as the engine heats up. Water boils at higher temperature under pressure. Assuming that it is overheating, then it can be a number of things if you are not losing coolant. Fan related. (in order of checking) 1. Check to see if Fuse for fan blown. 2. Are fans operating correctly. To check, apply 12 V directly to fan motors - they should run (watch out for your fingers) 2. Is sensor unit to switch on the fans is working. Generally found at bottom of radiator. Needs to be unscrewed and tested by placing in boiling water and checking whether switch closes using multi-meter. Pump related 1. Is V- belt driving pump not loose and slipping. 2. Pump impeller that may have sheared. To check if pump is operating, take of radiator cap and run car for a while, you should be able to see water circulating (movement of water (will not occur while engine is cold as thermostat stops flow). 3. Thermostat not opening - as above, but no indication of water movement even when engine is hot