If a carburetor of a car is consuming a lot more fuel than usual, what can be done?
It helps to know what kind of car we’re talking about as there may be more specific tells, but in general, the advice you’ve received from the other answers, in particular Arch Gabriel Wallace is very good. Do note that for his answer to make sense, you have to know how to do the things he’s asking you to do; given that you’re asking here, I’m pretty sure that you don’t know.I’m going to assume the car was working fine, getting the expected mileage, and now suddenly without any notable explanation, is getting bad mileage.Start by checking for leaks. On older cars (by that, I mean really older cars, not like “early 90s) the gas tanks develop rust and can start leaking, sometimes at an alarming rate. I’d be checking that, first, and if there’s a manual fuel control valve (as is common on some European cars) I’d be looking at that too. Then I’d check every inch of the fuel line from the tank outlet to the carb fuel bowl inlet- as rubber ages, it loses elastomers and needs to be replaced, much, much more frequently than is done by most owners. Also check the carb itself for leaks - could be a bad gasket, or a hole in something, or - very commonly - a stuck float which doesn’t shut off fuel flow from the pump when the bowl is full.If you don’t have leaks, then there’s something messed up with the fuel metering.Carbs are evil little mechanical analog computers trying to approximate 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture by guessing volume based on relative pressures as air moves through passages of known size and volume. If one of those passages is blocked, even partially, the approximation goes south, and the ratios go out of whack, and you either burn a lot more, or less fuel.I’d also strongly suggest that you find an exploded parts diagram for your particular carb, and have a good look at that before you dive in. If any of the hundred or so parts aren’t working right, you won’t get the result you’re expecting.Back in the day, carbs were ubiquitous and pretty much everyone knew how to clean, fix, and adjust them. These days? Much harder to find someone competent if you’re having issues.Good luck.
Could this be the carburetor drain screw?
So a couple of weeks a go my Roketa 'Capri Retro' scooter stalled on me. It took me half an hour to figure out that it was leaking fuel from underneath and that there was a screw-type mechanism there which had come lose. After screwing this back in, the bike ran fine for a few days, but then the same thing happened. I repeated my action of tightening the screw and the bike was fine for another week. Then last friday the screw disappeared mid-journey. Needless to say the bike stalled and now gasoline was spurting all over the pavement. A couple of mechanics I took it to told me there was a problem with the carburetor and that i'd need to disassemble the bike to fix it. However, i'm wondering if perhaps its just that the screw which fell out is the carburetor drain screw (normally located directly under the carburetor but here located at the end of the drain pipe.) this is the scooter: http://www.marketscooters.com/capri150.h... this is the user manual (if it helps): http://www.marketscooters.com/Manuals/Ca... If you have any suggestions as to what else might be wrong, please feel free to answer.
Why is my motorcycle carb leaking fuel from bowl hose (not overflow), even when fuel is turned off!?
The bowl hose you speak of is the over flow hose. The hoses on the side are just vent tubes. Inside of the float bowl is a brass tube sticking up. When the gas level in the bowl reaches the top of that tube, it drains out the bowl hose on the bottom. You can see the overflow tube in this picture. Float bowl #5 http://www.powersportspro.com/pages/OemP... When you pinch that hose, the gas has no where to go except into the engine and flood it. The carb doesn't over flow while the engine is running because the gas is running the engine before it has a chance to over flow. You can't get it running now because the engine is probably flooded. Turn off the petcock and open the drain screw on the bottom of the carb. Close the drain screw when the carb is empty. Remove the spark plug. Hold the throttle wide open. Put the transmission in gear. Push start the bike - the cylinder compression will blow any excess gas out the spark plug hole. Install a new spark plug - the old one is probably fouled. To check if the drain screw is leaking, remove the float bowl and fill it up with gas. Here is a procedure to remove the bowl without removing the carb, Loosen the clamps holding the carb to the engine & air box manifolds. Spin the carb sideways. The most common problem of over flowing is the float needle & seat. While the bowl is off, remove the float & needle. Spray carb cleaner into the seat to clean any dirt. Install the needle & float. Spin the carb back to it's normal position with the float bowl off. Open the petcock and lift the float by hand The fuel should stop flowing when the float arm is parallel with the carb/float bowl mating surface. The gas should no longer flow when the floats are above that point. If so, replace the needle & seat and O-ring if it has one.
What should I do if my car's engine is flooded and won't start?
You probably have a carburetor, but flooding can also possibly happen with a fuel-injected vehicle. In either case, provided that it's actually flooded (you can smell the fuel), arrange for some means of recharging your battery just in case. If carbureted, prop the choke open with some object that doesn't obstruct very much of the carburetor's intake and is too large to accidentally drop down through the carburetor into the intake manifold. Hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. Crank the engine, but no longer than twenty seconds at a time without stopping to allow the starter motor to cool off. You may need to keep a battery charger or a set of jumper cables (connected to a running vehicle) connected to the battery to keep it charged while you do this.Your engine should eventually start if you do this. When it does, immediately release the accelerator pedal and "feather" it to keep the engine barely running. If you have a helper, have them remove whatever you used to prop the choke open. If not, wait until the engine is sufficiently warmed up to idle on its own before you remove that object. Replace the air cleaner or air plenum, be sure all loosened or removed fasteners are tightened correctly, disconnect the charger/cables, close the hood. You're good to go.
1996 honda CBR 600 F3... gas leaking issue..?
I would suspect a float needle problem inside a carb. This can cause annoying and hazardous leaks from the carb. You may need to remove the float bowl from the leaky carb and carefully remove the float and needle. Often there is dirt trapped between the needle and it's seat. That allows the fuel to keep flowing into the carb and out the overflow. Sometimes the needle and/or seat are worn. Then replacement of those parts is necessary. In a rare case, I found that the float would not actually "float", so I had to replace the float.
I have a 2006 Honda Rancher and it's leaking gas out of the drain hose in the carburetor. How can I fix this?
The float valve in the carburetor is sticking open. The fuel that is drawn into the engine resides in the bowl of the carburetor. The float valve is in charge of letting more fuel into the bowl from the fuel line when needed. If it gets stuck open (usually due to gummy residue from evaporated gas) the fuel just keeps flowing and overflows the carb. Here's a diagram of a simplified carburetor. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wiki...It may be the face of the valve itself, but most likely it is the pivot. Here's an example and how to assess and fix the problem. It's pretty simple if you are handy. It's worth the $15 to get a rebuild kit. And clean everything very very very well. Don't believe yourself when you tell yourself it's pretty clean and the fuel will dissolve the rest. The fuel cannot dissolve the rest.
What is cause of bowl vent leaking on Mercury outboard carburator?
Yes I think a carburetor kit my rectify your fuel leak problem, there are four possible reasons why the carb is leaking. 1. needle and seat are worn out 2. needle and seat are obstructed with foreign material 3. carb float becomes saturated with fuel or is cracked and fills up with fuel 4. incorrect float setting. Any of these conditions will make the fuel mixture to the engine too rich and load up the engine causing it to stall out. After installing the new kit make sure the carb float is set correctly. Good luck. P.S. Bill you be very careful any fuel vapours under the cowl and a stray spark could give you a unwanted condition called FIRE. Remove the cowling and make sure the engine is well ventilated God forbid if there is a fire it's easier to put out.