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Having Checked The Brake Switch Thou It

How to remove break light switch on holden commadore vt?

I need to replace the break light switch on my holden commodore vt (1999) but I can't remove it. First, I can barely get to it and when the edge of my fingers get there, i can't seem to remove it. Anyone got any steps to removing it?

Thanks.

Will a 92 mustang cobra body kit fit on a mustang 92 lx? ?

YES. it will, all bumper attachment point, 2 in front, on each side, 12 in rear, 4 on sides, four on bottom, are in the exact same location. same thing with the side valences. however, you will have to run power to the fog lights in the cobra front bumper. since the lx doest have fog lights, you will have to either order the fog light wiring harness, along with passenger compartment switch ( the wiring for the switch is already in the main vehicle harness), or simply run your own circuit off an existing one. its fairly easy, just pick up a 12v switched ground toggle switch, find an wire that is hot with the ignition on, tap it, and run the wiring to the fog lights.
i have a 99 mustang, and i ran constant power to my fog lights so i could switch them on without the headlights on (and they stay on with the high beams too). i did this by tapping into the convertible motor harness, which all mustangs have, regardless of being convertible or not. check a google search to see if 92 fox bodies have this provision as well. if so, voila, you can tap that for power to your fogs, as it is a 30 amp circuit, so it can safely power two bulbs...
otherwise you could just not install fog lights, and run brake cooling ducts from the holes in the front bumper to your front brakes...

also, word for the wise, a lot of cheap aftermarket kits do not come with their own mounting hardware, requiring you to fabricate your own. if you order oem ford bumper covers, (the actual part of the bumper that you see, you dont need new crash supports), they come with the mounting brackets installed, all you do is unscrew the nuts off of your old bumper brackets, remove the bumper, and install the new bumper covers using the same nuts. there are studs in the mountign brackets.
and you would need new rear taillights and the correct rims to truly convert over to a cobra, but you would have to tell everyone your car is a 93, cuz they didnt make a cobra in 92...but once again, all the parts will bolt right up, 100% positive, good luck man!

Check engine light turns on and off periodically?

I have a 2001 Volkswagen jetta v6 when I got it checked in one car shop they wanted to charge almost 3000 dollars because they said the catalictic converter was bad that the wires where bad..I wanted a secound opinion so I took it to a different shop and right when I took it there it turned off...the mechanic checked everything and said the converter was fine ..he did an oil change and my car did feel better...but the check engine light did turn on again days later....I'm worried but my mom (previous owner of my car...it was a gift ) said the car is fine that it always did that...now I feel like there is something wrong but I definetly don't know or have 3000 dollars to fix it....I'm driving 6 hours to my college in a couple days but I'm insecure how long my car will last if I keep driving it with the check engine light on...everyone says I'm being paranoid but idk....before all this my car did vibrate for maybe a couple secounds occasionally At a red light...idk if I'm wrong for being so worried...

Someone please help me i have a vibration through the steering wheel and a clunking noise noe coming from the?

How bad is the vibration and how loud is the clunk and how often does it happen.

It sounds like something in the steering linkage, but in a 1996 vehicle, you have to accept a few things that don't act 100 percent but really do not need fixing.

A good way of not getting ripped of is not to have anything fixed until it starts acting up or give out. My cousin the mechanic in the U.S. Marine motor pool is always harping on the fact that car owners are being ripped off because they get what he calls "by and by, pie in the sky repairs" recommended by mechanics. His motto is if the car runs, don't sweat it until the "whatever" gives out.

His second commandment is "Thou shall always get a second opinion or even a third before going through an expensive repair."

A twelve year old vehicle is going to have problems, but if you have have owned it for several years free and clear, and those are the only repairs you have needed, then the SUV is a keeper.

Lastly a good mechanic will look it over for you for an assessment for about $100.00 and tell you what may and what likely will not give out in the next year or so. The mechanic to look for is one who says right at the beginning is that all he will do is give you a report and not encourage you to do any repairs at his shop after the examination is completed.

So if six months later a different mechanic says the something joint is all worn out, you can look it up on your assessment and if isn't ticked off in the "yellow" column with an explanation at the bottom on your report, then you can move on and find a more honorable mechanic and be fairly certain you don't need the $800.00 repair he says you do.

If my wheel bearings were bad wouldnt the abs light come on since it did once before over a year ago when....?

Hello, i am having an issue with the front tire feeling like its wobbling. It makes more noise when i turn the wheel to the right, the guy at pep boys said the left side felt like it had play in it, but we feel it more on the passenger side, anyways, if my bearings were bad wouldnt the abs light cone on, because over a year ago i had them replaced, i believe with the cheaper ones from a shop and the abs lights were on that time. Im thinking its possible that it could be just a bad tire cause the tire is kinda bald and old ehich i plan on replacing this weekend, and also my rotors are pretty old and bad which i also am replacing probably tomorrow or this weekend , i have them in my trunk. I went and bought two front bearings for it thinking that was the problem but now im wondering , "why isnt the abs light on the dashboard coming on if they are, i even had a diagnostic test done last week when i got my cat, oil switch and something with my IAT sensor fixed and it didnt show up on there either. So, my question i guess is, could it just be a tire and rotor problem that is making the wheel feel like its wobbling off the car, but doesnt do it all the time, usually happens either after i drive for awhile or when at higher speeds, if i turn to the left it doesnt do it as much or at all but to the right it does more and mainly. Please help me someone. Thanks for anyone that gives me some incite or solutions, i would greatly appreciate it, its drving me nutts especially after so much money i put into this car already. Oh yah, i also think my alignment is bad too which im getting fixed this weekend too because my front tire is bald on the corners but not as much in the middle and a tire guy said that could be to do with my alignment which i do kinda agree with being that the steering wheel sometimes shakes when im driving too. Thanks everyone for your time. Sincerely Roy

Will operating a microwave oven while empty damage the equipment?

The answer is most certainly yes. It won't happen in the first 30 seconds, it won't happen in the first minute. Typically you can even run a microwave for 2-3 minutes, sometimes longer while empty (no load) and it will be fine.This is what happens when you run it without a load. At first, everything is fine because the cavity, the door, the tray (or shelf) absorb the excess energy. Things will start to get hot, but it's not critical yet. After a few minutes, something will start to get really hot and the excess energy? It starts reflecting back into the magnetron (the device that provides the microwave energy) and that starts to heat up too. If it is designed well enough, it will trip a thermal fuse before anything actually breaks. The thermal fuse can be resettable, but usually not. You will need to replace this fuse if the oven no longer works.If the oven is designed poorly, you'll experience what is called "thermal runaway". At this point, some random location in the oven will begin to superheat. And by super heat, I mean hot enough to liquefy porcelain. This will continue until something finally gives out. It could be a breaker tripping, a standard fuse blowing, or in the worst case, the insulation on the wiring or the plastic components might literally burst into flames consuming everything flammable until the oven finally loses power.