How do I choose the correct fan/heatsink for CPU?
Specs: Model ASUS Desktop PC K30BF_M32BF_A_F_K31BF SERIES PROCESSOR: AMD A10- 7800 Radeon R7, 12 Compute Cores 4C + 8G 3.50 GHz RAM: 8 GB 6.95 GB Useable System: 64-bit x64-based processor Window 8.1 I only need to replace the fan, but there are too many types out there. I might replace the heatsink too, since it's a combo. I don't know much about this, so please help me.
Whats the noise levels of a stock AMD CPU fan?
ive got a AMD athlon x3 455 and the cpu fan seems to get pretty loud when system is running something heavy... which is very anoying im trying to get my PC as quite as possible just put a new PSU @ 20-25 DbA, cause my old one was cheap crap that sounded like a lawn mower everytime i turned on my pc... and i replaced my old pc case fan with a 12cm Thermaltake TurboFan @ 17 Dba and ive got a Msi Radeon HD 6850 thats not to loud either... so the only fan that could be making the noise is my CPU fan anyways wondering whats the noise level of a AMD stock CPU fan also, also if you can reccomend a better CPU fan or actualy want to get a new CPU cooler was thinking of Cogage TRUE Spirit-LGA775 / AM2 / AM3 120mm PWM CPU Cooler.
Intel stock cooler, lga1151, how many pins, pwm ?
Yes it should have 4 pins and is pwm. You can adjust the speed curve some but if you want it to be quite get an aftermarket heatsink and a case with good airflow. It's high RPMs which generally make computer fans loud. A heatsink with a 120mm fan like the Coolermaster Hyer 212 Evo can keep the CPU cool at a much lower RPM since that big fan moves more air over a much larger surface area. If you want to keep things even quieter get a large case with a lot of 120mm+ fans. Get the ones rated as quiet as they run at much lower speed. You need more fans to move the same amount of air but the net noise is lower as they move at such low speeds. You can further help this with rubber fan mounts. Fans in the front should act as intakes in the rear as exhaust with the CPU fan pointed towards them. Better yet build a shroud so the hot air is exhausted directly out of the case. Basically you just want the air in the case as cool as possible when it passes over the heatsink. The case I use basically moves a wall of air from the front to the rear of the case. Even with an i5-3570k @4.2Ghz and a GeForce GTX 970 my fans barely ever go over idle speeds when gaming.
What is the difference between 3 and 4 pin fans? And can you control them?
I know that a 4 pin fan has PWM pulse width modulation. The 3 pin fan lacks PWM. But i was under the impression that its impossible to control 3 pin fans with the Bios or special programs withing Windows. I looked at my computer fans and i have 4 fans that are all 3-pin fans. I can control every single one of them manually with a program called Command Center from the MSI website. i know for a fact that i can control all of my fans because they get louder and i can see the rpm on the screen for each separate fan. So my new theory is that 3-pin fans CAN be controlled through the bios and within Windows. BUT a 4-pin fan that has PWM will allow me to have better control over my fan. Is this correct? Because i want to buy a few more fans. I was specifically looking for 4-pin fans. But if 3-pin fans can be controlled then why buy 4-pin fans? Another question. Do the 3 pin fans only control fan speed by changing voltage levels? for example 5v 7v and 12v? That would mean there would be only 3 levels of fan speed on a 3-pin fan. Is this correct?
Is the stock fan sketchy for the Intel i7 7700 (non-K), or will the stock fan be 100% fine and there will be no throttling?
The stock fan for the non-k edition of the i7 7700 will be perfectly fine. The chip will not throttle, in fact, even when turbo boosted (intel’s turbo boost) it will reach higher temperatures but will not thermal throttle. The problem is it will run hot (not hot enough to trigger a throttle unless ran at 100% usage, turbo boosted, for a long period of time, which in that case it will just turn off turbo boost as a form of throttling). Now, even in modern games, with 4 of the threads (out of the 8 possible on that chip with HT) it will never be at 100% usage (even if those 4 threads are at 100%, hypothetically speaking you will only be at a 50% load… “hypothetically” it doesn't exactly work that way entirely). Point is, the only way you will see a full 100% CPU usage on that chip will be when rendering videos or tasks of that sort, meaning the chip will never (rarely depending on the game) be running at 100% for gaming so you won't have to worry about it, plus that chip, if anything, would be slows down by the GPU Before it hit 100% in a game! Hope this helped you out, some of my information could be looked at professionally as slightly inaccurate however I'm trying to explain this so someone who is less educated can easily understand.
