Help..inch gap between kitchen floor and kickboard?
hi, i bought a kitchen which was fitted very well, but, the units had to be level with the appliances, one of which was a quite large washing machine, this meant when fitted, the kickboard didn't reach the floor by about an inch. could you recommend what to close this gap with? thank you in advance mags
How do I fill gaps between the wall and natural wood baseboards?
This is not an easy answer. Plan A. First completely finish your baseboards- stain and varnish. Then try to nail your baseboard tight to the wall, the best is to use brad nail gun. Hopefully it`s tight enough and you don`t need to caulk it. But if you see unwanted gaps and not happy about it... plan B. Use green masking tape, tape it to the baseboards exposing approximately 1/16" of the wood. Use scissors to make nice straight cuts to fit exactly in the interior corners. Get white latex caulking of good density, cut the nozzle on the angle, caulk along the tops and wipe it immediately with a wet finger or cloth. Don`t leave any excess. In a few hours paint over with your wall paint and peel masking tape right away. That should leave you a crisp straight line between wall and baseboard. This technique also works on the window and door trim. Please note that if your wood trim has some loose (breathing) sections, the caulking will separate in the future.
My home's pine flooring has large gaps in between some of the planks, especially in the kitchen. What can be done to fill or seal them?
It can be helped a lot, depending on how much perfection you want visually, and how much you want to seal the floors against cold temperatures. I own some properties with hardwood floors and did this -- use a powerful vacuum to pull as much stuff out of the cracks, apply just enough filler to close off draughts. You don't want the filler to be flush with the hardwood surface, but below it just enough that it can be hidden. Stain the filler. It won't be noticeable except for the most critical eye.I'm assuming pier and beam foundation in good shape. In rooms other than the kitchen, good area rugs look nice over hardwood and will further protect against the cold. If lots of gaps are wider than 1/4 inch, then you'd need to re-floor. As the house settles, the cracks may reappear.
What to use to fill in gaps between boards on a deck?
I am preparing my upper deck for sealing and painting. It is very old wood and staining is not an option. I want to fill in all gaps between the boards. Some are as wide as the shaft of a screwdriver, & some are barely the width of a putty knife, with some boards not having a uniform distance between that & the next. I had had a carpet on the upper deck to help shelter the deck below, but that has proven to be detrimental to the upper deck. The exposed spaces fill up very quickly wth dirt and pollen. Then I thought, if there were some type of "caulk" that I can use to seal the spaces prior to sealing & painting, so that I can shelter the lower deck & make the upper deck about a million times easier to clean. Have I come up with an ingenious idea? If it sounds okay, what kind of "caulk" I should use that I can smooth down so it won't be bumpy when it's dry and that would be waterproof and form a good seal, and can then be painted over with an acrylic latex sealer and paint?
How many tiles will be required to cover my floor whose length is 4 metres and breadth is 3 metres and each tile is a square side of 20 cms?
Area of floor = 4×3 = 12 sqmTile each side is 20 cm = 0.20mArea of tiles is 0.20×0.20 =0.04 sqmNo of tiles = 12/0.04 = 300 nos
What is thicker 3/8 1/2 or 3/4 inch?
Put them all over eight and you can see for yourself - 3, 4 or 6
How many 3 inch diameter cupcakes can I fit on a 16 inch tray and on a 12 inch tray?
This is actually a real question. I have 150 cupcakes, and I'm trying to figure out how many trays of each in need to have to hold them all. Obviously we need to have "whole cupcakes" and account for the white space between the cupcakes since they are round and don't pack perfectly.
Okay to use wood putty to replace large gaps between wood?
cyrus_xi, Since, as you said, the flush side of the shelf has been glued. So at this point, unless you're willing to tear out the shelf, you're bound to a certain number of ways to fix the problem. I personally would have had the home depot provide me with another plank, cut to my specks correctly... Barring this, since you are painting it, you could have squared off the end of the board by about 1/4"...then positioned a small piece of wood to the end that is square, 1/4" long and 3/4" thick and 6" long. sand smooth, and after painting it would have been invisible. However, if you're at the point where it's nailed in place, you're probably going to have to deal with the gap. First, you have to make sure the plank is securely fashioned to where it will not "dip" in the middle or bow or bend when weight is placed upon it...otherwise, the filler will surely crack. Books are infamous for making shelves bow. Actually, an 1/8" is not a very large gap. There are many wood putty and fillers on the market and some are just plain junk. The solvent-based putties will crack before others will. You probably need something that's a bit flexible. Maybe something silicone-based. I have a set of colored wood putties and would recommend something along these lines. If you're going to paint with a brush, the paint may smear on this type of putty, so spraying would be the best way to apply paint over the area. If that's not an option, use a small painter's brush to apply over the putty. This will reduce the pressure being applied to the putty. I would also add small pieces of wood chips into the gap to reduce the amount of "soft" space. Try to use pieces that are 3/4" thick. The additional wood will reduce the amount of putty and better solidify the area. It will further prevent cracks by supporting any movement on the shelf. Remember to over-fill the gap and then sand smooth. You also have the option of using a small piece of molding to cover the gap. Place molding on both sides of the shelf and maybe even the back for uniformity. Then no putty is required. Above all else, remember that paint will not "hide" mistakes..don't assume a sloppy job will be covered by paint. Bad work only looks worse after it's painted. good luck
What is standard residential wall thickness?
In the United States, where residential walls are often framed with nominal lumber, typical interior partitions are 2x4's (which are 3 1/2" deep) and are faced with 1/2" gypsum board on each side, the typical wall thickness is 4 1/2". Plumbing walls are often framed with 2x6's making them 6 1/2" thick. Exterior walls usually have an exterior finish material such as brick (add about 3 1/2") or maybe stucco (add about an inch) or some type siding (wood, aluminum or vinyl will add about an inch) to the framing numbers previously mentioned. These days exterior walls are usually 2x6's to allow enough room for insulation. Light commercial buildings may be framed with metal studs which are typically 3 5/8" or structural metal studs that come in 2" increments (4", 6", 8", etc.) plus the thickness of the finishes. Gypsum board will typically be 5/8" on each side in order to achieve a fire rating.Slightly heavier construction may use concrete block exterior walls that are typically nominally 8" or 12" thick plus finishes. Often exterior block walls will have metal studs with gyp board on the interior face of the wall for insulation and to run electrical lines, making them about a foot thick plus the exterior finish.It is common that industrial buildings will use concrete exterior walls with only paint as a finish. If they are cast in place vertically they may be 10 to 12" thick. If they are cast horizontally and tilted into place, they will be 6 to 8 inches thick. Adobe walls can be 2 to 3 feet thick. Al.l these answers are for one or two story buildings. Taller buildings may have much thicker walls. There are many variables, but this is a simple answer to your question.