What is the advantage of fuel injection over a carburetor in bikes?
The carburetor works on Bernoulli's principle and roughly sends fuel to the engine based on air passing through the throttle. Fuel Injection (FI) is a much more accurate system that has dedicated fuel injectors, which are controlled by an ECU, to inject fuel into the engine based on the air flow calcuted using sensors. FI is a very smart system since it uses real time sensor inputs, and hence it is much more accurate than a carburetor.Also, this accuracy in an FI system provides much better control on engine outputs such as power, emissions etc. At high engine speeds, a carburetor my choke. This isn't the case with FI since it uses real time inputs and is accurate over all operating conditions.
Which one gives better mileage(fuel efficiency) fuel injection or carburetor?
For a layman, as the name suggest, Fuel Injection system injects fuel into the engine optimally such that only required fuel is used by the engine and thus gives out better fuel economy. The Fuel Injection system is computerized and works on a lot of sensors. The fuel injection nozzle is provided directly in the combustion chamber.Whereas, in a Carburetor the air intake is via the air filter and the fuel intake comes in from the fuel tank. The air and fuel mix together in a set ratio and then passes to the combustion chamber for burning and production of power.But, servicing of a carburetor engine is easier and cheaper than the Fuel Injection system.So, you can go for the FI variant when TVS Apache RTR 200 Fi is available.All the best!
Motorcycles and Motorcycling: Is it true that exhausts affect the engine power?
There's three factors that determine how well a motor works.1) the air/fuel mix2) the air/fuel mix3) the air/fuel mixYou might think I'm being facetious by listing this three times, but keep reading.1) the air/fuel mix as determined by the carb needles or the fuel injection map - too much gas and you don't have enough oxygen to support a complete burn ("flooding" the engine) and too much air and there's not enough power to push the piston thru a complete cycle ("running too lean").2) The airbox/filter path can change the air/fuel mix by being more or less restrictive. If you make airflow less free-flowing, you'll flood with too much gas. If you make it more free-flowing, then you run lean.3) Exhaust backpressure affects how well the spent fuel/air mix is extracted from the cylinder, and can affect the intake cycle of neighboring cylinders. If there's too much backpressure, the exhaust will flow back into the cylinder at the wrong time, and mess with air/fuel mix. If too little, the exhaust cycle may pull unburnt fuel/air out of the cylinder early, causing backfiring and lower efficiency. The point is, if you change one factor, you must adjust the other two. Most Stage I conversions are simply a swap of the airbox and the muffler with less restrictive models, respectively, and then the air/fuel mix is retuned to get the bike back to 'stock' tuning (usually a little lean). Stage II will involve more intense fuel "remapping" to take full advantage of the new parts, usually involving a dyno analysis of the bike's performance across the rev range (horsepower and torque curves). Stage III will involve things like performance heads, new pistons and connecting rods, a new camshaft, reboring of the cylinder, or even a turbocharger or supercharger.
If a carburetor of a car is consuming a lot more fuel than usual, what can be done?
It helps to know what kind of car we’re talking about as there may be more specific tells, but in general, the advice you’ve received from the other answers, in particular Arch Gabriel Wallace is very good. Do note that for his answer to make sense, you have to know how to do the things he’s asking you to do; given that you’re asking here, I’m pretty sure that you don’t know.I’m going to assume the car was working fine, getting the expected mileage, and now suddenly without any notable explanation, is getting bad mileage.Start by checking for leaks. On older cars (by that, I mean really older cars, not like “early 90s) the gas tanks develop rust and can start leaking, sometimes at an alarming rate. I’d be checking that, first, and if there’s a manual fuel control valve (as is common on some European cars) I’d be looking at that too. Then I’d check every inch of the fuel line from the tank outlet to the carb fuel bowl inlet- as rubber ages, it loses elastomers and needs to be replaced, much, much more frequently than is done by most owners. Also check the carb itself for leaks - could be a bad gasket, or a hole in something, or - very commonly - a stuck float which doesn’t shut off fuel flow from the pump when the bowl is full.If you don’t have leaks, then there’s something messed up with the fuel metering.Carbs are evil little mechanical analog computers trying to approximate 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture by guessing volume based on relative pressures as air moves through passages of known size and volume. If one of those passages is blocked, even partially, the approximation goes south, and the ratios go out of whack, and you either burn a lot more, or less fuel.I’d also strongly suggest that you find an exploded parts diagram for your particular carb, and have a good look at that before you dive in. If any of the hundred or so parts aren’t working right, you won’t get the result you’re expecting.Back in the day, carbs were ubiquitous and pretty much everyone knew how to clean, fix, and adjust them. These days? Much harder to find someone competent if you’re having issues.Good luck.
