Why do my knitting stitches look different?
I think I see what you mean. I often use a garter stitch as a border on baby blankets or throws. When I get to the border at the end of the piece, I always start the garter stitch on the wrong side. That way, you have the purl stitches showing next to the last row on the right side. It looks like you started the garter stitch border on the right side of your piece, which is why you have the knit side of the garter stitch border next to the last row of the finished piece. I think you might find the border looking more orderly if you try starting the garter stitch border on the wrong side.Also, when I bind off the border, I bind it off on the wrong side. It seems to make a better finish on the edge. If that means you would have too many rows by binding off on the wrong side, you could always bind off on the right side, but do it with a purl-wise bind off. It’s kind of a pain, because you have to switch back and forth with the yarn to make a purl stitch. How you would do it (in case you don’t know) is, purl 2 stitches, put the yarn in back as if you were going to knit, then pull the first stitch over the second. Bring the yarn to the front and purl another stitch and repeat. Again, it makes for a smoother looking edge and is more flexible.I hope this helps.
What can I do to avoid hand pain from knitting?
This happens to me when I go on “knitting benders” where I’ll knit for hours at a time.There are a lot of things that I do in order to stop the hand pain. What it usually is is a combination of my hands getting tired and my arthritis kicking in. Here is my process for stopping hand pain:Take breaks. This can be hard, especially when you are obsessed with a project and keep saying “One more row”. I seem to think I always have time for one more row. Learn to put the needles down for 5 minutes at a time.Stretch your hands by opening your fingers and then trying to make your fingers “longer”. It stretches out your palm and will help relax the rest of your hand as well.Decrease the fatigue in your fingers by rapidly touching your fingertips to your thumbs.There is also a brand of knitting and crocheting “gloves” that help prevent hand fatigue. I don’t remember the name, but I’ve seen them in Hobby Lobby and Michael’s.Don’t do more than you can do in one sitting. Its tempting to knit non-stop until the project is done, but it isn’t usually a great idea for your hands.Also, the more you knit, the stronger and more resilient your hands will get. Think of it as a workout for your fingers. It does take some time to build up the muscles, to loosen the ligaments and to properly lubricate the joints. Don’t push too hard, but definitely challenge your hands a bit.
How do i reverse shaping on a knitting pattern for a cardigan?
Usually one knits the BACK first. When you knit the back, you knit the bottom border, then the body of the sweater. When you get to the armhole shaping, the instructions say something like "cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows." After you cast off, you use a ssk or a k2tog at each side every other row or every 4th row or every howmany rows to make the armholes slant. Okay, to make the fronts of the cardigan, cast on the stitches for one side with one ball of yarn and for the other side with a second ball of yarn. Knit the first row of the bottom border for the first side, drop the yarn, pick up the yarn for the other side, and knit the first row of the bottom border for that side. Continue doing one row per side until you have completed the bottom border. Then do the body of the cardigan the same way. When you get to the armhole shaping, follow the same pattern as you did for the back--except that you drop the first yarn and pick up the second yarn in the middle to keep the two sides separated. When the instructions say to cast off for the armhole, do it the same way: Cast off x# stitches at the beginning of the next however many rows per the instructions. Then complete the slant shaping by putting the shaping at each side of the row. The ONLY difference between shaping the front and shaping the back is that you drop the yarn for one side at the center and pick up the yarn for the other side to keep the two sides separated. When you get to the neckline shaping, it will be done on the centerline--where the sweater is already separated. Make the same decreases on the left side and on the right side--each side of the centerline.
I am confused with knittting again.?
The first row is a "wrong side" row. It will be INSIDE the project when you finish it. You will repeat the 1st row for the 3rd row, the 5th row, the 7th row, the 9th row, and so on until you get to another instruction set. 2nd row: K2, p 1, k 1 - the border stitches *K2, yfwd, k2tog, - Knit 2, bring the yarn forward betyween the needle tips and over the working needle to the back, knit 2 stitches together. The "yfwd" or yarn forward will create a hole and add a stitch. The "k2tog" or knit 2 together will decrease a stitch. The two together--yfwd and k2tog--will create a lacy hole without changing the stitch count. *to last 4 sts, - Repeat the K2, yfwd, k2tog until you have only 4 stitches left in the row. k1, p1, k2 - the border stitches If you're working with a UK pattern, there are 4 ways you might see noted to create a lacy hole in the fabric by adding a stitch. yfwd - yarn forward--from a knit stitch, bring the yarn forward between the two needle tips. When you knit the next stitch, you will have yarn over the working needle, thus forming a hole and a new stitch. yrn - yarn round needle--from a purl stitch, you bring the yarn over the working needle and back through the space between the needle tips to purl the next stitch. yon - yarn over needle--from a purl stitch, you take the yarn over the working needle and then knit the next stitch. yfrn - yarn forward round needle--from a knit stitch, bring the yarn forward between the two needle tips, wrap it around the working needle, and bring it forward through the needle tips again to purl the next stitch. If you are in the US, the abbreviation is "yo" or "YO" and it means "yarn over." US directions disregard the starting and ending points and let you figure out where the stitch starts and ends.
How do you do a short row of knitting in rib?
I'd skip the wraps and use Japanese short rows instead. No wraps to hide. http://nonaknits.typepad.com/nonaknits/2... http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2009/10... When you first start doing Japanese short rows, I recommend using turning pins. Japanese short rows look better than wrapped short rows even in stockinette. It's just harder to convince people to try them because they look harder than they actually are. I teach Japanese short rows with pins now instead of wrapped short rows for my sock classes and my students do just fine with them.
What's your best knitting tip?
A few faves, in no particular order:Wind hanks/skeins into balls before you start knitting, otherwise you will have a mess.Look closely and you will see that a long-tail cast-on is actually a single "e" (aka backward loop) cast-on with a row of knitting attached. Thus, if you're knitting something that is primarily stockinette without a ribbed edge or cuff or to which you will add an edging later, you will actually be starting your pattern on a wrong-side row. So, the first row you work after casting on will be purl, unless you WANT to start with a garter edge for a row or two or a few, which will incidentally help to keep the edge from curling up.If you like to do a 1x1 rib on cuffs or sweater edges or a hat band, learn to do a tubular cast-on (here’s one example video: Long Tail Tubular Cast On) also called an Italian cast-on. You'll love the finished look!Always make a photocopy of your pattern to write notes and any changes or adjustments you make in case it turns out well and you want to do it again exactly the same way. Also, highlight or use check marks as you go so if you put the project down for a long time, you can remember where you left off.CHECK YOUR GAUGE! Repeatedly and often throughout the project. Not just at the beginning. You never know how time or environmental factors can affect your tension between knitting sessions.If your tension tends toward the tight side, as you're holding your left-hand needle against the palm with your pinky and ring finger, use your thumb and middle finger to pull down on the fabric immediately below the stitch you're about to knit. It will make more space for you to insert your right needle. Even if you're not a tight knitter, this technique is helpful if you're purling through the back loop, or worse, P2tog through the back loops!If you're a tight knitter who wants to loosen up, think to yourself the word "relax" or "loose" over and over in your head as you knit. It works!
What does "turn" mean in a knitting pattern?
What this means is that you turn the work as if you had come to the end of the row. The effect of this is that you knit backwards and forwards in the middle part of what you have been knitting instead of working all the way to the end. A typical example of this is when you make the heel in a sock; you want the sock to have a curve to fit the heel, rather than be just straight, flat knitting.