Electric hot plate wiring?
Hot plates can be dangerous. You need more electrical knowledge than demonstrated in this post if you are going to make your own. Why not just buy one of whatever power you need? You can get them used if you are worried about price. Every hot plate that I have seen has been single phase. Every residential house that I have ever seen has been single phase. Power companies don't freak out, fire marshals do. You can't make a hotplate out of scrap parts.
How do I move electrical wiring safely out of the way so I can install a in wall doggie door?
first i would turn off that circuit. you can figure out which circuit that receptacle is on by buying a plug tester at a hardware store (lowe's, home depot...). Next, I would open the cover to the outlet and see how many wires are entering the box. If there is only one, you can safely move it in the direction it is coming from and put it in a junction box. preferably on the inside of your house. you can get a blank plate or cover for these in just about any color you want to match the paint on the wall. i would never recommened leaving live wires hanging loosely inside of a wall. that is unsafe, and violates electrical code, and anyone who would suggest that is very irresponsible. If there are two wires in the box, I would suggest relocating your door, or hiring a qualified electrician to take care of it. Another thought, I usually run my wires about 30 inches off the floor when going through walls. You might be able to clear the wire.... How big is your dog??
How does an electric water heater work?
Having perused the existing answers, let me throw my two cents in:The most common type of electric water heater (WH) is the tank style that uses electric resistance elements to heat the water. In a common residential WH there are two thermostats, an upper and a lower, and each controls an element. The upper thermostat is the master, and also contains a safety cutoff.When the upper thermostat senses a decreased temperature, it sends power to the upper element where electricity (4,500 watts in a typical 240V WH) flows through the element and is converted by resistance into heat. In all modern water heaters I've seen, the element is submerged in the water, which is necessary to keep the element from burning out & popping like a fuse (which I've seen numerous times). Once the upper thermostat senses the water has reached the set temperature, it passes power to the lower thermostat. If the lower thermostat also senses lower temperature, it then passes power through the lower element until the set temperature is reached.Because heat rises, the lower element does the majority of the work heating the water in the tank. The upper element can only heat the water that is at its level or higher, and is primarily used to provide quick heat when the tank capacity has been mostly used.Variations exist, with more or fewer elements, at different power levels from 120V to 3-phase 480V (that I've seen), but the basic operating principles are the same.A tankless WH still uses electric resistance elements submerged in water, but it uses a much lower volume of water combined with more elements and more total power to heat the water as it flows through the unit. The most powerful residential tankless water heaters can heat up to 8 gallons of water per minute (≈30 liters/min) and draw up to 150 amps, or 36,000 watts. The advantages of tankless include endless hot water up to the maximum flow rate, and significant space savings.On the other end of the utility spectrum is the heat pump WH. These trade speed of heating for efficiency, and they are highly efficient because they don't generate heat – they move it, literally pumping heat from the surrounding area into the water inside the tank. They use a refrigeration cycle (Heat pump and refrigeration cycle - Wikipedia) just like a refrigerator or air conditioner to harvest heat from the ambient atmosphere to heat the water inside the tank. They also have resistance elements that serve as backup in case the heat pump fails.
Should I have the electrical wiring updated in my home of sixty years?
Electrical standards were different in 1958. Some of the points to consider -Romex wiring was used then, but the product differs from today’s. The ground was 2 gauges lighter than the hot and neutral. The outer braid was fabric with only the conductors having plastic or rubber insulation. In 60 years this insulation will have become more brittle than flexible. Not much of a problem unless you need to move an outlet. At that point it would be in your best interest to use all new wiring.110 volt outlets were non-polarized with no ground hole. However; the metal box containing the outlet should have been grounded either with a wire or through conduit. Verify that the box actually is grounded per 1958 code and replace these outlets with modern ones. Use green “pig tail” wiring segments to connect the ground to the box.Kitchens and bathrooms did not have ground fault protection. You have two choices here. Either replace the outlets with GFCI type or do the same at the breaker panel.Circuit breakers may be very expensive for a 60 year old panel. Consider upgrading the breaker box.Major appliances like stoves had 3 wire outlets in 1958. These all have 4 wire outlets in 2018. Not a problem until you need to replace the appliance.2018 codes require each built-in kitchen appliance (like garbage disposals and dishwashers) to have a separate circuit. You are also required to have at least two 20 amp circuits for counter-top kitchen appliances now. It was accepted practice to wire kitchens with far fewer circuits in 1958.The good news is a 60 year old house is way beyond the days of knob and tube wiring, but well before the disaster of aluminum wiring. Overall, you should be in pretty good shape. Just attend to a few relatively minor updates for safety.
Smallest guage extension cord i can run a 750W electric hot plate withsingle element, dont know?dont guess?
