How do I jump my remote wire to my power wire?
My amp stopped working the other day so I took it to the shop so they could look at it, and it working perfectly fine. So its obviously my wiring. When I was at the shop the guy told me i could jump my power wire to my remote wire.. what does that mean and exactly how would i do it? Also some very important information: my car came with a stupid "Pre-amp" and originally i had to splice the new remote wire for my amplifier to the old one for my pre-amp. It worked fine till one day it just stopped. And if i cut my pre-amp remote wire then my regular 4 speakers will not work.. but the guy in the shop said i could jump my remote to my power wire. and explanation on how to do that? summarized: amp wont turn on, fella said i can jump my power wire to my remote wire, how?
Where does a car stereo antenna trigger wire connect to on a new cd player?
I have installed a cd player into my car. Everything works beside the Fm/am, I plugged in the antenna wire, but I have no idea where the antenna trigger wire connects to, the factory harness was cut, so i could not buy an aftermarket harness.
Extra wires left in my car stereo installation kit?
You were right about the power antennae wire, if you don't have a power antennae don't worry about it. The dimmer wire is rarely ever used in an aftermarket stereo installation so don't worry about it not being used. Just wrap some electrical tape around the end of the wire to avoid possible shorting issues. And for the last part, description is what you go buy. Although most of the time, the wires match up color to color, sometimes they do not, so double check all the connections (match up the proper descriptions), make sure every connection is solid (I prefer to solder all of my connections), and properly insulate all the connections with an adequate amount of electrical tape. Very easy to do for the average, competent do-it-yourself er . Take your time and do it right the first time. Good luck
What is a blue ANT REM wire for?
Yes it is for powered antennas, but it also depends on the car the radio is going in. Some vehicles have amplified antennas (most newer subarus, and 99.5+ VW and Audis, among others). Connecting this lead sends a 12volt signal to the amplifier in the antenna, boosting reception. Not hooking this wire up in certain amplified antenna equipped vehicles will dramatically reduce reception.
Will my car stereo work if I didn't connect the antenna?
For playing tapes, CDs or MP3s (depending on the technology used) then yes. It is likely that the radio will not lock onto any stations unless they are very close indeed.Virtually every car stereo today uses a multipin ISO connector for power, ground, power antenna and amp switching, with a second connector for the speakers.In days of old, I do recall older radio-cassette units, and even plain old radios that only had connections for the speakers and a switched ignition feed. The ground connection for the radio was through the metal chassis or via the antenna. You either need to add an additional ground wire from the radio case to the chassis, or rely on the grounding from the antenna jack.This posed a problem for me when I fitted a modern radio cassette player (ok, this was perhaps ten years ago) to a 1956 vintage Morris Minor with a positive earth electrical system. Fitting the radio into an insulated (and isolated) mount was not a problem, nor was routing a pair of wires for the electrical feed, but had I used a conventional antenna, the positive ground antenna would have shorted out the negative ground radio, blowing the fuse.The solution was an isolated dipole antenna with built in pre-amp that stuck to the inside of the windscreen. Alternatively, my friend could have enjoyed her cassettes but would not be able to listen to the radio!
Installing a new radio in 2001 Chevy Cavalier - Need help with connecting 12v ignition/switch power wire?
2001 Chevrolet Cavalier Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Ignition Switch (The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire from the Ignition Switch.) Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Pink Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Front Speakers Size: N/A Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green Rear Speakers Size: N/A Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
I have a passtime that can disable my car i need help on how to take it out?
Find the passtime device , it's usually under the dash near the ignition switch. You can trace it by following the wire from the remote eye. There are 5 wires with a plug connector plugged into the device. Leave the red, pink and black wires alone. The blue wire comes from your ignition switch and goes to a relay switch inside the device. The purple wire comes from that switch to your starter. Leave them cut from the device, but solder, (or connect in some manner) them together so that the passtime device is bypassed. Then your starter will get power when you turn the key. That's all there is to it. the passtime device will still appear to be functioning. It will beep and take codes from the remote, but regardless of whether it is timed out or not your starter will still get power.
I installed an aftermarket stereo into my truck and I used a wiring harness. The stereo turns on but there isn't any sound coming out. What could be the problem?
How are you certain that all the wires are connected properly? There are really only three variables here: The source, the wires/connections and the speakers. If you can confidently rule out the connections - properly routed, soldered, grounded - and the wires themselves - no shorts, not grounding out - then either your source is not putting out a signal or your speakers are not reproducing sound from the signal. On your source, make sure it it not muted, and that there is a signal from something (tuner, CD, MP3, other input). I would try connecting a pair of speakers directly to the outputs from the source - no wiring harness, no routing through the bodywork of the car. If that checks out, hook up some 12volt audio source directly to each speaker where it is installed (door, kick panel, trunk, dash). Unless your source is faulty, I'm betting there is a wiring problem. Speakers don't often fail completely.
Do you have a car stereo installation gone wrong story?
I once fitted a stereo to a 1956 Morris Minor belonging to a friend. I knew the chassis was positive earth, so fitted the unit into an insulated plastic console. I fitted rear parcel shelf speakers, ran the wiring under the carpet and hooked the electrical feed up to the ignition switch and battery using correct fuseholders and Lucar connectors.Cassettes played absolutely fine, the system sounded good and all was well in the world. I set the clock to the correct time and tweaked the equaliser settings to my friend’s liking.The next thing she asked me was to tune in several of her favourite radio stations and program them into the memory presets. Radio 1 on button 1, Radio 2 on button 2, Radio 4 on button 4. Presets 3, 6 and 6 were to be allocated to a few local commercial stations as she wasn’t really a classical buff so had no need for Radio 3.Hold up. No antenna!I had a spare manual telescopic antenna but didn’t want to drill the front wing and spoil what was a ‘classic car’, so I temporarily hooked the antenna up just to test the radio. I lashed the antenna base to ground at a convenient point on the metalwork, and then plugged the antenna into the stereo. Bang! Popped fuse.It took me nearly a whole packet of fuses and a lot of head scratching until I twigged that the antenna was ‘grounded’ to the positive chassis and the casing of the radio was connected directly to negative. Plugging in the antenna jack shorted out the supply lines.Problem solved by fitting an isolated screen-mounted dipole antenna behind the rear view mirror.A few years later I was asked to fit a radio for another friend into a similar car of similar vintage. I repeated my previous installation, step for step, wiring the positive feeds to the chassis of the car and running the isolated negative back to the battery. Bang! This time a fuse blew but not before the stereo had produced some smoke.Some non-purist had ‘restored’ the car at some point, but instead of retaining the original positive earth system with dynamo, had fitted a negative earth alternator and repolarised the starter motor. It was now a conventional negative earth vehicle!S***, as they say, happens!