Who makes the best lawnmower engine?
Rhetorical question: Are you going to take *care* of the engine?Because if you’re not, it doesn’t matter what engine you get it won’t last very long.IMHO, Briggs & Stratton pretty much rules the roost and is the engine I look for powering my yard and lawn equipment. While their engines may not be the tip of the cutting edge, they are dirt simple, all day reliable and parts are readily available.Briggs & Stratton has been making small engines since 1908 …110 years by my public school math. It’s an American company and still makes their engines here in the USA.The 3.5HP Briggs in my Snapper push mower passed the 25 year mark a couple years back. It still runs strong and starts on the second or third pull from cold. The only thing it’s suffering from are slightly worn valve guides which manifests itself with a bit of white smoke on a cold start.The reason it’s lasted so long is I take care of it …the point of asking the question at the beginning of my answer. I change the oil, use WalMart SuperTech synthetic with a dash of STP. The fuel I feed it is a cocktail laced with StaBil fuel preservative and Marvel Mystery oil. It gets deep cleaned before each season and a fresh air cleaner is installed. I’ve rebuilt the carb a few times (ethanol is hell on fuel systems). I don’t consider what I do excessive or fussy …really just the normal maintenance any small engine operating in a harsh environment needs in order to survive.
Ignition Wiring on a Stanley riding mower w/ a tecumseh 17.5 motor?
From a manual I have: Tecumseh Products Company standard wiring color codes effective August, 1992 are as follows: Code Product Yellow - Alternator A.C. Leads Red - Alternator D.C. + Leads Brown - Alternator D.C. - Leads Black - Alternator Ground Leads, Battery Ground Leads Orange - 12 Volt Starter B + Leads Dark Green - Ignition Shut-Off Leads NOTE: Prior to August 1992, wire codes changed according to model and specification numbers.
Tecumseh motors, why did fuel get into the motor oil?
I am talking about a 13hp small engine in a ride on mower. I was thinking fuel must be leaking in the motor somehow when it is stopped. I see a pipe from the fuel tank that diverts 2 ways before it get to the carburetor. One of the ways is to the engine block. This leads me to think that perhaps this device has got a problem, and it is letting fuel drip into the oil somehow, when it is stopped. Any ideas, anyone
Riding mower Engine Bolt?
I have a murray 40" cut 12.5 i/c engine riding mower. I was mowing yesterday when my mower began to vibrate a lot. I rode back to the garage and shut it off. I looked down and the engine pulley was falling off. I removed it, and saw the bolt that threads into the shaft was missing. I now have no idea what size the bolt is, and i have looked for hours in my yard looking for the bolt? Could someone please tell me the size of the bolt?
Go Kart Engine Lawn Mower Or Leaf Blower?
Leafblower engine is probably only about 32cc. My lawnmower engine is a 3.8 hp Tecumseh, but it's about 160cc, and would have about four times as much torque, so could be geared a lot higher for a go-kart. Major issue would be that the lawnmower engine is probably a vertical shaft, making it harder to adapt to a go-kart, but there are plenty of sites where you can buy adapter kits - Google it. Edit: what's wrong with it is that it's too small for a go-kart. It will be revving its little guts out just trying to get off the line then go slow. Forget about hills, unless you're only going to be going down them. It will destroy itself within a few weeks.
My lawn mower isn't getting any fuel into the engine any suggestions on what might be wrong?
The problem is in your carburetor./ I have no idea what kind of engine you have/Tecumseh or Briggs...ect At thispoint it would matter if I am going to tell you step by step what to do to remedy this problem. Based on what you typed it sounds to me that you have a Tecumseh Engine and that is based on you mentioning a fuel line. Your carb has a bowl underneath it. Remove that carb and bowl. Unscrew the bolt and take off that bowl. You will see a float. Inspect it for for cleanliness. The float is either plastic white or copper color. Make sure it looks clean and green stained form old gas and setting up. If it is you will need to remove that pin and clean. Clean that bowl out good. I use wd-40. If you clean it out real good and make sure your jet ports are cleared those are the tiney holes in that shaft that your looking dead at when you take off that bowl. There are holes in there,. Make sure they are cleared and there is a copper tubne in the middle going straight up through the tunnel, makle sure it is clear and your mower will crank and keep running if you do this right. Your problem is that it is starving for gas. and that is in the carb:)
Tecumseh carburetor leaking?