Most "standard" indoor hardware store type cords are 16 gauge, which is good for 10 amps. Just keep the cord as short as you can. Short cords are more safe (they are less likely to become tripping hazards) and you also get the benefit of less voltage drop in a shorter cord.
Can you melt lead on a standard kitchen hotplate?
If it is an electric hot plate then I doubt it. If it is a gas burner then you might be able to melt it. I have a small smelter that is about the size of a hot plate (camp stove) it burns "white gas" (same fuel for camp stoves) and it melts lead.
What causes electrical outlets to get hot, and is it safe to use them?
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awWcu It sounds like the outlet is defective, and should be replaced. There's also a possibility that the outlet is extended to other outlets or lighting, so if it's still hot after unplugging the lamp, there is likely a bad connection to the outlet itself. If you find that it hasn't cooled off, or gets hot when other lights or electrical items are being used in that room or adjacent rooms, you should stop using them and get an electrician to check the connections to that outlet. This is an example of how bad connections can be far worse than a short-circuit. A short usually trips the breaker (or blows the fuse in older homes), thereby removing the risk. A bad connection OTOH, represents a series resistance in the circuit, and when current flows through resistance, it can get very hot and under the right circumstances, cause a fire. Hopefully you aren't living in a mobile home, or a building that was wired using aluminum wire - if so, that's a big risk - consult with an electrician about how to proceed - some may recommend rewiring, some may just recommend checking connections every few years. In the long run, rewiring using copper is both cheaper and safer.
Which is better and more efficient for cooking, LPG or an induction plate?
The induction transfer of energy is like a high frequency transformer, and transformers are very efficent machines used to change voltage and current in power stations, and in appliances. Up to 98 per cent efficient using modern core construction. In the induction cooker application the pots vary as does the coupling coefficent and the operating frequency is higher, the switching IGBFET devices that turn the line 50 or 60 cycle power into 15 to 25000 cycle per second power, lose a little energy on internal losses. So they loose a little efficiency. The pot is a single turn secondary for the transformer primary coil under the induction top plate. It transforms the 600 volts inside the sending coil under the cooker top plate at low current, to a safe low voltage in the steel or iron pot into a huge current which flows in the single shorted turn, the bottom of the pot. It goes by the ratio of the turns. Voltage drops and current in the pot increase by the ratio of turns of wire in the two coils. Many turns for the coil under the cooktop top plate, To only effectively one turn, the bottom of the pot. Resistive loss in the pot wall of flowing all that current through the steel which has more resistance than copper, converts the current to heat. Heating is related to the square of the induced current, and as I noted, the current in the pot bottom is large. Very, very little energy escapes from the pot to heat the surrounding air or top of the induction cooker, unlike a gas flame. Think of all the hot air around the burner on your gas stove.The limited construction, of the cheap mostly Chinese cookers, limits their lifespan if inexpensive capacitors are used, and greatly limits the available heat steps if a limited computer chip is used. Commercial units for restaurants and hotels are available that are fully continuously variable in temperature and better designed. I even have one that has a separate in pot temperature sensor, is fully variable, is variable in how fast it approaches the set temperature to prevent burning sauces, and talks to the base to control temperature of the food, and reports to my cell phone!
How much voltage can a 12V car alternator regulator tolerate?
You'll cook the regulator. Alternator regulators are a few amps devices that control the field of the alternator. They don't regulate the voltage directly. If you put 48 volts to the regulator and it survived, it will believe the alternator that us connected to it is way overcharging and output no current to the field.If the only thing I had that would charge a battery so that I could start a car to get to the parts store or repair shop, I would put about 5 or 10 ohms of resistant that could dissipate a lot of power is series with the battery and charge the it that way. I'm thinking something along the lines of a toaster, electric hot plate, electric frying pan, or something else like that. This is assuming you are in the U.S. you could also use 3 headlights in series.If I was going to jury-rig something like this I'm going to do it on a fire resistance surface such as a concrete or dirt garage floor or outside. I'm also not going to leave it unattended for more than long enough to go to the bathroom.
What is the efficiency of transformer?
Transformers are among the most efficient electrical apparatus commercially manufactured. Most transformers of sizes form 1 KVA through 1000 KVA will have a full-load efficiency of from 95% to 98.5%. The items, which lower the efficiency of a transformer, are losses, which appear in the iron and those which appear in the windings. The iron losses are explained in the above question. The losses in the windings are due to the resistance of the wire. When current flows through a wire, losses appear in the form of heat just the same as when an ordinary electric hot plate is turned on. The wire used in quality transformers is generally made of copper. Aluminum is sometimes used in low quality transformers where life expectancy is not important or transformers which only have a constant load. These metals are among the best commercial metals for conducting electricity. They offer the least amount of resistance. Therefore, little energy is lost in the form of heat through the windings. These losses run on the order of 1% to 2% of the full-load rating. They vary inversely as the square of the load.For more info visit :https://www.electrikals.com/prod...