Can you install separate case fans on a CPU liquid cooler radiator?
You could definitely do that. If you use an AIO, chances are, there is software that allows you to control the PWM fans that come stock with the AIO, so if you replace the 4 pin stock radiator fans with 3 pin fans, you lose the ability to control the speed of those fans. So they’ll spin at 100% speed and be really loud. However, if you do replace the stock fans with aftermarket 4 pin PWM fans, you retain the ability to control the speed of those fans through software because, well fans! How simple can they get? You could probably mix and match fans as well. Just make sure that they are the same size as the fans that came stock with the radiator.
What is the best way to stop my heat-inefficient and small desktop computers from overheating in the summer?
A great heatsink and quiet efficient fans make CPU’s very happy.I get a lot of calls of folks who’s liquid cooled machines have sprung a leak and now they have a paperweight instead of a functioning computer. Air cooling is just as efficient as liquid, but of course liquid looks better if you have a open view case.Small cases and laptops will always be a heat problem if their isn’t enough air flow and a proper heatsink drawing bacon frying heat away from the CPU. The inside of a cheap laptop is the worst for hard drives and memory. YOu get a lot of hard drive and memory failures due to excessive heat. Even a small desktop will have more space for air to move, so adding an exhaust fan or replacing the one you have with a better one will do the trick and save you some green stuff. If your case has space for more fans you could try installing more, like an intake fan in front is there isn’t one.You want the cool air being drawn into the case to be enough to cool your components and the back exhaust fans efficient enough to draw the warm air out the case. I’m a fan of Noctua fans (very quiet, kind of a luxury purchase though), but any decent brand quiet running fan will do the trick. You can change the RPMs to whatever you like via motherboard settings (if its a custom build with a reputable motherboard) or if the brand of fan you purchased is a good one you can use the provided RPM speed adjusters that plug in between the power supply and the fan to reduce the speed.Amazon.com: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan: Electronics15 Case Fans Tested: Ultimate 140 mm Roundup - Overclockers
How good is this desktop ibuypower build?
Dump the GPU and sound reduction, get a decent CPU cooler and wait for the Kepler powered GTX 660, don't skimp on the PSU, a 128 GB SSD for the OS would be great. Buy or build today with a future proofing plan, and you won't have buyers remorse tomorrow. To keep the cost down don't get everything all at once just get good future proofing components and add peripherals to your rig as needed. Your Intel 22nm Trigate Cor i5-3570K Processor deserves it. Thermaltake WATER2.0 Pro Closed-Loop All In One Liquid CPU Cooler Dual 120mm PWM Fans 120x49mm Radiator CLW0216 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as... GeForce GTX 660 Ti specs leaked, beats expectations AMD and NVIDIA are ready to enter a new round of competition this fall with NVIDIA releasing more budget-oriented models of its highly successful Kepler family. The first in the line will be the GeForce GTX 660 Ti, expected later this month. While the card has been kept a secret the folks at TweakTown somehow laid their hands on one and the specs and performance really outshined everything expected so far. Starting with the specs the reviewed GeForce GTX 660 Ti came with an unknown Kepler core running at 915 MHz in default mode and at 980 MHz in Turbo Mode. The core featured 1344 stream processors, up from the expected 1152 CUDA cores – which is definitely good news! The on-board 2 GB GDDR5 memory was accessed, however, via a 192-bit bus, making for 144.2 GB/sec of bandwidth. It’s worth mentioning that the GDDR5 memory worked at 6008 MHz effective, just like the GTX 670 and GTX 680. And here comes the bad news for AMD and AMD fans – the GeForce GTX 660 Ti easily beat in tests the Radeon HD 7850/HD 7870 and even the HD 7950 and HD 7970 – cards that cost more than the 200 USD that the GTX 660 Ti is expected to cost. This might mean another round of price reductions for AMD graphics cards. Aside from the GeForce GTX 660 Ti, NVIDIA is expected to launch the GeForce GTX 650 in September of this year. The GTX 650 will be based on the GK107 core and will feature 384 stream processors. The card will come with 1 GB of GDDR5 memory accessed via a 128-bit bus. Frequencies are unknown but the GTX 650 will be the same old GeForce GT 640 this time equipped with GDDR5 memory instead of the older GDDR3. Pricing is unknown but the card will cost well below 200 USD. http://www.hitechreview.com/it-products/...
