My phone got wet and touch is not working. What should I do?
Below are some of the tips you should follow when your phone gets wet.Switch the phone off. Once you take out the phone, switch it off. This is very important to prevent short circuits within the phone body. Remove the batteries carefully and let it dry.Remove the SD Cardand the SIM Card.Lightly Dry Off Your Water Damaged Phone and Accessories. Use a completely dry cloth to lightly dab the wet phone and all the components you took out. Do not wipe. This will just cause the water to spread around. Also, don’t use a hair dryer to dry the phone. This may damage the internal components.Put Your Water Damaged Cell Phone in Rice for Three Days. The rice will absorb the liquid from the phone and will also dry it more quickly. Just make sure to use dry rice and feel free to put it in to a Ziploc bag or container.Once you’ve waited three days for your phone to dry put it back together and try to turn it on. If it doesn’t work then try replacing the battery. If that doesn’t work take it to the store and see if there is anything else you can do.
What are some creative tips on getting students to correct a bad bow grip?
I don’t know how creative this will be….more like desperate attempts.A bad bow grip, I believe, results from thinking of the bow as an uncomfortable stick that might fall out of your fingers. The “baby” bow grip helps here….the one in which the thumb is under the frog instead of the stick. This creates the illusion that the bow is bigger and easier to grasp. I used to use the foam from hair curlers on the stick itself, to expand that feeling. (Interestingly enough, this “baby” grip is useful if you ever have a reason your bow hand is tired from over-exertion. It’s comfortable, relaxing, and almost as useful as the regular grip.)Anyway, another approach is to demonstrate the similarity to a fist. Turn the hand over, open the fingers a bit, place the bow in the student’s hand, balance point first, which for me is between the thumb and the first joint of the second finger from the thumb. Pinky sits on top (or bottom, as the bow is upside down), nicely curved. The other fingers just drape over. Keep this position and practice getting into it.The Suzuki bow grip is very similar; there the balance point is with the first joints of the two middle fingers instead of the one..A big important point is that students frequently don’t realize that while playing, the violin holds the bow up! They assume it’s sort of hovering or something. It’s an unconscious idea, of course, since it makes no sense, but there it is, the human ability to make things even harder.Correcting a bad bow grip takes a lot of time. Galamian was a famous pedagogue who had his students take a whole year just to relearn their bow grip. That’s extreme, I think, but I did have to spend 5 hours a day for 8 weeks at his camp doing just that. I was so starved for playing music by the end!So. Once your student can find that position, he/she will lose it once starting to play. Nag to get the position at the start. Try to stick to pieces that stay in the middle of the bow, where the hand isn’t adjusting to the changes at the wrist.This isn’t especially creative, I’m afraid! A bad bow hand usually means the student has reinforced it by playing with the bad bow hand. So it will take time to reinforce a good one and wipe out the old muscle memory.
Has Anybody used the 883-1200 screamin eagle conversion pistons.Ideas or opinions please?
What is the part# on the piston kit you are looking at? 10 years ago, the SE line was not all that great, but HD has MAJORLY improved the SE line of parts. I am not exactly sure who is manufacturing their piston, bring I think it's JE, which is top quality. I would have no problems using the SE pistons for myself or a customer, in just the last 6 months, I have probably installed at least a dozen sets of them. As far as the oversize bore bore, I ALWAYS order new piston .005 or .010 and have the cylinders resized to the pistons to insure that they are set up to the minimum clearnace spec for performance and longevitiy. I would not worry about the cost of boring, any reputable machine shop will simply hone them to size, its only .005 over, not alot at all, and should cost no more than $100, the machinist I use would only charge me $50 for .005 over. Given the fact that your bike is an 86, if the cylinder studs are original, you HAVE to replace them and the head bolts, HD has updated them 3 times since 86 and changed the head bolt style. Even if they have been replaced, you want new ones anyway, they do stretch. I also STRONGLY recommend the use of MLS head gaskets (multi layer steel), HD's SE gaskets are this stye, but you can get a James Gasket Kit from Drag Specialties that comes with these gaskets in the kit, SE's you have to buy the standard gasket kit and the head gaskets separate. I also HIGHLY suggest upgrading the Ignition System as well, I use nothing but Daytona Twin Tec. The stock HD ignition will severely restrict performance, they have very weak advance curves and have their rev-limiters set way too low. HD also uses too much advance, their engines run alot better slightly retarded. Put a new VOES switch in it (adjusted to turn on at 6 inches of vacuum) and set the timing to 31-32 degress BTDC If you have any more questions, you can email me here through my profile.
I need help tuning my quadrajet!?!?!?!?
Does anyone REALLY know how to tune a quadrajet? I need help!? I just had a 383 stroker built for my 68 chevelle malibu. I put an edelbrock torquer manifold on it but dont have the money yet for a new carburator. But I already have a near new Rochester Quadrajet rebuilt by Holley. I would like to know how to adjust the fuel/air ratio PROPERLY. If anyone knows any tricks and/or methods or know where I can find specs on how to do this please help.
What Inline Skates Best Simulate Ice Skating?
Pic Skates are probably the best "known" substitute off ice . . . but there are other brands you might check out: Snow White Artistic Inline Figure Skates (supposedly lighter) http://www.inlinefigure.com/snowwhite.htm Jump-Spin Skate (I don't know much about this one - its definitely not a figure skate boot. but it is "cheap"). http://jumpspin.com/skate/id39.html I haven't actually compared prices or anything yet . . . but I have been looking into it off ice skates too (um - I have been for years!!!!). I have tried the Pic Skates when the company came out to our rink. The boot is a figure skate boot so that feels "familiar" - but the frames are clunkier (heavier) and you just know you're not on the ice. It feels slower . . . and spin technique is definitely different (I tried and I nearly ate it!). I only tried them on for 5 minutes tops . . . so I couldn't have possibly given them a good chance. I'm sure with practice I could figure out the inline technique for figure moves - it is kinda different - but if you get muscle memory for that, you may have to rework your ice technique when you get back. It is pricey, but if I were to get them, I would get a new pair of the same exact figure skate boot I have and then the frame. When I tried on the Pic Skates long ago, the wheel configuration for my size was either too long or too short compared to my figure skate blades - maybe they worked that out since then. At this point, I lean more towards Pic Skates - only because I've seen and read more about them.