What are the modifications done in the simple carburetor?
NOTE : messing with a carburetor is dangerous to your engine.leave the stock settings as much as possible.one of the main modifications done is jettingSome basics:-A 'Stoichiometric' AIR-FUEL ratio (AFR) has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For petrol engines, the stoichiometric, A/F ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. The stoichiometric AFR depends on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesels and so on.lean mixture:-more air less fuel mixturerich mixture:-more fuel less air mixtureJetting:-check your vehicle's service manual for correct A/F ratio which would be anywhere between 12:1 to 14:1. lean mixture increases performance but in the other hand increases running temperature and eventually ruins your engine. on the other hand too rich mixture fouls your spark plug.carb parts are as shown in the picture belowYou can only begin re-jetting your carburetor if the following conditions are met:1. Top end is in good condition.2. Bottom end is in good condition. Crank seals.3. Spark plugs, air filters, reeds(2 strokes only) and so on.main modification that is done to main jet is either upsizing or downsizing(least preferred).upsizing just 1 or 2 sizes from stock size will not affect your engine life much.upsizing will increase the performance of your engine a bit but reduces mileagedownsizing from the stock is usually not preferred unless you prefer a good mileage and not performance.perfect jet size can be obtained by driving the vehicle and observing its throttle response at 1/4th ,1/2 ,3/4th and full throttle positions.though there are other methods,feeling the engine while driving is the easiest and cheapest way of determining jet size.remember,everything comes by practice and patience.At last fiddling with the A/F ratio screw changes a lot of things both after and before jetting. PS:-there are a lot of other modification methods other than jetting.And jetting itself involves more steps than i mentioned here as it is a very vast process.temperature, humidity and other natural factors plays a major role in carb response.hence one need to consider all these before coming to a conclusion.one need to have skills and knowledge about carbs before messing with it!
What is the problem in a motorcycle that consumes more gas than usual?
First guesses:Choke stuck on (check for high idle, if equipped)Plain ole' leak (look for gas on the ground)Dragging brakes (check for hot rotors after riding for some time and braking using only the front or back, checking the opposite)Poor float needle seal or stuck float (if carbureted)Leave petcock on while parked and check for gas in oil (you will have to change oil afterwards)Sometimes can be fixed by jostling the bike front to backAirbox restriction, e.g. dirty air filterExhaust restrictionClutch adjustment (if clutch lever is too tight, your clutch may slip with the lever released)Poor carburetor adjustmentDoes your bike's idle drop very quickly and nearly stall? Are the spark plugs blackened?Makes less of a difference, but still could be a factor:Low air pressure in tiresExtremely dirty chainLow engine (and transmission) oil
What is octane number and cetane number?
Octane number is the ability of resistance of a fuel to knocking in comparison to Iso-octane, which has octane number 100 and has high anti-knock quality.Better anti-knock quality allows us to compress the air-fuel mixture to a larger extent before it gets ignited by itself.Every fuel is rated between 0 to 100. (0 is for n-heptane)Higher octane number fuels lets you use higher compression ratio in the engine, which can provide better performance.This was all for spark-ignition engine, in which mixture of fuel and air is compressed.If you use a lower octane no. fuel in your engine, then there are chances of engine knocking in your engine, which in severe cases, damage your engine.But, when it comes to compression ignition engine,only air is compressed and fuel is injected into the cylinder. So you can go on compressing as much as you want. But, when you inject the fuel, it must burn satisfactorily efficiently in the available time.This means that this time we need a fuel which burns with minimum delay when injected into the cylinder.Now what is this delay?When the fuel enters the cylinder, it needs to be atomized, then mixed with air then it’s temperature must be raised, then the chemical reaction of combustion takes it’s time. All these times added, is the ignition delay.So Cetane number is a rating that indicates how low it the ignition delay of the fuel as compared to that of Cetane.P.s- Octane number may be over 100 too as now we have fuels that are more resistant to knocking than iso-octane.Hope that helps…