What's the difference between "CPU FAN" socket, "CPU OPT" socket, and a "SYS FAN" socket on motherboard?
Question:What's the difference between "CPU FAN" socket, "CPU OPT" socket, and a "SYS FAN" socket on motherboard?The CPU FAN header is exactly what it says. A typical PC would have a single CPU and a heatsink mounted on top of it with a fan. That is where you would plug in the fan. The reason why that header is important is because it will detect whether your fan is running are not. If it detects the fan is not running or not running properly, it will shut down your system (or refused to start your system) to protect your CPU from overheating.The CPU OPT stands for CPU optional. Typically, this is the header that you would use to connect some type of wiring for a liquid cooling system. For example, I have two pumps running my liquid cooling (two separate loops). Each one of these pumps has a single wire that I can plug into the CPU OPT header. Although I don’t use this feature because I want my cooling pumps to run at full speed. However if I decided to plug those connectors into the motherboard, it would probably allow me to control the speed of the pumps from the motherboard which brings me back to the CPU FAN.Most gaming motherboards will allow you to control the speed of the heatsink fan that is connected to the CPU FAN header. The reason for this is that if you are not using the computer under heavy load, you can reduce the speed of the fan and therefore reduce the amount of noise coming from your system.There is more than one name for SYS FAN. Asus refers to them as chassis fans or CHA-FAN. I have heard of other motherboards refer to them as case fans. Regardless of what name you call it, these are the headers you use to plug in the fans that are used to cool your enclosure or case.As motherboards become more sophisticated, the headers on the motherboard take on more specialization. I just recently purchased the latest 270 motherboard, an Asus Maximus IX Formula. In addition to CPU_FAN, CPU_OPT, and 3 CHA_FAN headers, it also has the following:You will notice that all of the headers are 12 W and 1 A except for the W_PUMP+ and the H_AMP which are 36 W and 3 A. You can control the speed of all of them from the motherboard except for the AIO_PUMP+ and the W_PUMP+.
My motherboard doesn't support as many fans as I have, because it sucks. Can I power my extra fans without connecting to the motherboard?
Yes, you can. In fact, there are a number of ways to do so.First, if you know the power ratings of your fans and of your motherboard, you may be able to use a splitter such as the Rosewill Case Fan PWM Cable Splitter.Such a splitter connects two or more fans to a single fan header on the motherboard. In order to use one, you must make certain that the total amount of current which a motherboard fan header can provide is greater than the sum of the currents needed for all of the fans you want to connect through a splitter. I am personally driving two sets of two 140mm Magnetic Levitation Bearing fans through splitters from my motherboard.Alternatively, you can connect a power adapter cable such as the Cables to Go 27078 3-Pin Fan to 4-Pin Pass-Through Power Adapter Cableor the CRJ SATA to 3 x 4-Pin PWM Sleeved Fan Power Adapter Cable.These cables connect to either a Molex or unused SATA power connector from your power supply. SATA cables can generally provide more current, so can generally power more fans.Another option is to use a USB power fan adapter such as this one: USB to 3/4-Pin PWM 5V USB Sleeved Fan Power Adapter Cable.The drawback to this device is that it only provides +5V instead of the +12V that fans normally use, making them run slower, move less air, but also be quieter than normal.You can also use an internal fan hub. This is a box that several fans can plug into which gets its power from either Molex or SATA cables connected to your power supply. An example would be the SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System.This one allows a total of eight fans to be plugged in.Finally, you could use any of several different fan controllers, such as the Kingwin 5 Channel Fan Controller w/ Individual LEDs.pr the Sentry 3 5.4'' Touch Screen Fan Controller.These type of devices usually go into either an otherwise empty 3.5″ or 5.25″ drive bay in your case, provide power to multiple fans, and let you individually vary the speed of each fan. There are also combination bay devices which have fan controllers, memory card readers, USB hubs, and other such things all in a single bay. such as the Kingwin Multi-Function Bay Controller.Which of these is more appropriate for you depends on your exact needs and desires. In general, though, they are all about equal in what they will provide you, so it ultimately becomes just a person choice of which solution you think is more elegant to you.