i have a tecumseh 5.0hp power sport horizontal shaft engine and the carburetor leaks i thought it was the bowl gasket but after replacing that i noticed that it also leaks through the air filter so i took the air filter off and notice a small hole i assume its a vent hole i looked up photos of the carburetor and the hole is suppose to be there but i never got a clear name or reason for that whole. I assume that i have a bad gasket somewhere or that the pin and float assembly is bad but I dont want to just go out and start buying parts if im not sure that will fix the leaking problems
I have a 17 hp tecumseh engine with trouble, it runs like it is to lean it will only run on full choke and it?
Model? OHV17? You described symptoms of clogged high speed jet orifice. Tecumseh carbs usually have a large nut/shaft on bottom of float bowl unless newest model- this is part of the high speed jet assembly. The often found problem is the small hole at side of shaft toward bottom is clogged and must be simply cleaned- a cutting torch cleaning tool has the small cleaning tip/wire that fits. Carb solenoid? Some models have a fuel shutoff solenoid - but if it was stuck closed position the engine wouldn't run even with choke as you indicated. If you have a Walbro carb- some models require the cleaning kit with the press plugs- these are the ones without a access cap screw to get to high speed port to clean, they use a simple soft plug from factory- a bit cheaper to do than thread relief hole and put in small bolt. Electronic module as in magnapulse pickup- again if it was bad you wouldn't have spark to run at all, valve clearance tight usually means backfire or no compression to start, loose means ticking when run. *** helpful to know what engine model and where it came from-Some of the engines from garden tractors with low behind the engine gas tanks have a crankcase pressure/vacumn fuel pump at valve/ camcover area. the newer EPA standards engines have sealed and 'fixed' jets that are hard to clean for both idle and high speed jets. Governor linkage and ground emergency switch that are bypassed when using choke also remote possibility. If you can replace carb with a known running carb and it works then you know the problem was in carb- I think it is your carb or something related to fuel- clogged vent in gas cap, gelled fuel in bowl from setting overwinter, and combination of mucked up orifices. Leak in manifolds might be contributing to problem. .
HELP! I cracked the engine on my John Deere lawn mower!!!!!!!?
The cracked case is cast and cannot be repaired. The case will have to be replaced. This will involve a complete disassembly of the engine. You might be better off finding a used engine at a mower repair shop. Edit: Sure, you can try using J-B Weld, Liquid Metal or other type. Chances are that it won't hold through one grass cutting. The thermal expansion and tensile strength will be different than the cast case you are trying to repair. Give it a shot. If it doesn't work, you will have to replace it. Think of it as an expensive lesson in not overtightening your drain plug. Edit: Quicksteel is a two-part putty. Still, this won't fix it. Also, forgot to mention, you cannot weld this either. Edit: Your customer should appreciate your honesty and willingness to make things right. That right there is worth more than $200. Chalk it up as a business loss. All business suffers a loss now and then. Also it's great that at 17 you have taken the initiative to start your own business. I wish you much luck and success! Edit: Welding of the cast can be done but it is a specialized weld. If you do find someone qualified to do it at a reasonable price, don't worry about the threaded part. That can easily be retapped with a regualr 1/2" pipe thread tap.
What are the symptoms of a leaking head gasket on a lawn mower engine?
It does depend on what type of engine your mower has. One of the common symptoms in my experience is oil coming out of the fuel pump. The blown head gasket allows the crankcase to pressure up, pushing oil up the pulse line and out the vent on the fuel pump.If your fuel pump is not seeping oil from the vent, it does not mean that your head gasket is definitely OK. However if your fuel pump is pumping oil out from the vent, there is a very good chance that you have a blown head gasket.